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Cut and sanded now do I stain or paint. If paint do I do black for a silhouette or pastels. Decisions, Decisions, Decisions! lol Thanks to Grampa (Paul) for the great pattern. I truly appreciate your help.

Just finished. Pattern by the Village’s H. Botas.

I finally convinced my doctor that I would be careful going down to my shop, and he convinced my CEO that I could try to scroll again. This piece was made for a very special lady in our lives, she was an Emergency Room nurse for 40 years and her greatest joy was helping anyone. Unfortunately, she succumbed to cancer a while back and we have finally had a chance to honor her. Her usband has her cremains at home on a dresser that she used, so I cut this stand for him to put the urn on. The ladies name was Roseanne and she loved roses, the cross is cut from bloodwood and the base is suger maple, I finished the piece with WATCO oil. Thanks for looking. I have posted this on 2 other sites, sorry if you looked twice.

One other point that I would like to mention that can throw your picture framing production off is the saw being used as well as the blade choice. First the saw used, weather it is a tablesaw, a mitersaw either electric or hand operated, the blade must be 90 degrees to the table. Any amount of cantor in the blade, one way or other, will throw the 45 degree cut off. Next you would like to use a blade that has alot of teeth and this prevents splintering. I like to use at least a 60 tooth blade. You want a clean and sharp blade. If you use one with alot of pitch on it, it too can throw the cut off. Lastly the blade used depends on your quality of saw. Also the material and size of stock used. If you are using a thin kerf blade as most people do, it can have a tendency of flexing especially if cutting hardwoods such as red and or white oak. A full kerf 1/8" blade is a better choice. Cut slow through your stock and do not force it especially if using a thin kerf blade for this will flex the blade. Any small deflection from the points made in this thread can affect the look of the miters. Remember for each cut it multiplies the errors. Just some of my thoughts.

I would like to make a point about this method. If you are using flat stock and want to stack cut you can probably get away with it, but if you are using anything with fancy routed designs or if the profile of the stock is tapered then do not stack because the 45 degree cut will not be true. Your frame pieces must be flat on the saw when cutting. Best to cut one at a time. Just my opinion. This practice is carried over when doing moldings around doors and windows.

^^^^^^^^^THIS^^^^^^^^^ Don't have anything to add, just re-posting for emphasis.

Thank you for the kind words! They are roughly 17" round. I only do high schools, as most are not trademarked.

If I may make a suggestion. Never work with measurements when cutting sides. Work with a jig that has stop blocks. If you place your blank against the stop blocks they have to be the same length. If you use pencil marks and try to line up to blade you can be off just enough to throw measurements off. There are many jigs on the net to show. And of course that 45 degree cut needs to be accurate also. Good luck.

Been busy at the scroll saw this month scrolling grandpa's patterns of our seven Min Pins past & present. Now it's time to take a break and give my old back some needed rest.

I'm an engineer living in San Francisco, CA, and I've taken up carving, scrollsaw and intarsia over the last couple of years. It's very nice to meet you all, I look forward to seeing your work and getting tips and advice! Glenn

A couple of cool pallet boards made the difference in this simple cutting.

I was in a quandry lately as to a new scroll project. I was wandering through pinterist and came across a train picture I really liked. I had done Alex Fox's pattern and tried my hand on this one. My wife put it into grayscale with Photo Shop and I started eating pixels with MS 3D paint. (too lazy to learn a new program) It took a few days for the design and then off to the copy store. Cutting took about 2 days. I still have put on a finish but it has been too humid to do any spraying. I hope things dry up and cool down soon. 1/8" BBPW on 1/4" backer.

First attempt at making a mitered picture frame. Good miters not quite square!

This is my first Intarsia piece, and yes, it is almost a direct copy of a work I found on-line. For a full descriptive write up see my post in the Intarsia/Segmentation section. Thanks for reading.

Flag stand is made of Walnut (base) and Poplar (design). The base is sprayed with Deft glossy wood finish and design is stained with Minwax cherry and sprayed with Deft semi gloss wood finish. I want to thank Richard at @rafairchild2 for supplying me with the pattern and his help he provided throughout the process of making this. The self sculpture is yours truly with a pattern found on Steve Goods sight. It is made from walnut, oak, poplar, and cherry. Pretty good likeness of me, don't you think. Jerry

I think many problems that we all have are caused by not having properly tuned saws. I have to check mine all the time. It's a job-site saw so it's accuracy will never be "right on".

Good advice, thank you for bringing that up as this is something I've not thought about. I've only made a couple frames and yes they were basic flat boards..

Agree with everyone, you did a beautiful job.

Thank you all for the VERY KIND remarks. I felt like I was meeting an old friend again when I was allowed to go to my shop.

paint it

terrific job

Welcome from Oklahoma!

Very nice work

#ArtisanPirate

Joined 2014 still learning Thanks to you all!

Beautiful work. I'm certain Roseanne is looking down from heaven admiring your work. Jerry

I know I suck at anything like frame making and I'm sure there are many ways of doing it... and doing it better than I do.. My solution to this was I cut the sides by stack cutting them both with the same cut.. same for the ends.. this ensures both are equal length. Having a stop is also a very good point.. which is what I do as well.. even though I cut them both at the same time.. I still use the stop.

Beautiful work, RJ

of course i thought of using painters tape after i panted it "sigh"

thanks here is the finished product its not amazing especially the paint job sorry!

Ah yes, designer fire wood!! Sure glad to see that I am not the only one that has problems with making frames! Some times I surprise myself and the 4 pieces turn out perfect! Even with using a 45 degree slid, I just cannot get the right measurements on each one! I know it is something that I am not doing right and it is not the rulers or tape measures being off, just what I am not doing right! Hang in there, it will come to you! Erv

Looks good. Guess you were going for that singed burnt look as a finish. If miters are not square means the pieces were not equal on the opposite sides. Also needs to be 45 degrees accurately if making 4 sided. Good luck.

Welcome from Catalonia (Spain)

Welcome from Ohio.

You can set up automated searches on Craigslist, eBay, and Facebook that will notify you when something new is posted. If you are patient and careful, the used scroll saw market offers some great buys. However, depending on where you live, you may need to be willing to drive a bit. I bought a Pegas that had never been used from a Facebook ad. I had to drive from Tallahassee, Florida to North Georgia to get it. I have owned four scroll saws and only one was purchased new.

Hot off the saw 3/4 Poplar, 2 1/2 inches by 8 1/2 inches, quarter for scale. FD Polar #1 blades. BLO with shellac topcoat.

nice job

Rather than buying another saw, ir might be just a Saturday afternoon's work to fix yours. More tha likely it is in need of a good service and with the videos available from Gwinnette Woodworkers Guild, it's not difficult. Not many tools needed. We are here to help.

Just my opinion since I've been there done that with many different saw brands.. I suggest running the saw you have a watching Facebook marketplace or craigslist, ebay, and etc. for a good used higher end saw.. Many times a really nice older Hawk, Hegner, Pegas, or Seyco etc pop up at a better price than a new DeWalt.. A lightly used Pegas or Seyco and a moderately used Hawk or Hegner would likely outlast any of those new saws in the price range you're looking at. Many times I've seen the 18" Jet come up on sale for a inbetween price of the DeWalt and the Pegas and they ( last I knew ) are a good saw made in the same plant as the Pegas and Seyco I believe.. They have a bit different of a blade clamping system that you may love or hate.. good news is if you hate it you can buy the pegas clamp upgrade and have the same basic saw as the Pegas I think.. Nice work on the football helmets.. cool idea.. how large are they? I could see those selling good as a Christmas ornament size..

Welcome from the other side of the U.S. of A.

Welcome to the Village Glenn. Pull up a chair and make yourself at home. Marg

Welcome from Pennsylvania!

Welcome from North Carolina.

Welcome to village! We're glad you are here!

Welcome to the Village. I look forward to seeing your work as well.

Glenn, welcome to the village from Colorado. If it's tips and advice you want, you are in the right place. Enjoy the ride. Jerry

Welcome to the village Glenn. Bunch of friendly, helpful people here. Always someone to help you out when you need it. Be sure to check out our pattern library, lots of great patterns there.

welcome to the village

Very nicely done Tyler, the wood is most likely "blue pine" but the blue staining is brown, like this piece:

Thanks... I was working on auto pilot, didn't really have any plans as usual. The top across was 1/8" shorter than the bottom across, whatever that means...