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been meaning to mention if you are frustrated by the white glue squeeze out there is a better way. Tightbond has a translucent glue that is as strong at their usual stuff. It has a brown shade bottle lable with the word "translucent' under the name It dries perfectly clear so no white lines show after you glue a joint. Have been using it for several years with no weakness and no white lines left.

There is a free pattern floating about called the Band Saw Dump Truck. I've made a few before but made a few modifications from the plan. The main change is extending the front of the dump section, as it moves more weight to the front so the hopper does not flop. I used Black Limba for the sides of the hopper, so it adds a nice contrast.

This looks like the same saw with cosmetic differences. https://www.amazon.com/Bucktool-Inch-Scrow-Saw-Woodworking/dp/B0CPDT9BMW The Rikon version doesn't look much different. Here is another one. This time, pricing is by container. Does anyone need a couple of hundred scroll saws? https://www.allwin-tools.com/new-arrival-csa-certified-22-inch-variable-speed-scroll-saw-with-1-6a-motor-product/ Yet another one. Either they come from the same factory, or the Chinese are copying each other.

Four more Miniature Birdhouse Ornaments. I used Ash for the birdhouses and Eastern Red Cedar for the little birds. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #6 Super Skip blades. After a light sanding with a Mac Mop, dipped in diluted Shellac. Another light sanding. Comments welcome.

Here is my latest project. I bought the book with this pattern several years ago and looked at it several times. I finally decided it was time to try it. I'm not real good at compound cutting, but it went better than expected.

THANKS AGAIN ALL. I think I will just start saving and buy a New Speed Control Lil Circuit board. Later.........Danny :+}

I also have been using the translucent glue for several years. I still will use a toothpick to try to clean up any squeeze out but any that gets left behind or missed doesn't seem to show up. Also depending on what I'm gluing up I found that gluing backers on portraits or signage type stuff with several fretwork cuts that it's easier to spread a thin layer of glue out on a piece of wax paper or I usually use a trash bag and dipping the back side of the project into the glue makes for much more even glue spread and much faster way to do it. Once the glue dries on the bag you can take it out in the yard and shake most of the dried glue off.. and you can still use the bag. You can use a business card to spread the glue around on the bag to get a thin layer or use some plastic filler spreaders from Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/plastic-spreader-set-3-piece-69563.html

The short answer to your original question is the controller should be repairable by a competent person with a multimeter and the knowledge of how to use it. The controller is just made up of pieces and parts that are all replaceable. The problem will come in if the motor is the culprit. The average person probably won't be able to fix it without the proper equipment and knowledge. Hegner saws have a "slow start" feature that also muddies the water. Best of luck and be careful.

Here’s a sample of what they turn out like.

DId this one over for a customer who wanted one for his 2 yr. old grandson who loves gorillas. They want a name puzzle but the young man's name only has 4 letters in it' and trying to find a font that works when doing word puzzles does anyone have an idea on fonts?

Thanks very much for the compliments. The oak box is 3"x6"x1-1/2" high. The ribbons & bow is made of purpleheart, basswood, and cherry. Finish is warm semi-gloss Minwax fast-dry urethane

As many of you know my "Poppy's Workshop" makes toys and donates them to organizations, helping children in need. My current big project is 125 toys for a local organization here in Hampton Roads VA, that helps out with kids with cancer. I am a little behind the 8-ball due to my eye injury early this year and then my summer stoppage. I am about 1/2 way there and have until October, so it should not be a problem. I finished another 20 toys this week (photo 1), and now working on another dozen race cars. I am doing 3 or 4 at a time, so this way I am not left with a big pile of unfinished pieces. It also gives me a sense of accomplishment when I get stuff done, rather than a bunch in 'production'. That being said, I am working on a modified Steve Good design, the first 2 cars you see with the walnut sides, are more along the way of the original design (minus the number). I like this, as the interior is 1/2", and the sides 1/8" each. I can shape the head before gluing, and I think it comes out nice. However, that is more cutting, and then gluing up, which almost doubles production time. So I am opting for a single piece of 3/4" wood. It does make shaping the head a little tricky, but I am working on a process, of sanding on my 1x30 sanding belt, for the rough shape, then using a Kutzall bit to shape the head a bit more. It is still abstract, but it works for me. Images: (1) 20 finished from earlier this week, (2 & 3) from single and glued sides, (4) On the scroll saw, #9 FD UR, (5) Rough cut, (6) This is how I set axle length quickly with a spacer (7) Rough shape, (8) The rough shaped blanks Next will be the rotary tool to shape the head to the finished shape, then on to the barrel sander to add curves to the body of the car, then mop sand, and then the wheels. I will be doing this after my lunch and nap, so this is the start.

Love it. These are on my to do list. A couple months ago I found a couple books I had with these type patterns so I pulled them out and put on the side. I want to give them a try. I like your design because it is different than square which we see lots of. The wood combination works very well. Job well done.

I actually finished a project while Momma was away for the week. My neighbor has two young granddaughters, that visit them often. I love to make them something when I find something I think they will enjoy. When I saw @alexfox's spooky candy box I had to make them each one. They are both the same. I added a skeleton to the inside bottom. Not part of the plans but saw the pattern for the little guy and thought he belonged in the box. The eyes on the cat are green but didn't show up well in the picture.

I remember playing this waaaay back when.

Well done. I did those last year for my nieces and nephews.

I do not use tape or shelf liner under the pattern. I use 3M-77, stick the pattern to the wood, cut it, and then brush the pattern with mineral spirits liberally, wait a minute or two, lift the pattern off including all those bits you have to do individually with tape. I lightly wipe the work with mineral spirits, never had to scrub it at all, and have not (knock wood) had a problem with breaking fretwork during that process.

Thank you, Marg. Slowly getting used to the new normal. We had a Labor Day get together yesterday and was saddened when I was counting up how many hamburger patties to make and briefly wondered if Amy was coming.