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I have a grandson that had the oportunity to meet a WWl Veteran who had come to his grade school on Veterans day and talked with his class about his experience serving in the army. My grandson's interest in WWl really was sparked and he started to study about it and has become really knowlegable about it and told me that man was 104 years old at the time he came to the school. I had been looking at this pattern for quite some time as I thought the picture told a story without words. I told my grandson about it and said I would make him a piece with a picture of a dressed soldlier in uniform for him if he was interested. He became instantly excited and so I got it to him last week. Here is the results of my effort.

After reading Richard’s post, aka heppnerguy, of August 17, I jumped on the Idea. I had already planned to make something for my Great-Grandson, who is just turning 1 this month. Also, my Lady's Son and Daughter in law are expecting a baby boy in December, and of course, she asked me to make something “cute” for him. These wall hangings are what I came up with. I found the Snowman and a Santa Segmentation patterns on Good’s Scrollsaw Workshop site that I will send to my Grandson. I also found a Judy Gale Roberts Intarsia Pattern of a Christmas Teddy Bear Pattern, that I used as a Segmentation, that she can send to her son. Like Richard is doing, these will be sent out early, so they will arrive well before Thanksgiving. All three pieces were cut from nominal 1’x10” thick clear premium pine using Pegas #1 MGT R Blades. I started each cutting from one small inconspicuous hole, such that the waste board created a solid border to hold the loose pieces in proper position while they were assembled and glued to the backer. The backer is 1/8” thick BB Ply, with edges painted Black, cut about a sixteenth of an inch inside the pattern outline. Although the patterns were cut from one board, I used typical Intarsia techniques to do sculpturing, lowering some areas while I added shims to elevate other areas to obtain a nice presentation. After all pieces were sanded, I applied an acrylic sealer followed by light sanding and then I painted each piece separately using my Air Brush and Artist Acrylic Air Brush paints. Eight different colors (not counting the tiny bit of gold on the bears buckle I did with a brush), each done separately with significant drying time in between. After the pieces were glued to the backer and the outer waste board removed, the assembly was protected with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish spray. Nom 8" x 11" Nom 8" x 11" Nom 7" x 9" Comments and Critiques always welcome.

Congratulations, Barb. You did an awesome job on your piece.

Hey everyone! In this fun scroll saw project video, we make a beautiful Floral Style Pirate's Jolly Roger to celebrate my love of the Pirate Lifestyle! The Design is from the Fall 2021 Issue 84 Of Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Magazine by Fox Chapel Publishing. I used 1/4 inch and 1/2 inch material for this project, hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

Since you have the great facility at your disposal, and access to the stores patronage, you might want to offer an Intro to SS'g Meeting first...open to the general public. Put up posters in the store along with other local establisments if possible and put free adds, where availble, in local papers and the like. Invite any local Sawers you know to attend and "help out" with a presentation. If there is enough interest, be prepared to announce continuing meetings. The helpers who show up and any interested "newbes" would easily form the bases for the Club membership. A club needs "members" and unless you have a lot of local sawers, there may not be enough interst with only those already in the hobby. Just my 2 cents.

There is a free pattern floating about called the Band Saw Dump Truck. I've made a few before but made a few modifications from the plan. The main change is extending the front of the dump section, as it moves more weight to the front so the hopper does not flop. I used Black Limba for the sides of the hopper, so it adds a nice contrast.

I finished another Harley Davidson plaque for a friend. Nice piece of thick old mahogany I had laying around.

I have watched a lot of their videos. I have got some good ideas from them, but man, sometimes those videos are REALLY long and boring.

You should check with the Gwinnett Woodwork club. they meet at Peachtree Woodworking Supply. https://www.gwinnettwoodworkers.com/ They have lots of videos of previous meetings and have a Special Interest Group devoted to Scrolling.

I am located in Oklahoma City. I work at a woodworking store so I am hoping that once I get the thing going, I'll get enough people to participate. The owner of our store will let me use the classroom when I need it so I think I have the logistics in place, I just need to pull the trigger on this thing. Thanks!

Thanks for the input. Those are very nice pieces by the way!

not much interest here either although two very good scroll saw artist from surrounding communities have made contact with me this summer

I have been thinking of starting a scroll saw club for my area as there is nothing like that around me. I was just wondering if any of you are members of such clubs or have even started your own, and what a average club meeting looks like.

The only way you can know for sure is to test it. Anything else is a guess.

Sorry about the delay, but I don't go on the forum over the weekend. I have not sold any in the last four years. The tpi is very low. For example, the Super Hook #11 is 9.0. I would recommend the Pegas Super Skip blades.

After I had a bad circuit board. The repair person told me it looked like a power surge. I replaced all my power strips in the house with new ones with surge protection. Just in case. I also keep a second saw.

I do use a 20A outlet, and sometimes a 15A. But I run multiple tools in the shop, but not at same time. This is the only tool giving me any grief. And that includes table and miter saws running.

I actually use a dedicated circuit. Nothing else runs on it but my tool area. And I only have a LED shop light and one tool running at a time. This is the only tool that has given me issues. Routers (yes, I use multiple) a table saw, a band saw, even some jig saws, and a spare scroll saw all run through the same set up. I use 2 different cords, depending on plans for the day. But again, would be odd for this to be the only tool seeing an issue.

Hey Everyone! In this fun Scroll Saw Project Vide, we make beautiful Welcome autumn piece from the latest issue of Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Magazine (Fall 2024 Issue #96) This beautiful design is very fragile to scroll out but, makes a beautiful decor piece to help welcome in Fall 2024! Hope you like the video! #ArtisanPirate

Just a bit far to travel

This is not a quote because I can't remember exactly what he said. The Titebond rep said it is OK to use if it doesn't get thick, separate, lumpy, etc. Essentially, it is OK to use if the glue doesn't change. He was a chemist and Technical Service Manager at Titebond. My personal experience bears this out. My glue doesn't go through extreme temperature changes. He also discussed: To test, glue two pieces of wood together, let the glue cure overnight, and break the joint. If the wood breaks instead of the glue, it is OK to use it. They tested glue that was 22 years old, and it worked. The expiration date is used to please lawyers. It means that Titebond will support the glue until the expiration date, no matter how it is stored.

Congratulations Barb. Excellent work on my favorite bird. Marg

They are all so very cute. They will be cherished. Marg

Now I would think if you put your creative hats on you can overcome that pin. Lock it out by making a spacer to keep extended. It probably does not serve a purpose other than locking the arm. If locked out then use a block of wood to keep arm raised as you do on a Dewalt. The tension of the blade will keep the arm from raising. Why would it be any different than the other clones of this type saw? Would like to hear from someone who gets to try the saw in a store or actually buys one. Run the saw as normal and pull the pin and see what happens. I am sure they will let you try in HF.

you have made quite the name for yourself in the scrolling world. Your videos are very helpful to many and it is fun to see your projects pop up here in The Village on a regular basis. Dick heppnerguy

Just saw this post and I too wish to condole my congratulations on your winnings. My you have sure achieved a lot in the past year as you continue to dwell into new things to do on your scroll saw. My hat is off to you once more. Dick heppnerguy

WOW, great work as always. I had trouble with the painting of my snowmen but my family does not have anyone else, like you for instance, to compare my work with so they think I am good at what I do in my shop, so I let them live in their ignorance. Dick heppnerguy

I was going to suggest him also. I've read everything he has written. A very good source for info on Hegner saws. And, If you write to him with a question or comment, he will respond pretty quickly.

HF in my area still doesn't have one on display. I'm still leaning toward staying with my current saw, but I want to try out the Bauer just for grins and giggles. I hope they let me install a blade and cut some wood.

That is the one thing that always turned me off on the Delta clone of the DeWalt.. as it has a pin at the back to release the upper arm so you can lower it back down.. After having a higher end saw that has a spring loaded upper arm I've been spoiled.. I don't even like having to raise and lower it on my Excalibur since I went to the Hawk and Hegner it's sure nice not to have to "lift the arm" out of the way as it does it by itself.. I also don't think I could go back to a saw that you can't really adjust how aggressive it cuts.. Dang it.. I was just back to HF yesterday and didn't even think to go see if they had one on the display shelf yet..

Tom, I have used the Rikon version of this saw which is identical in almost every way, including the locking pin. I agree that it is a bit of a reach to unlock the pin every time the arm needs to be lowered. I have the "Lifter" attachment on my Dewalt which I overall think is better. I was seriously considering buying the Rikon when it came to my store, but after thinking about it more and more I think I will just stick with my 788.

Looking over the manual for the saw, it says to raise the upper arm, you need to reach to the back of the saw to pull a pin to release the arm. Once raised the pin needs to be pulled again to lower the arm. That is a pretty good distance on a 22" saw, and on a typical portrait style project would get pretty tedious. That alone would put me off this particular saw. Maybe someone who has actually used the saw could comment on this. Or maybe the pin could be removed and the arm raised and lowered like the DW788. Tom

Where are you located. Some members here maybe in your area. If you are in Durham-oshawa area. Our club has quite a few scrollers

Plan a get together at a coffee shop. Instant meeting!

I don't believe there are any clubs in my area. Not sure there would be interest. I feel like I am the only one in the area!

There is a man in UK with a lot of repair information about Hegner scroll saws. His Facebook is Hegner A Saw Subject. Here is a link to some of his posts. https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=122164891778219647&id=61556589420174