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It's been a few weeks since I have been able to sit at the saw,, actually any of my saws! Between work and hurricanes it's been hectic. A couple of Steve Good designs that I modified. They are kind of plain and ugly looking in the daylight but they come alive in the dark. LOL I'll let my wife paint them up however she wants to make them look better in the daylight. I used some 1/8" BB ply, some nightlight kits from Amazon and some Vellum paper. Very quick projects that are actually useful. I think I'll tweak the design a little more on the Haunted House before she paints it. I've got 2 more of the nightlight kits left, I have a couple of other design ideas that I may try out.

I recently entered my Viking in the Royal Melbourne Show, and I got a 1st. I am so thrilled and proud. Marg

Just finished this Jewelry Box for one of my Grandkids. Made out of pine and Walnut. Measures 8 x 8 and 2 inches high. A Steve Good pattern.

Just a few I did for Halloween. Made doubles of most of them and gave them to the grandkids.LOL

Here are the finished bird houses. Thanks to @don in brooklin on for the #6 blades. Wood is spruce (?). Finish is Danish oil, Fruit wood colour. Bird is Walnut.

Grew up with Duck Tales as my after-school unwind cartoon, Darkwing came a bit after I'd moved on to other things, but I do recall catching some of the shows and he was always funny. Besides, Launchpad McQuack was in it (dude sure made the rounds of Disney Afterschool cartoons), so it *had* to be good. Pattern was picked up on Google Images, can't recall which font I used. I can post the pattern in the library if anyone wants it. Minwax Natural and Honey stains, with some rattlecan Purple on the backer behind the lettering. Pegas #02MG blades on....3/8 bbply.

I have 4 craft sales coming up. A couple Steve Good patterns. The light houses were from SSWC Magazine. Rescue cat from Scott Seifer. The cat will be donated for the group gift basket. Two of the sales are for cat rescue shelters.

Every now and then I do a project that makes me smile and I enjoy. This one has been on my list for a few years ( I worked at Disney World back in the 80's). Finally had a week free to make it. It'll go on the wall next to Donkey Kong. Chris

My Dewalt saw, blades, patterns, etc, left the building this morning.... Time to explore different things. I did enjoy all of the help and the wealth of useful information you good people provided especially grandpa for providing me with patterns I was able to cut of our seven dogs, of which six, have passed on. Having completed their portraits made this hobby all worthwhile. I will still be stopping by to see all of your wonderful creations. I figured I would post some of the work I did get finished in the last year and show the pile of blades I wish I started from day one. Again, Thank You All...

It is very pricey but after I took a class from Judy Gale Roberts I purchased this light from her. I don’t scroll without it. I got it 8 years ago and if memory serves it was about $150. https://intarsia.com/products/daylight-omega-5-magnifying-led-lamp?_pos=34&_sid=00dd55174&_ss=r

In my opinion if you're able to twist a blade like that then you have a tensioning issue.. maybe not enough at the start of the cut or slippage once you start cutting.. I don't know but I have had instances where a blade would twist some.. maybe not that much but anyway it was always because the tension on the balde wasn't enough.. You might try cleaning your clamp screws where they pinch the blade and also sand the ends of the blade to remove the oils from the blade.. they're coated to prevent rusting andover time they'll build up oil on the clamping screws. There may be a different issue here with your situation but that is what I've always had happen when a blade slipped in the clamp.

A few projects for Halloween.

Hello, all - I’m a brand new member here, and I’m happy to have found this wonderful community. I live in Minnesota with my family and I have been a woodworker off and on for about 15 years. I have done quite a few projects but I am never going to be accused of being a “fine woodworker” and I’m more into function than form (read: “I’m a bit of a hack.” ) However, I really enjoy fixing things, and making things of all kinds, mostly out of wood. I have had a band saw for a long time, but I have almost no experience with a scroll saw. I have used other people’s scroll saws just a couple of times so this is mostly new to me. I am interested in making a couple of projects which require (or will be made way easier with) a scroll saw, so that’s what got me interested in scroll saws. After poking around here and other places on the web, I can see what a useful and fun tool it would be to have. So this weekend, I just picked one up! I bought one of the new Bauer 22” scrolls saws from Harbor Freight and I’m looking forward to getting it set up, tuned up, and put to use. I’m also excited to learn from all of you and maybe someday I can get enough experience to help other new people. Best regards, Michael

Very nice, RJ

See you on the other side, RJ

Just to throw this in, and something I have experienced, if you're cutting a turn and rotate the piece to quickly without allowing the blade to "cut" through the turn (especially sharp turns), it will bend the blade. This is more noticeable with the larger blades because the kerf has more surface area to bend the blade before it is allowed to cut it's way though. Concerning the tension: I bottom feed and there are times when I'll feed the blade through the piece and it will not be directly aligned between the clamps. I'll clamp the blade to the top clamp, apply tension and as I do, it moves (aligns) the piece between the clamps. I'll then remove the tension, unclamp the top, and then reclamp the blade with the hole directly between the clamps. I've also found that if I'm experiencing excessive drift or I'm having to excessively rotate the piece to follow a curve, I know the blade has loosened and needs to be repositioned in the clamp for proper tension.

So if the tension is too high the blade will bow when released? I've been wondering a great while if I was tensioning correctly. The high c thing doesn't work for me.

I have both the Fluorescent and LED light magnifiers on my website. I use mine all the time.

Yes, it looks like a tension issue. One way to tell, apply tension, then release the tension. If there is a bow in the blade, it is a tension issue. Tension issues are usually caused by the set screw or thumb screw.

Hubby bought me this light for Christmas last year. Game changer! It has a heavy duty magnetic in the base that is controlled by the switch and clamps onto the scroll saw table. It doesn't get in my way as it sits at the back of the table. Since my saw has nil vibration that is not a issue. The light is very bright, and the flexible neck lets me move the light wherever I need it. Was purchased from Amazon.

I have a 4' led shop light overhead for general lighting. I have, but don't use often, a magnifying light. I also have, but don't use often, the same light as @BadBob. I need to get a bigger power bar because I have run out of spaces to plug in the extra lights.

awesome work

excellent work

Another MGT fan. Never had that issue. I agree it appears to be a tension issue.

I use sewing machine lights. They are cheap, effective, and very versatile. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088ZBPNPH/ I have two magnifying lamps. I don't use them for scrolling; I find them annoying.

I use pegas MGT almost exclusively, and I have never seen them twist. This looks more like a bend than a twist.

Here is my light. I guess it is about 4 years old now as I got it when I got my Pegas saw. I can't even find a brand name on it. Has Chinese writing on it. The lamp does get in the way of the cut panel ocassionally. One reason I use spiral blades a lot - no spining th panel so it does not hit the light. It was around $40, if I remember correctly. Very much worth it, IMO.

Hi, @Hawk - Thanks for your posts about this saw. I was looking for my first-ever scroll saw and I wanted something good but money was still an obstacle. I wanted a DeWalt 788 but it was a bit out of my price range, and at a local woodworker’s guild meeting I was warned to avoid the cheap entry level scroll saws. I saw the HF Bauer one and although there isn’t a ton of info out about it, what I have seen has been very positive. Your posts and video helped me decide to get it so I pulled the trigger for one on Saturday. This saw is not small and not light — and I’m happy for that. I put mine on a universal HF tool stand and that thing doesn’t budge so far. Vibrations are not bad at all and better than I was expecting. Now I need to get some new blades and get it all tuned up so I can put it to use. I will be happy to report back how it goes for me, but you’ll all have to take my thoughts with a grain of salt since I am new to scroll saws. Michael

Really good setup??? I'm sure there going to be a lot different "good setup" suggestion's. My setup is good, but not necessarily really good, for me. I use a typical 5X Mag light w/an LED ring light. However, I do supplement that light with a high intensity goose neck light that mounts to the side of the saw with a magnetic base. This light shines directly on the blade and creates a very visible shadow from where the blade intersects the pattern. This shadow helps me see the blade and follow the line more accurately. My 2 cents.

Adios!

Good luck with your new adventures. Have fun.

I will agree with everyone, excellent good luck with your sales, RJ

Nice! I've made a couple of those haunted houses a few years ago. I like that skull witch head.

They came out real nice. Must try some spruce. Did you just put food colour in the hole?

Love that Santa. All very nicely done.

Nice, Very nice!

I have two shows coming up in one month, so I have to keep busy and make some different items for sale. Golf season just about over so more times to spend in the shop.

Nice, very nice!....A lot of work and it paid off for you....Well done!

I posted in the General forum about how to make pattern outline lines thicker using Inkscape. but I did'nt do a good job of explaining why it may be useful. (epoxy fill) Here are some project pics to illustrate why you may need thicker lines on a pattern you want to scroll. I would not have been able to use epoxy fill with thin lines. These patterns came from various stained glass websites. I plan on making several gnomes to give away as christmas tree ornaments. The cross with several colors of purple will be put in a lighted shadow box. The cross with the flower will sit in a stand and put in a window, I have made several of those as they will make pretty good Christmas gifts. Thanx for looking.....forrest

An Alex Fox Basket C261 Modified. I used 1/4" Beech 8" square. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 MGT blades. After sanding with a Mac Mop, glue each ring, spray with two coats Lacquer Clear Gloss, and light sanding between coats. Comments welcome.

I'm all scrolled out right now this weekend a lot of the pieces go out

That is the best decision you could have made. This is Paul Douglass from Family Woodworking. I hope you enjoy it here. There is lots of info, so check out the site. Check resources to find suppliers of parts, blades, patterns, etc. There are hundreds of Patterns free in the pattern section, and things to learn in the University section. And go ahead and make fun of me anytime you want. All the rest do! I deserve it.