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Just finished this Jewelry Box for one of my Grandkids. Made out of pine and Walnut. Measures 8 x 8 and 2 inches high. A Steve Good pattern.

'don in brooklin' was referring to me. I've backed many of my scroll-sawn pieces with appropriate glass. I'm attaching photos of three of those pieces.

So I have been using mine for a few hours cutting 3/4 in. poplar at a 30 deg. angle using a pegas blade, I haven't had any problems, just throwing it out there.

If you use that knob at the back of the saw you'll be getting the upper arm all out of adjustment.. that knob is to adjust the height of the upper arm so that it is parallel to the saw table. The upper arm should measure the same distance to the table at both the front of the saw and at the back of the saw.

Just to throw this in, and something I have experienced, if you're cutting a turn and rotate the piece to quickly without allowing the blade to "cut" through the turn (especially sharp turns), it will bend the blade. This is more noticeable with the larger blades because the kerf has more surface area to bend the blade before it is allowed to cut it's way though. Concerning the tension: I bottom feed and there are times when I'll feed the blade through the piece and it will not be directly aligned between the clamps. I'll clamp the blade to the top clamp, apply tension and as I do, it moves (aligns) the piece between the clamps. I'll then remove the tension, unclamp the top, and then reclamp the blade with the hole directly between the clamps. I've also found that if I'm experiencing excessive drift or I'm having to excessively rotate the piece to follow a curve, I know the blade has loosened and needs to be repositioned in the clamp for proper tension.

Funny how plans change as you move through a project. A wall hanging that started life meaning to be a table trivet but is a little fragile for the purpose so what does one do? Put a hanger on it and there you go. A wall hanging.

I've always questioned the tension method on my EX's too. If I left the rear knob at the same spot when going from a 5 to a 1 or 2 mgt. As soon as I'd flip the lever the blade would break. So I had to back the knob off a 1/4 turn or so.

The knob sets the tension and the lever applies the tension set after a blade change.

I use sewing machine lights. They are cheap, effective, and very versatile. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B088ZBPNPH/ I have two magnifying lamps. I don't use them for scrolling; I find them annoying.

I recently entered my Viking in the Royal Melbourne Show, and I got a 1st. I am so thrilled and proud. Marg

I was asked by Frederick Lumber Company to join some other woodworkers and a rep from Festool to do a demonstration with my scrollsaw yesterday. I have done this cutting of Willie Nelson a couple of times before. Though I cut and stained the backboard before the show, I cut all of the rest between 9:00 a.m. and 12:30 p.m. while stopping and answering people’s questions. After cutting it all with 2 Pegas 0 spiraIs, I took it over to the Festool demo and used one of their palm sanders to remove the fuzzies on the back.I gotta say it was noticeably smoother to use with less vibration than the ones I have. A number of people asked if I would consider giving a class on scrolling. I’m considering it. (Pattern is Steve Good’s).

Grew up with Duck Tales as my after-school unwind cartoon, Darkwing came a bit after I'd moved on to other things, but I do recall catching some of the shows and he was always funny. Besides, Launchpad McQuack was in it (dude sure made the rounds of Disney Afterschool cartoons), so it *had* to be good. Pattern was picked up on Google Images, can't recall which font I used. I can post the pattern in the library if anyone wants it. Minwax Natural and Honey stains, with some rattlecan Purple on the backer behind the lettering. Pegas #02MG blades on....3/8 bbply.

Mighty fine cutting

Sure right about coming to life in the dark!

Yes it is.

I have been using the Flying Dutchman UR blades on a Dewalt for years. When the blade became dull or worn, it would slow down its cutting or break. I recently purchased a Pegas and some Pegas MGT blades. One thing I'm noticing on my blades that after a turn, many times the Pegas MGT do not straighten, but remained in a somewhat twisted state which causes the cutting to drift. This has happened on #3 and #5 blades. I have a picture attached, hopefully someone will be able to make it out and provide an explanation on why it is doing this. I never had the problem with the FDUR blades. Thanks in advance, Bob

I agree that the tension should rarely, if ever, need to be adjusted. My Pegas is brand new and I have read that everything is set so it should work correctly out of the box. Mine was not, which was actually beneficial because with all of the input on this post, I actually learned something for a change.

I carefully aligned my EX21 to parallel the table and never touched the knob again. I have never had an issue using anything from #1r to #9r mgt blades. The same holds true for my Pegas saw.

What a cute little fellow he is and he put a smile on my face, thank you. You did an excellent job as always, well done. Marg

Good luck with whatever you next decide on. Marg

I stand corrected.. I looked at the manual and it does say to use the knob.. That all said, I've been told that once you set that knob to get the upper arm parallel don't touch it again or you'll get it all out of tune. I suppose that since I rarely have the need to change any tension anyway because I mostly only use one size blade in that particular saw anyway.

I've never changed the knob on mine even going down to the 2/0 blades I use sometimes.. however I do mount the blade slightly loose, as in on the larger blade I push down on the upper arm slightly as I lift up on the blade that is already clamped in the lower chuck to take out any of the "bearings slack".. but I don't do either on the smaller blades.

Wow, Frank! Those are gorgeous. I really like the combination of the scroll saw work with the glass. Thanks for sharing!

Sorry, I should have clarified, the tension was not correct for the position of the blade. You are correct. The Pegas does have a tension adjustment in the back of the saw

Bonza ! Well deserved. A really great piece of cutting.

I don't think he meant if the tension is too high.. I think he said if you tension the blade then release the tension and the blade has a bow in it then the blade chuck screws are likely slipping.. I didn't see anywhere he mentions tensioned too high.. I don't think you really can tension too high can you? well maybe because then you'll likely break a blade. EDIT: I don't think there is anyway to adjust the tension of the blade on a Pegas saw? There is no way to adjust it on the Excalibur unless you have one of the older models.

Excellent, congrads on the prize, RJ

See you on the other side, RJ

This was the first time I’ve heard that as well and he was right on the money.

So if the tension is too high the blade will bow when released? I've been wondering a great while if I was tensioning correctly. The high c thing doesn't work for me.

WoW Marg, that is awesome. You did a fantastic job cutting that out.

Just a few I did for Halloween. Made doubles of most of them and gave them to the grandkids.LOL

Yes, it looks like a tension issue. One way to tell, apply tension, then release the tension. If there is a bow in the blade, it is a tension issue. Tension issues are usually caused by the set screw or thumb screw.

Congrats Marg, well deserved Jeff

I have a 4' led shop light overhead for general lighting. I have, but don't use often, a magnifying light. I also have, but don't use often, the same light as @BadBob. I need to get a bigger power bar because I have run out of spaces to plug in the extra lights.

Thanks. It is what I use to display ornaments/birdhouses. It is a Pasta Drying rack. I also made one on a lazy susan thingy so it spins!

Another MGT fan. Never had that issue. I agree it appears to be a tension issue.

In my opinion if you're able to twist a blade like that then you have a tensioning issue.. maybe not enough at the start of the cut or slippage once you start cutting.. I don't know but I have had instances where a blade would twist some.. maybe not that much but anyway it was always because the tension on the balde wasn't enough.. You might try cleaning your clamp screws where they pinch the blade and also sand the ends of the blade to remove the oils from the blade.. they're coated to prevent rusting andover time they'll build up oil on the clamping screws. There may be a different issue here with your situation but that is what I've always had happen when a blade slipped in the clamp.

Congrats!!!

Well done and well deserved.

Well earned Marg.

Proud as you should. That is a great cutting. Congratulations!

fantastic job, it's beautiful

WELL DONE, MARGE Thanks for sharing. Rick

Nicely done Marg and congratulations on 1st place. Jerry

Beautiful work and well deserved award Marg, congratulations!

Great result every right to be proud.

Just so you I have been doing something. I am finished with the Halloween candy boxes (Alex Fox Pattern). I am so done! I have three more cut out, but I do not intend to finish them. Maybe next year. I enjoy the cutting, the painting, not so much. I have got to fill them with candy and wait time the time to ship them. So done with the painting. Painting sucks!

I have done dozens of projects combining stained glass and scrolling. This is an engagement present I scrolled backed in glass. I cut an angled recessed ring in the outer perimeter and inserted the glass in back of it.

Also, look into intarsia. A scroll saw discipline. Get into that, and you will never even throw a used toothpick away!