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Well my first show of the year is over, it was a pretty cool day temperature around 6C not too big of a crowd because it was in our community of 184 houses. My sales were better than expected $578 and another $80 for special orders.

"Creature from the Black Lagoon" 40 x 67,5cm, backer board 8mm, lagoon 4mm, bottom overlay 4mm, backer board head 4mm, head 4mm, cheap DIY store ply, done with a fretsaw using a #1 blade. The thing is the size of ca. 4 A4 sheets. Everything is done by hand, as I don't have any power tools. I found the original pic at deviantArt, making the patterns required redoing every single line in CorelDraw, which took about 20 hours. Fretsawing is a very slow process, I guess it took about 30 to 50 hours for this one. Some details: the pattern for the head the finished head on it's backer the lagoon and the bottom overlay

I just posted this on another thread but I'll put it here as well since this one might get better search results in the future. I spray where the pin goes through the rod up by the lever marked in black on the photo and also spray in the spring area circled in the blue color. Also the rod part up above where the spring is as that rod goes through a small hole right there. The sliding part that moves up and down is down at its lowest point when the tension is released so sometimes I'll put just a drop of spray on each side just above that sliding part and work the lever back and forth. Also in the other photo where you see the side of the lever I hit that metal bushing on each side. You'll be amazed at how much smoother the tensioning lever works after doing this. A little on the threads of the thumb screws makes them work so smooth too.. just be careful not to get it on the clamping part of the thumb screw or you may never get a blade to hold again, LOL. Pull the end caps ( swivels ) out of the end of the thumb screws and use some dielectric grease just a very tiny wipe onto the rubber O-ring to keep the swivel spinning nicely. Do not use a petroleum type on it like Vaseline as it'll make the O-ring swell eventually and cause it to not swivel at all.. The tough part is you only need just a drop on all of this but it's hard not to get spray all over.. I usually will cover the table with paper towels.. and also have one in hand. Really would work best if you could get some spray on a Q-tip or small brush to get it where you need it without getting it all over.. Trust me it's not fun if you get the stuff on the thumb screws etc.. LOL.. But I always like the challenge so I just spray it but as I said.. maybe spray a little on a Q-tip would be much smarter. I like to use the PB Blaster Garage Door dry spray lube.. it last a long time working nice and smooth. https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/369279-blaster-garage-door-lubricant.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=lia&setstore=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvpy5BhDTARIsAHSilyn1PMwgvSyWCyovpNO4IzrcynhqU7wAyMjSvEbt2BTn95rKU3jwvEkaAk4BEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Jerry, never use silicone on woodworking machines. Silicone can interfere with finishes. It can cause fisheyes in your finish.

Nothing like a hot cup of coffee on a cold winter's morning.

I followed Rick @Hudson River Rick post on the tension spring and what to do with it. Also saw Kevin's @kmmcrafts remarks for maintaining our scroll saws. I have a Pegas scroll saw for almost 3 years now and have never done any maintenance to it other than keeping it clean. Owners manual has nothing on maintenance. My question what can we do to keep our machines running smoothly? You say to spray some kind of lubricant on moving parts. I have silicone spray and also a dry lubricant. Which is best to use? Also, my biggest question is, what do you spray since most parts are covered. I grew up on a farm and my dad was a big proponet on keeping things librucated with either oil or grease, but that was easy to do because everyting was visible. Not much is visible on my scroll saw and I am one that is afraid to tear things down. Maybe point out where to spray lubricant. I understand on the thumb screst just putting it on the threads and not the tips. I would assume to spary a litten on paper towel then applying the spray on the paper towel. Other than that, I am puzzled what to do. Thanks, Jerry

From a pattern from a book called scroll saw wooden bowls ,by Carole Rothman.

I found a source for micro fine powdered Teflon, a piano maintenance site. They sell a 1 oz container for a reasonable price. It's been years since I bought my last supply. https://www.howardpianoindustries.com/micro-fine-ptfe-powder/ I use an artist brush to apply the power, a little goes a long way. On my Hegner I used it on the tension lever cam, the area where the blade holders rock , the back areas that rock and a light dusting above the bearing (so that oil carries some into the bearings). My one word of caution is to never use any "detergent" oil, anything that says it will clean as it lubes. Detergent oils will absorb moisture from the air and become gummy, necessitating reapplying more oil, ad nauseum.

Pity you were not detailed in where you should spray Thanks for the know how.... bravo.

No graphite, dry or wet, on any aluminum parts ever. Graphite will galvanically react to the aluminum and eat it away. Also, don't clean aluminum with Simple Green; again, it will eat it away. Keep the bearings and bushings properly lubed; everything clean of dust, grease, etc. Scrollsaws are low maintenance in my experience. The Craftsman saw I have has motor brushes so check them every so often and replace when needed. My Hegner really only has arm bushings to worry about. If you have maintained farm equipment, scrollsaws will be a breeze.

Glad you got it worked. I disagree with the Awful learning experience, comment the fact that you learned, you fixed and it will probably never happen again, because know how prevent it in the future, I would say it was a great learning experience. I bet even further the fact that you posted it here you taught a whole lot of Pegas clamp owners (that just jumped up a gabbed their lube and went at it) how to prevent it also.

DeWalt scroll saw is on sale on Amazon for $399 (US prices). This is the lowest I've seen in a long time. So if you're in the market for a new saw, be sure to check this out: https://amzn.to/4f9JsQD Here is the price history for the last 120 Days. Pretty good deal if you're interested. Note: These are US prices and are accurate at the time of this posting. These prices fluctuate quickly. So if you find a deal, I'd jump on it!

Pattern by Ridgeback Wood Lamp. Saw the pattern and had to cut it. 11 X 14 double stack 1/8 BB ply 140 cuts with Sawbird #3 full reverse. Jeff

A little something I just finished for my granddaughters anniversary. Made out of Ash and Cherry. Able to do this with Denny's help. Pattern maker unknown.

In my exploration of adding color to my scrollsaw projects, and trying something new, I took an actual stained glass pattern and cut it with ⅛ ply and filling it with acrylic in place of the stained glass This time I stained one side darker that the other. So what do you think? Light or dark wood? Chris

Hi all I got asked if I could build a farm this is what I came up with.

Hi I made this before many years ago and was starting to look tatty so I took it down and made another with some improvements. This version now has a vinyl roof and plastic windows and doors no more rotten wood

Hi I got asked to make another room plaque for a friend. The theme was Noah

I had surgery for my deviated septum a couple of years ago and have been very pleased with the results. I can now breathe freely through both sides of my nose! And no more chronic infections.

Saturday morning, thankfully, my saw is working again. As it turns out, I didn't need any parts at all, the blade holder(#41D) on the drawing, was bound up , and had the spring locked at full compression. I sprayed some dry lube on it and after a while, I finally got it to budge. It took more effort than I would have expected, to free up the holder, but where would we be without effort. This has been an awful learning experience, but I hope it's over. Now onto the 38 Christmas ornaments for our families. Thanks for the help. Rick

@OCtoolguy Hey Ray, sorry, we aren't having any luck in posting that drawing. If you go to the GROBET site, that is where I got the image, but it was truly just luck. As we all know, "EVEN A BLIND SQUIRREL GETS A NUT ONCE IN A WHILE" Rick

@OCtoolguy Ray, I have a schematic drawing that I somehow found on the internet, I will try to get this posted sometime today. I tied twice to get it copied to this response, but I may as wel ave tried to fly an F-14. I don't have any idea on how to do it, but my wife will be home shortly, and believe me, she is the BRAINS of the house. Rick

Didn't know these things about on aluminum.. Not sure what the spray I use has in it but it has worked real well for me for the last 7 years so must not be a problem.. Anyway this is good info to know.

I spray where the pin goes through the rod up by the lever marked in black on the photo and also spray in the spring area circled in the blue color. Also the rod part up above where the spring is as that rod goes through a small hole right there. The sliding part that moves up and down is down at its lowest point when the tension is released so sometimes I'll put just a drop of spray on each side just above that sliding part and work the lever back and forth. Also in the other photo where you see the side of the lever I hit that metal bushing on each side. You'll be amazed at how much smoother the tensioning lever works after doing this. A little on the threads of the thumb screws makes them work so smooth too.. just be careful not to get it on the clamping part of the thumb screw or you may never get a blade to hold again, LOL. Pull the end caps ( swivels ) out of the end of the thumb screws and use some dielectric grease just a very tiny wipe onto the rubber O-ring to keep the swivel spinning nicely. Do not use a petroleum type on it like Vaseline as it'll make the O-ring swell eventually and cause it to not swivel at all.. The tough part is you only need just a drop on all of this but it's hard not to get spray all over.. I usually will cover the table with paper towels.. and also have one in hand. Really would work best if you could get some spray on a Q-tip or small brush to get it where you need it without getting it all over.. Trust me it's not fun if you get the stuff on the thumb screws etc.. LOL.. But I always like the challenge so I just spray it but as I said.. maybe spray a little on a Q-tip would be much smarter. I like to use the PB Blaster Garage Door dry spray lube.. it last a long time working nice and smooth. https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/369279-blaster-garage-door-lubricant.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=lia&setstore=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvpy5BhDTARIsAHSilyn1PMwgvSyWCyovpNO4IzrcynhqU7wAyMjSvEbt2BTn95rKU3jwvEkaAk4BEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Hockey gnomes are good sellers here specially BAD Maple Leafs and Good Ottawa Senators LOL

Which points are you recommending lubing?

@kevin I absolutley agree with you abot GROBET, I sent an e-mail asking for some guidance and I didn't get any return. Denny tried to guide me through some trouble shooting, but after I spent a little more time, I realized that the spring was under compression. I thought I was going to have to order a new clamping head, but after some GENTILE persuasion, the head move slightly and then I realized what the problem was. So far, so good, the saw(EX21), with the PEGAS clamps, is working and I can get the Christmas cards done for my wife so she can start her part of the project. Thnks for your help with the pictures. Rick

@Scrappile Thanks for thye reassuring words. It took me a while, but I finally traced the problem to the clamping section, and found the blade holder bound up. I'm not mechanically inclined, but I usually can find a problem with something, just before I toss it out.

Glad you got it all back up and running without need for taking it apart etc. Several years ago my saw had started working harder than it should and the spray lube really fixed it and made it work so smoothly that now I just spray the moving parts every month or so.. amazing how much smoother things work when they're slick with some spray lube. As I said in your other post.. I feel like Pegas should mention this in their manuals etc.. as not everyone is mechanical incline and wouldn't know that it's working harder than it should until they break the thing or make the spring work much harder making it weaker.. I've got almost 600 hours on my saw and have never replaced any parts in the chucks.. not even the thumb screws.. I spray the threads of the screws every now and then too.. Just gotta be careful not to get any on the tips where they pinch the blade and when you see how smooth the threads work you get way more tightening power so need to be careful not to over tighten them.. when the threads are stiff and gritty feeling it takes more clamping power to tighten them to the same torque and it's only because of the threads binding instead of working slick and smoothly. Some people say I over maintain but I just rather have my stuff working smoothly and not broke down..

They do run crazy sales every once in awhile and you just need to be aware or have it bookmarked and watched. That is a good price.

Hi A friend has asked me to make him this for his girlfriend to be wife.

Made a fun pick holder for my 8 year old grandson who just got a guitar for his birthday. Highly imperfect work but OK for a first try. Got off a bit with my templates making one side of the lid a bit thinner than the other. Proves it's hand made I suppose. Louidjy will forgive me. If anyone is interested I followed the instructions from a YouTube video called Scroll Saw Guitar Pick Holder from Acutabove Woodworking.

Meet Mr. & Mrs. frosty.....something I dreamed up this morning....Mr. is 4ft & Mrs. is 42". made from a 8ft 1x6.....parts were made from scrap wood, Mrs. glasses were made from soft steel wire. Comments are always welcomed. Ty. God Bless Dan

I use a Led light ring with a 5 diopter, I wear progressive glasses so that works perfectly for me. The magnification is perfect for me. But have a look at the focal length and Magnification number and decide which is best for you.