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Saw a picture of this sign on the internet several days ago. I modified it to fit my Nephew's Garage. He and his day drag race and build drag cars for some other people. I just thought it would fit he garage well.

Just got a picture back from the recipient of these coasters (gift for a high school friend). 1/4" elm laminated to cork coasters, one coat BLO, #1 Polar blades for most of the cutting, #2/0 Polar blades for the man. Thin coaster is the drop out from the thick. ( I love twofers ).

Just finished this beautiful Russ Beard Pattern, it was a double stack on 4mm Birch Plywood, cut with a Niqua 1 Pin Less blade, soaked in a BLO/Mineral Spirit Mixture, finished with a few coats of clear lacquer. Black backer and a second backed smaller than the original cut to give a shadow line effect. I cannot control the final colour appearance that the wood takes on, but I will accept it and am Blessed and Grateful that I am able to produce work like this.

Man they sure are coming out with a lot of woodworking stuff lately.. https://www.harborfreight.com/35-gallon-dust-collector-with-2-micron-canister-filter-70757.html

Done by request for a favorite niece.

This is 40 or more years old. It has been hanging on the wall everywhere we have lived since. It was made from pallet wood and one of the first things I cut on a scroll saw. I'm living this today with my grandchildren.

This actually doesn't mean "cozy" to me, it's a gift to my sister.

When you just finished what you were working on, it is too late to start on another project and too early to stop for the day.

Very nice as well as using the cut off pieces that are to good to throw away

Clean up the saw wax the table and oil the oiling points on it or other equipment. I like to do saw maintenance at the ending of a day so the oil has time to trickle down into the bearings etc. That of course depends on the saw too.. as some don't really have anyplace to oil etc. Sometimes I'll start prepping the next project like sorting / selecting the board and pre-sand it etc. In my shop there is always something to do or needs to be done so I don't have too much problems with "what to do" more like what's most important to do now and what can wait a day or two, LOL

Halloween is over, and now we're turning our attention to the Holidays! We're continuing our tradition here at Scroll Saw Village by publishing our annual e-Book full of Christmas ornaments. This popular eBook was featured in the Holiday 2014 issue of Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts magazine. These ornament designs are exclusive to this eBook and designed by our fellow SSV members. The idea is, anyone can download the eBook in exchange for a donation to their favorite charity. Our hope is that we'd be able to raise some money for very worthy causes and provide some cool patterns at the same time. *** But we need your help! *** We need some volunteers to design some ornaments. Each designer will provide 5 patterns (no more, no less) I ask that the designs are not made available anywhere else (this gives value to the e-book) They have to be designed specifically by you (no posting other people's patterns) Designs must be emailed (or PM) to Travis by Wednesday, November 27th (info below) A few things to keep in mind: Religious and secular designs are accepted. Other religions/traditions also celebrate this time of year, so let's not forget them. Keep detail and size appropriate for an ornament. Don't submit copyrighted or licensed patterns. The due date will sneak up on you quicker than you think. Please get them to me ASAP so I have time to work on them. What do you get in exchange? Credit for your design. The warm fuzzy feeling that you're helping others in need. Submitting your ornaments: Email the ornaments directly to Travis (travis [at] scrollsawvillage.com) or PM me. Formats accepted are JPG, PNG. Please keep the pattern in black & white only (no gray). That way I can convert them more easily when putting together the ebook. I prefer Inkscape files (SVG) if you can. This is ideal if you know how to use Inkscape. That way I don't have to manually convert them.

Mighty fine.

Real nice, RJ

Just got another email showing another new tool.. Not a helical head but it does have several individual knives similar to those. Mine has been running on it's last leg for 5-6 years.. I don't use it a lot but sure is handy to have when I need one. I may have to look closely at this one as the price is right and with little use it might be my next new tool. LOL https://www.harborfreight.com/12-amp-6-in-benchtop-jointer-70303.html?slot_id=7&utm_source=dynamic yield&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2024_11_05_wk4524_new_tool_tuesday_0_60_ENGAGED&utm_content=New_Tool_Tuesday&itc=N

It looks like Harbor Freight is upping their image with these new Bauer tools, RJ

awesome work

very nice job

Yeah, or the motor which is what is the issues with mine. The circuit board on mine went bad and is NLA from Delta..I did find another source for one be at $200 I figured I'd just buy a new one instead. I wired it direct and bypassed this but was told it'd burn up the motor and I believe that is happening now as it doesn't maintain a speed when running.. It'll turn on and go faster than it should and then slow down lower than it should be.. still works for that occasional pass I make on it now and then but is probably a safety hazard to use it this way. IF it was a big floor model I'd probably put some effort into repairing it but it's just a small benchtop model and one I picked up back in 08 at a garage sale for $10. Has served me well until the chip went out a couple years ago.. and worked good for a while after wiring it direct.. I think when I get a 25% or one of those big 35% off coupons their will be a new tool in my shop and another tax write-off.. LOL

There isn't much to wear out on a jointer—a couple of bearings and the blades.

That got my attention. I have an older Delta with a bag filter that I want to change to a paper filter. No one makes a filter for it, so I am going to be watching this one closely.

These look great. Jerry

They look great! nice work..

Never ran into that problem. Always something to do in the shop. I am not one for maintenance so that is out. Never touched my scrollsaw for maintenance in my life time. I have run those saws plenty of hours over the years. If you call vac the dust up then yes that is what I do. I do have alot of home projects still going on. Come this winter I will get back into making pens. Love that. Scrollsaw days are just about nonexistent any more.

If my wife read this, she you say, "Clean up the shop!"

I followed Rick @Hudson River Rick post on the tension spring and what to do with it. Also saw Kevin's @kmmcrafts remarks for maintaining our scroll saws. I have a Pegas scroll saw for almost 3 years now and have never done any maintenance to it other than keeping it clean. Owners manual has nothing on maintenance. My question what can we do to keep our machines running smoothly? You say to spray some kind of lubricant on moving parts. I have silicone spray and also a dry lubricant. Which is best to use? Also, my biggest question is, what do you spray since most parts are covered. I grew up on a farm and my dad was a big proponet on keeping things librucated with either oil or grease, but that was easy to do because everyting was visible. Not much is visible on my scroll saw and I am one that is afraid to tear things down. Maybe point out where to spray lubricant. I understand on the thumb screst just putting it on the threads and not the tips. I would assume to spary a litten on paper towel then applying the spray on the paper towel. Other than that, I am puzzled what to do. Thanks, Jerry

I didn't either until years ago on a motorcycle forum. One of the members was an aircraft mechanic and said that the FAA would shut an airport down for having Simple Green anywhere on site due to the corrosive nature and I think the graphite came up in the same post; or maybe from somewhere else. Its been a hot minute since it went into my head. Anyway, the relevance was that since motorcycles are primarily made from aluminum anymore, don't use the stuff. There's too much else to worry about when riding than structural failures.

This is the oil I use. https://www.amazon.com/Supco-SUPCO-MO98-SPOUT-OILER/dp/B001UGQC2I/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_mod_primary_new?crid=3EFI5AD2MXHX&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.3aZErExeIozLC8VVBJKY43k-iyqEwumvBAIxpHiZvrsgfZR57s7a18CR4UYE5-r27vCAtqHaRoe6q1BbqIQUmXweDpL7LxOrXtiQyQaRD0KzMCl2EIs9eDMsc-A3WR0LcB1UqiCBYI76hD7rQXmeN1-mO7k6vPwsMsuV5mjay4kZX9_brdop8SJj7YSYZxG4JUyLl3InsSQUuuwpAIJ4Rg.fdB8Am-eGi2nlwja_2ff9hSUifwepl4a7h9WzKnVEB8&dib_tag=se&keywords=zoom+spout+oiler+turbine+oil+norvey&qid=1730659412&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=norvey+zoom+spout+oiler%2Caps%2C312&sr=8-1

I'm old-fashioned. I still use a light oil like 3n1 but my favorite is still Howes. I use it very sparingly though. I used synthetic grease on all the many needle bearings.

I found a source for micro fine powdered Teflon, a piano maintenance site. They sell a 1 oz container for a reasonable price. It's been years since I bought my last supply. https://www.howardpianoindustries.com/micro-fine-ptfe-powder/ I use an artist brush to apply the power, a little goes a long way. On my Hegner I used it on the tension lever cam, the area where the blade holders rock , the back areas that rock and a light dusting above the bearing (so that oil carries some into the bearings). My one word of caution is to never use any "detergent" oil, anything that says it will clean as it lubes. Detergent oils will absorb moisture from the air and become gummy, necessitating reapplying more oil, ad nauseum.

Count me in!

I just posted this on another thread but I'll put it here as well since this one might get better search results in the future. I spray where the pin goes through the rod up by the lever marked in black on the photo and also spray in the spring area circled in the blue color. Also the rod part up above where the spring is as that rod goes through a small hole right there. The sliding part that moves up and down is down at its lowest point when the tension is released so sometimes I'll put just a drop of spray on each side just above that sliding part and work the lever back and forth. Also in the other photo where you see the side of the lever I hit that metal bushing on each side. You'll be amazed at how much smoother the tensioning lever works after doing this. A little on the threads of the thumb screws makes them work so smooth too.. just be careful not to get it on the clamping part of the thumb screw or you may never get a blade to hold again, LOL. Pull the end caps ( swivels ) out of the end of the thumb screws and use some dielectric grease just a very tiny wipe onto the rubber O-ring to keep the swivel spinning nicely. Do not use a petroleum type on it like Vaseline as it'll make the O-ring swell eventually and cause it to not swivel at all.. The tough part is you only need just a drop on all of this but it's hard not to get spray all over.. I usually will cover the table with paper towels.. and also have one in hand. Really would work best if you could get some spray on a Q-tip or small brush to get it where you need it without getting it all over.. Trust me it's not fun if you get the stuff on the thumb screws etc.. LOL.. But I always like the challenge so I just spray it but as I said.. maybe spray a little on a Q-tip would be much smarter. I like to use the PB Blaster Garage Door dry spray lube.. it last a long time working nice and smooth. https://www.farmandfleet.com/products/369279-blaster-garage-door-lubricant.html?blaintm_source=google&blaintm_medium=lia&setstore=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQjwvpy5BhDTARIsAHSilyn1PMwgvSyWCyovpNO4IzrcynhqU7wAyMjSvEbt2BTn95rKU3jwvEkaAk4BEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

Didn't know these things about on aluminum.. Not sure what the spray I use has in it but it has worked real well for me for the last 7 years so must not be a problem.. Anyway this is good info to know.

No graphite, dry or wet, on any aluminum parts ever. Graphite will galvanically react to the aluminum and eat it away. Also, don't clean aluminum with Simple Green; again, it will eat it away. Keep the bearings and bushings properly lubed; everything clean of dust, grease, etc. Scrollsaws are low maintenance in my experience. The Craftsman saw I have has motor brushes so check them every so often and replace when needed. My Hegner really only has arm bushings to worry about. If you have maintained farm equipment, scrollsaws will be a breeze.

Jerry, never use silicone on woodworking machines. Silicone can interfere with finishes. It can cause fisheyes in your finish.

I'm interested just need to get inspiration.

So last year, we had 4 designers who contributed 20 new ornament patterns to the Ornaments For Charity ebook. This year, I'd like to beat last year's submissions. I know it can be done because we've done it in the past. How great would it be to get 20 or more new ornament patterns in this year's book? All skill levels are welcome. The goal is to create a really cool eBook that will benefit those in need. I'm designing. Who's with me!?

This site is home to some really decent helpful people and I will be stopping by to see what everyone has been up to and see their latest work. I think the reason I started scroll sawing is because I wanted to see if I could actually make anything and then I got hooked. When I start a new hobby I always go all in and then after awhile it's off to something new. I'm an old fart and want to try as many new things as possible while I'm still breathing air. Who knows, maybe someone might want to try out casting with resin after they see a few things. Been really into using alcohol inks creating what they call the Petri effect and it's very addictive.

Good to see the progress you made along your scrollsaw journey and to share those projects and progression along that journey with us. Also good to see your new hobby and projects and to see and hear from your experiences there. Many folks get stuck on doing one thing and stay with it, many times their whole career or hobby because they learned that and got comfortable with that so then they don't want to step out of their comfort zone. While this site is for scroll saw stuff there are other sections that you could post your progress of the new hobby if you'd like to.. I'm sure many others would also love to see that progress as well. If you don't that's fine too but do check in now and then and say hi. This site is like a online family and it's sad to make friendships and then they bail out and never hear from them again. I myself haven't really done any scroll work this entire year.. I have been playing with the CNC and laser's but those are forbidden in the scrolling community, but I still hang out here as I've gained many friends here and enjoy the conversations to be had here still. Whatever you do, enjoy the journey

Good luck with whatever you next decide on. Marg

Terrible loss to the scrolling community

I too met her a couple times and she was a great talent. Her work will live on forever. Rest in Peace. Prayers for her family.