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This is a Steve Good pattern. My 7 yr old Granddaughter beat me three times. Oh well, that's what Grandpa's are for.

A modification to a Sue Mey pattern

You could try using a non-slip pad under the foot pedal. Tom

Quick story. My Lady went to NC to be with her daughter to help during recovery from hip replacement surgery. Her Granddaughter also came to help. Her daughter also has a son and their house has only two beds and a sofa for sleeping purposes. Fortunately, the next-door neighbor had a spare room and offered it to my Lady to use at no cost for the nineteen days she was there. This neighbor has visited Africa, and they have a collection of African Art pieces on display. Upon returning home, my Lady asked if I could make a Scroll Saw African Elephant, that she could send them as a thank you for their hospitality. I searched, found, and procured a ‘Woodenmann’ Intarsia Pattern of an African Elephant bust that I felt was appropriate, and I interrupted a Christmas project that was in progress to make the Elephant. A finished ‘Woodenmann’ piece was shown online, that was done in two contrasting, dark and light, colored wood’s. I decided I would prefer to do it in a single, “more” Elephant colored, wood choice. I had just gotten a few pieces of Teak in the box of cutoffs I purchased, and it seemed like it would be a good choice. Of course, the Tusks are Aspen, and the Eyes are ‘Sharpie’ Black - sorry, no Eboney in my wood collection. Due to the limited amount of Teak that was available, I was not able to arrange all the grain-direction as I would have preferred. However, the wood has enough character that it is not too distracting or noticeable to an untrained eye. As I’m sure you are all aware, Teak is quite hard, so the cutting was slow. I did a decent job of cutting as the fit-up was quite good, with just some minor sanding adjustments needed. However, even though I attempted to cut to the outside edge of the lines to maintain the pieces full size, due to the fit-up shrinkage of this “top to bottom” pattern, the length of the Tusks had to be adjusted significantly. Shaping and fitting of the two Tusks took more time than almost all the other pieces, put together. I did add a 1/8” thick shim to elevate the head and trunk. I tapered the shim towards the bottom of the trunk. The backer is 1/8” thick BB Ply with edges painted Black. The assembly was protected with five coats of Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish spray with light sanding and buffing between coats. This will be shipped out early next week with a thankyou note from my Lady. Comments and critiques always welcome.

This is NOT a scroll saw project, so please remove it if necessary Travis. I'm posting it because I came home yesterday morning after having coffee with "THE BOYS", and I walked in the house and saw this displayed in our living room. Ann Marie, my wife, took down all the Halloween deorations and she said the house looked too dull, so she had some very small hay bales that she uses in our NATIVITY scene and some small pumpkinsand she placed them in the stake truck to add a little FALL/Thanksgiving to our home. The truck is a pattern from WOODSMITH magazine. I made this about 5 years ago and it never looked so good. Rick

EX21 is mounted on a 2x4 mobile base, and the pedal is attached to that. It is the perfect height for me so that the weight of my foot holds the switch on.

I have three foot pedals; a HF Model, an Olsen, and an expensive one from Advanced Machinery. I've never had to use anything with them, the factory surface works for me. That being said, I agree with Tom about the non slip pad. I keep a roll of NS shelf liner on hand, for many different applications. I've used the self liner underneath many machines, from 40 gal air compressors to a small machine for notching brass title plates, it has always worked like a charm. Good luck and let us know how it goes.

I mounted mine to an 8x12" piece of plywood. I have a 6" long piece of 2x4 fastened to it so my heel is raised up a bit and my foot sits pretty flat on the pedal. It sometimes slides around a little, but it's sort of captured in a narrow space between my scroll saw stand and the leg of a bench. Works fine for me.

Done by request for a favorite niece.

I sit on a fairly high stool, with foot pedal on floor my legs get sore. One day while in Lowes I found a couple of folding stools, bought 2 of them. One to rest my left foot on and the other to attach foot pedal to. I am now more comfortable. See attached photos. Stools are 8 1/2" high, 8 1/2"deep, 12" wide. Jerry

Based on this Ray mentioned it some time ago, I did the same. It is easy and well worth the effort.

One thing that helped me greatly is, I took both of my foot switches apart and re-routed the wire that came out of the side. It was always in the way. I drilled a hole in the front of the switch so that both wires were in alignment. A very easy fix.

She sent me a picture of it in her alcove, above her shoe rack. We might get a new scroller with a nudge from this. She wants to show it to her parents. Her dad has just retired and is looking for a new hobby. And he had previously asked about my scrolling hobby.

Can you fix it (clamp or zip tie) it to the leg of the stand?

I have some non-slip pad, I will try that. Thanks

Excellent job Frank. Having done many over the years I can appreciate the work involved and the attempts to get that grain just right. And whether it is 10 pieces or a 100 pieces, there is always one or two that will drive you nuts. Keep it up!

I did my first "real" Intarsia piece this past July. Shortly thereafter, I made a bunch of painted Christmas segmented pieces for my family. I used Intarsia techniques to make the segmental pieces more sculptured. Since then I have done a few more Intarsia pieces...this Elephant is number 6. Each was a learning experience. Unlike my SS flat Art Panel projects that I would have multiple project working at the same time (i.e.; cutting, painting, framing, etc.), complicated Intarsia pieces, like this African Elephant, takes a lot more time to produce a finished piece, and so far I can only manage one at a time.

The grain in the left side ears are oreinted diagonally top to bottom right to left. Due to the wood size I had, I could not oreient the grain in the right side ear in the opposite diagonal. Thw wood coloration is stronger than the grain so, as I said, not noticable to an untrained eye.

Just got a picture back from the recipient of these coasters (gift for a high school friend). 1/4" elm laminated to cork coasters, one coat BLO, #1 Polar blades for most of the cutting, #2/0 Polar blades for the man. Thin coaster is the drop out from the thick. ( I love twofers ).

If my wife read this, she you say, "Clean up the shop!"

Clean up the saw wax the table and oil the oiling points on it or other equipment. I like to do saw maintenance at the ending of a day so the oil has time to trickle down into the bearings etc. That of course depends on the saw too.. as some don't really have anyplace to oil etc. Sometimes I'll start prepping the next project like sorting / selecting the board and pre-sand it etc. In my shop there is always something to do or needs to be done so I don't have too much problems with "what to do" more like what's most important to do now and what can wait a day or two, LOL