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This project was cut, but the shaping, finishing and assembly process was put on hold while I made the African Elephant and then the Cute Pink Jacketed Bear. I made this project for myself to join other SS Christmas pieces I use to decorate the outside of my home between Thanksgiving and New Year’s Day. This will be mounted on a common Mailbox structure located in front of my neighbor and my Duplex. The pattern is a coloring book page that is free to download from various sites on Pinterest. A similar, but slightly different, color image titled Noel can also be found but no specific credit is given. The pattern was cut from one piece if 3/4” thick premium pine, shaped and sanded like doing Intarsia, asssembled and mounted on 3/8" thk Plywood backer, then painted with my Air Brush using Artist Acrylic Air Bush paints and protected with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish spray. I made and mounted a simple wood stand on the back side, that will be screwed to the mailbox structure, that was painted Black. With this project finished in time to decorate for Christmas, I can now slow down and concentrate on what my next project will be…of which there are too many in the hopper. Comments and critiques always welcome.

How about a foot stool. I have to go back to the foot Dr again. Since I had scrap purple heart I made is a second lab sample "purple foot". It happen to be a real foot condition. Thanks all for the stool idea. I used tooth pics for the legs. I made some labels for the pill bottles.

This is a pattern by Steve Shears @Wood Logos Studio. He was the sponsor of last month's PAM project (FB). Although my project didn't "win" Steve generously gave all entries a couple of patterns. Woods used: Orange Osage, Spruce, Aspen, Canarywood, Quilted Maple, Wenge, Aromatic Cedar and the tip of a white pencil crayon. Finished with one coat of Osmo satin. I may mount it on a slab of Elm.

I can tell you that mine sounds nothing like that, quite the opposite, mine is quite quiet and a whole lot smoother than his. I don't know why he has the feet upside down, maybe to bolt it to the stand but really you don't need that. Mine sits on the bench and like I said, vibration free. Interesting, I'll try to keep track, but mine is set up for mostly fret work on 1/8 inch stock. But I've also upgraded the blade holders to the Pegas, that helped quite a bit also.

I tried something new for me. This is a SueMey pattern. I have been wanting to try some "relief" cutting. Where you cut part of a picture at an angle so it will stand proud of the rest of the picture. I started with the verse, then cut the tree with a 2.5° slant. When I finished cutting the tree and saw how it looked, I decided the heart should stand out proud, also. I had some bloopers, but nothing serious. My intent was to remove the tree and stain it, but the root area was just too fragile to mess with. So I removed the pattern from the tree and the heart and colored them, leaving the pattern on the rest so I would not get stain it. It Worked pretty well. Anyway, I am happy with it and will do better next time. It is cut in 1/2" Oak.

Whew,, I just looked at Steve Good’s you tube, very interesting, and it also opened up a whole world of scroll saw videos,,, could spend hours there,,, learning

That's very nice!

Kevin when I looked for the maker I saw the original link and it said the scrollsaw was made in the USA. I have no idea about patents and all that. After some more digging I saw that they sold out and now make tools around the world so maybe they had another saw before this one and it was USA made. All these saws are clones.

You say that the motor was "hot", what do you mean? I had to look up what was too hot for bearings for motors at work, according to the information I could find, the upper limit was 140* F. I used a non-contact thermometer to read the temps. One machine had a single bearing that was hotter than any of the others, it ran at 95*, the rest ran at 85*. I kept track of the temps during the weekly maintenance. I used the powdered Teflon on that bearing and got a 5* drop in the temp.

Yes, to me, it is a variation of inlay, which I love to do. You just adjust the angle of the cut to get the fit that stops it at the height or depth you want. I also just finished this American Flag (a Steve Good pattern), only I inlaid the stars as opposed to just cutting them out and having a backer behind them.

I am concerned about toxic finishings to wood. This is why I would like to use only natural non-toxic products as olive oil or beewax, specially for toys and chopping or cutting boards. I intended to use raw beewax, but I am afraid that I would have to mix it with some kind of oil for a better application. Turpentine essence is not an option, as well as oils with solvents. What is your experience with beewax and what other products you use with it? My only requirement is not to use anything toxic. Thanks!

Man they sure are coming out with a lot of woodworking stuff lately.. https://www.harborfreight.com/35-gallon-dust-collector-with-2-micron-canister-filter-70757.html

Yes, many people have done this. I looked at it and decided that since I didn't know what any adapter I made would do to the airflow, I didn't want to spend the time, effort, and money to make it happen. My vacuum filter and separator work fine, and I don't have any tools that have 4-inch ports.

Nice touch Paul. Adds a lot to the finished project. Jeff

It is not a wrench per-se. It is a holder to hold the blade clamp so you can tighten and loosen to change a blade. hegner has this Rbi has this and Jet has this and here is Jets video and is same as the Baeleigh saw. You can preload blades so that you just change entire blade clamp with blade already set in it. Saves time. It is built into the blade holding rack on the edge. Not sure I like where it is mounted but I believe you could make something more accessible pretty easily if you put your mind to it. https://www.bing.com/videos/riverview/relatedvideo?q=jet+scrollsaw+instructions&mid=D4EEDBE7466418FBB4AED4EEDBE7466418FBB4AE&FORM=VIRE

All finishes sold in the US are nontoxic when cured. The key word here is cured, which is not the same thing as dry. Wood is toxic, and some are more toxic than others. I have been up to my eyeballs in this issue since opening my Etsy shop in 2017. I use acrylic paint, shellac, polyurethane, and a custom wax blend with a mineral oil base. All of these have a very short cure time. Oil-based polyurethane has a long cure time of 2-4 weeks. Most oil-based finishes have the same 2-4 weeks cure time.

You can buy it in a gallon jug on Amazon. It's much cheaper.

Beeswax is commonly mixed with mineral oil, which is food safe and found in the pharmacy section of your favorite super market, with the laxatives.

Another great piece. I wish we lived closer so I could get some airbrush lessons. I don't do well with video only.

The one thing that caught my attention was the built in wrench for changing the blade. Something to consider.

very nice

From Barbara As usual beautiful work. Love your work

Wow, that's awesome!

There is a small trend of doctors offices that like little trinkets. So I had a foot doctor visit today and made a foot drawer. This I guess is part of a micro drawer series? She the Dr. loved it. The nurse assistant liked it also. So I guess I need to make 4 more. Started with 2"x2"x12" which ends up at 1.5" x1.5" and it fits in 4.5" long. Wood type is Mrytle. Finish is Arm R Seal. She did not say how she is gonna use it. She says it will be on her desk.

The Seyco is a much better saw than the Dewalt... for instance, the Seyco upper arm lifts up out of the way when changing blades and feeding blades.. DeWalt does too but you have to hold the arm up with one hand while trying to feed balde with other and or get a device to hold the arm up while you feed the blade through a hole with both hands. The Seyco are you lift up and it'll stay up on it's own until you pull it back down. The Seyco you can rotate the motor via slots and screws which will adjust the blade position for a more or less agressive of a cut.. DeWalt some of the others do not have that option...Seyco has great customer service and Ray or Mike will walk you through repair diagnostics etc right over the phone with you. Rarely any customer support from other brands.. Other than Hawk and Hegner.. Pegas and Jet have decent customer support depending on who you contact. Anyway between the Seyco and the DeWalt.. Seyco hands down is the better option.. Look at the price of a brand new Seyco.. https://seyco.com/product/seyco-st-21-swing-tilt-scroll-saw-allow-1-week-for-shipping/ it's higher priced because it has better features etc.. in the land of scroll saws you really do kinda get what you pay for when looking at new saws.. this is why I always suggest looking at quality used.. That 1998 Hawk I have brand new back in 98 was $1200.. My new one back in 2018 was over $1700.. Bushton Manufacturing recently raised the prices and those BM series Hawk saws now are close to $2000 now I think, not cheap saws but they're made more for commercial type use and they have a lot of the bells and whistles so to speak that the entree and mid level saws lack. Maybe some others will chime in on the two saws as well.. Everyone has a bit of different opinions of various saws.. This is my take on the two. Since you're new to the scroll saw world it might be good to look up some various brand and reviews from real users on YouTube, many of the YouTube videos will show how to change blades and other useful tips and tricks. Steve Good has quite a few saw reviews on his blog.. just do a search for steve good scroll saw blog.. tons of info and also many many free project patterns etc.

My daughter uses Facebook… I’ll ask her tomorrow, and see what she can find,

DeWalt saws are currently on sale too so that is something to consider.. $399.99.. if scroll sawing isn't for you... used ones sell for that price fairly easy.. They really are the best bang for the buck when getting into the hobby because of the resale if sawing isn't for you.. just another thought. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-20-in-Variable-Speed-Scroll-Saw-DW788/203070202?source=shoppingads&locale=en-US&srsltid=AfmBOoqN2RuidgdaC1fuGs1MPk3yBwNUm7-gKBr8rRJnqevk-kLlXYKI4Io Do you have any family or friends that use Facebook that'd send the seller your info or collect info from seller for you? Just do note that I believe it's against FB terms of use to ask for phone numbers and other personal info.. they want you to communicate through FB for deals in case a deal goes sour they have all the info between the two parties if messages are done on the platform..

That Seyco saw is about an 1:30 minutes southwest from me I think. That would be my saw of choice too honestly.. Never know he may meet up halfway or something too.. Both saws are made in the same factory but there are differences.. The Seyco has a larger table top but the King in my opinion has a better angle rack and pinion set up.. South Haven is a bit closer to you I think too. Either way they're both great saws.

Maybe it's the speed I cut and the thickness of the wood plus the angle all together, I still think the hawlk is great to use for cutting patterns,I purchased the other saw mainly because I like to make the bowls. I will be shur to clean out the motor and speed pod on the next pattern. I also want to give the new saw a good deal of use at least for the next few months.

Beautiful! Glad I zoomed in. The beak is really cool.

Well, yes it does matter where it was made.. I wish it was made in the USA but it's not and I knew that.. wasn't going to argue about where it's made... my point was it's the same saw as a Jet.. I've used both the 18" and 22" Jet scroll saws and they have a unique upper blade clamping system with no thumb screws or anything to mess with.. The lower clamp is none other than a round barrel clamp exact same deal RBI Hawk used in the early saws which I've also used.. The upper clamp you just slide the blade into the slot and put the tension lever over.. it tensions and clamps at the same time with the one lever.. pretty neat set up.. Good quality saw.. and if one doesn't like that round clamp or the upper one you can put the Pegas chucks on it and have the same as all those other saws in a different color.. Way better saw than the HF China made saw or the newer China made Excalibur. My reason for knowing it was the same saw is Jet has a patent on that upper blade chuck mechanism.. or maybe it has ran out of the patent timeline.. but since it is identical other than color I would think they wouldn't go through with all the tooling etc.. to exactly copy Jets saw especially when there was a patent on the clamp.

Simple and perfect!

Scrappile,, I do like the Seyco..Unforunaately I don’t use Facebook, if someone coiuld get the sellers contact into for me, I would sure appreciate it,

Not sure what you are talking about because I am sure you heard of Grizzly tools. This company started out more in the metal working tools and industrial sized. probably when they got bought out they switched to home owner tools. I know when they were at woodworking shows they showed large tools such as bandsaws and things like that. 25 years in the tool business is not that long. https://www.toolsadvisor.org/where-are-grizzly-tools-made/

@JTTHECLOCKMAN Okay, my bad, I got confused (Which happens more and more frequently). I thought we were referring to Griizzy tools for some reason. Guess my mind was stuck in some other thread.

If the saw was American made would make a huge difference. Especially for parts and spending money here in USA so it does make a difference. Unfortunately tools made in the USA are a thing of the past. $$$ controls supply's. Maybe this company has a good handle on parts too. You just do not hear much about their scrollsaws.

I don't care where it's made, it's the same saw as the Jet 22" saw which is a dam good saw.. Jet seems to be the only one nowadays that sell individual parts so if a bearing goes bad you don't have to buy the whole link arm assembly for over $130.. you can just buy a $10 bearing to replace the bad one..This saw design had one set of bearings in the inside of the saws that take a lot of the beating and that one is always the culprit in my experience.. while the others may be getting some slop.. they could go for another round or two especially if you regreased while it's apart for the bad bearing.. My complaint of the 22" is the short distance of table support in front of the blade.. The 18" saw would be my choice.. The Grizzly saw comes out of the same factory with a much larger table and much better price.. That is where I would get my next saw from if I was looking to buy this style of saw new. It seems to have the adjustable slotted motor mount where you adjust the blade aggression and it has that huge table..

Probably going to pass one the Rockwell…. It is just an inverted jig saw. Though the seller did offer to throw in a Dremel, new in box, for $10.

https://baileigh.com/woodworking/

It was when they first started out made in the USA all tools. I know this for fact because they use to come to woodworking shows and sell their products and touted the fact they were USA made. I remember when they first hit the scene. The link I first supplied stated that. The second link shows that the company was sold to JPW tools so they can now be made anywhere. As mentioned it looks exactly like a Jet with a different paint job. Same price range too. best I can find.

Humm. Are they made in America or assembled in America? I have always assumed their tools were made in other countries.

Well now I did a little more digging and it seems that that company has been sold and is now part of the JPW industries which makes Jets stuff and many others. So it could very well be a clone off assembly line in Tawain. The first link I posted has no date on it so they started out with good intentions but $$$ took over. https://shoptoolreviews.com/news/jpw-industries-acquires-baileigh-industrial/35648/ I read this https://www.toolsadvisor.org/where-is-baileigh-equipment-made/

I have had a 22 inch jet for about 8 years when they first came out, like it very much, no problems, ( knock on wood ), but i don't use it every day like others, RJ

Well, in the link it said: I'll go out on a limb and say that saw is made in the same Taiwan factory that the Jet, King, Pegas, Grizzly, and etc are made.. This looks just exactly like a rebranded Jet to me.. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/jet-22-variable-speed-scroll-saw-with-foot-switch-1-ph-120v-jwss-22b?variant=43401545580682&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAouG5BhDBARIsAOc08RTmkC-4lxo_oaLCraV9ERdfFXdtZF9Zg8fS4eRs6FAsvrGHg7cxKBoaAmcREALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds I'm not knocking the quality, just merely pointing out that I have strong doubts this is actually made in the USA.. The Jet saw has proven to be a good saw as is those others have also.. your money buy what you want but you're getting basically the same saw as most of these other brands. Each have slightly different tables and dust port etc but the guts of the saw is they same thing in my believe.. While buying this is supporting a local USA business.. but then again.. Buy Pegas from Denny and your doing the same so there is that bag of worms too..

I purchased the warranty because a lot of things I cut are 1/2 in. and at a 30deg. angle, I noticed the motor on the hawk was getting hot after cutting a couple of rings, no issues with the motor on the Bauer. I figured after two years I should have enough bowls cut.

I use to watch a show with dad that every thing was made with hand tools, he had a scroll saw that was driven by the feet, like the sewing machine my mom had when I was 6.

They are a USA company out of Wisconsin. They started in 1999. They are well known in metal and woodworking world of tools. All their tools are made in the USA including that scrollsaw. I would buy this one over Bauer or Grizzly if looking for that type saw. Cheap is not always the point of purchase. Easy to get parts here. https://www.toolsadvisor.org/where-are-baileigh-tools-made/

You might want to take a look at the newer Grizzly saw as grizzly has their Christmas sale going on right now.. It's basically the same as a Pegas, King, Excalibur type saw with a bigger table etc. Someone in another post said it's made in the same place as those others as well but that is only what I've read and have no hard evidence of it so I'd check on that first.. https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzly-21-variable-speed-scroll-saw-with-foot-pedal/g0969

The bigger table is a big deal to me and that's one of the reasons I ended up buying the Grizzly last summer. So far, I have no complaints about it, though I'm rather new to scrolling and have used only one other saw, the Wen 3922. The Grizzly is so much easier to use - especially when doing fretwork. Moving the blade from one hole to the next and re-tensioning is a breeze. It has only been available for a bit over a year, so how it holds up long term is yet to be learned. It was also on sale when I bought it for about the same price it is now. Like many online stores, Grizzly will send you a coupon code for 5% off if you leave something in your cart. That brings the price down another $28. It's not red, but I rather like the green color and the label on the side of the machine says it is made in Taiwan.

Based on my experience with these type of saws.. I don't think it'll be trouble free in 500 hours.. I'd say it'd probably be a miracle if it made it to 300 hours without the need for some bearings or some other part.. Maybe I've had lemons and or maybe my style of cutting or how I run the saw but I'd say around 250 - 300 ish hours you're going to start getting the bearing knocks.. One of these saws might make it much longer before they completely go to pot.. I don't know how long one could actually run one of these with the knocking and added vibration before it actually became unusable.. I've always taken them apart and cleaned / regreased or replaced parts when I get to that point.. which for me was around 250 - 300 hours on my DeWalt the two times I rebuilt it and same scenario with my Excalibur.. this is just my experience, maybe I'm harder on these than others are or maybe I got a lemon and also replacement parts were not great.. but based on my personal experience for whatever that's worth.. this is how these type saws last for how I use them.. your mileage may vary a little or a lot.. I just don't see these making it that many hours.. BTW there is a huge discrepancy in hours from those that say they are in the shop for X hours a week and actual saw runtime hours via a hour meter hooked up to the footswitch on the saw.. Type of cutting makes a huge difference in hours too.. ie if I am cutting puzzles instead of fretwork type stuff I can run 2 times the hours in a saw sitting time.. there is way more down time when swapping the blade out to the next hole to cut than one might think.. Doing fretwork it's tough to get 10 - 15 hours on a saw in a weeks time.. doing puzzles etc.. is much more easily done.