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Had a lot of fun with this one. Pattern is in the library, I did some quick on-the-fly modifications as I went. Pegas MG#02 blades, Minwax Ebony for backer and frame, Natural for project. "Awesomeness" is rattlecan sparkly silver spray. I used some scrap cardboard to block off the areas I wanted left Ebony, sprayed, and I guess my measurements were correct.

Same here. My new Bauer is really, really smooth. I have it bolted to an HF universal stand and there is almost no vibration and it cuts really well. I will probably never put on nearly the amount of hours scrolling that some of you do/will, but for the money this is a gem for me so far. I'm really happy with it.

I tried something new for me. This is a SueMey pattern. I have been wanting to try some "relief" cutting. Where you cut part of a picture at an angle so it will stand proud of the rest of the picture. I started with the verse, then cut the tree with a 2.5° slant. When I finished cutting the tree and saw how it looked, I decided the heart should stand out proud, also. I had some bloopers, but nothing serious. My intent was to remove the tree and stain it, but the root area was just too fragile to mess with. So I removed the pattern from the tree and the heart and colored them, leaving the pattern on the rest so I would not get stain it. It Worked pretty well. Anyway, I am happy with it and will do better next time. It is cut in 1/2" Oak.

This project was cut, but the shaping, finishing and assembly process was put on hold while I made the African Elephant and then the Cute Pink Jacketed Bear. I made this project for myself to join other SS Christmas pieces I use to decorate the outside of my home between Thanksgiving and New Year’s Day. This will be mounted on a common Mailbox structure located in front of my neighbor and my Duplex. The pattern is a coloring book page that is free to download from various sites on Pinterest. A similar, but slightly different, color image titled Noel can also be found but no specific credit is given. The pattern was cut from one piece if 3/4” thick premium pine, shaped and sanded like doing Intarsia, asssembled and mounted on 3/8" thk Plywood backer, then painted with my Air Brush using Artist Acrylic Air Bush paints and protected with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish spray. I made and mounted a simple wood stand on the back side, that will be screwed to the mailbox structure, that was painted Black. With this project finished in time to decorate for Christmas, I can now slow down and concentrate on what my next project will be…of which there are too many in the hopper. Comments and critiques always welcome.

Hey Everyone! In this fun scroll saw project video, we make a beautiful Miniature Nativity Scene to kick off Christmas Designs on the channel. The design is cut from a Cedar Fence Picket and celebrates the very true meaning of Christmas. The pattern is from the newest issue of Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Magazine (Winter 2024 #97) by Fox Chapel Publishing! Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate

Sealing with lacquer is fine. I was just thinking about the smell. It will linger for a long time because you keep drawers closed. I still would use shellac spray inside and not worry about smells transferring to objects. I use this stuff when spraying waterbased lacquer. It acts just like Nitro except that smell is far less irritating and cleanup is a snap. Dries just as fast. Each coat melts into the last one. https://www.targetcoatings.com/shop/water-based-lacquers/ General Finishes has a product called Enduro but again you need a spray gun. There is no rattle can water based lacquers that I know of. If you can spray outdoors then nitro lacquer would be easy. Plenty of choices of rattle can I use Deft the most but have used Watco too. I like Satin look. Not a big fan of high gloss on works like that. Remember lacquer dries in about 3 hours but cure time is at least 48 hours. The longer the better you let sit before you wrap them it will be helpful. Lacquer does not yellow like poly does and the reason I like it alot. Plus ease of applying. If you want to use poly then a wipe on poly is probably best but will need sanding and to do that I use nonwoven pads which are just like steel wool but do not break down and leave specs

the first scroll saw i bought was from harbor freight, it broke in the first week. then i bought a wen, it made me want to keep scroll sawing. either one you need to get the adapter for pinless blades. I was going to buy a dewalt and the price went way up, saw that i could get a remanufactured excalibur or King 21" from amazon for about the same price. I'm so glade i did, 3yrs and the only thing i changed was the blade holders. bought the cheaper ones first then got the pegas, it knocked the vibration to less then half, i dont know about any other saws

Fascinating thread. Amazing how far off topic it goes. Local BDI for ice cream (Bridge Drive Inn). Brandied Peach Upside down, please. An upside down is a very thick milkshake handed to you upside down.

Very nice work all around. I did alot of that type relief cutting as you put it when I was making shelves like this. Also magazine racks and things like that. It gives the project some depth and adds a different look. What I want to learn to do is work like Dave Monk does where inlays designs that are flat in the project. One of these days I really want to try that because I have a few ideas I would like to do. I think that stuff is cool and his boxes are beautiful.

Thx, now i want a banna split sundae, RJ

I did a video on this a few years ago on my blog about how to make your own mineral oil and beeswax.. Have to make sure you don't heat up too hot or you'll have a fire going.. Here in the USA you can buy this at some of the local woodcrafts type stores already made up.. though a small container is pricey and making it is easy. I'm sure there is probably other videos on this topic on YouTube.. https://www.kevskrafts.com/blog

Not new to woodworking. Honey do, boxes and small cabinets and some carving. Just had knee replacement and its getting cool outside, so time to move in to the shop and keep up with dust production. I am new to scrolling, going to be a good winter.

Hello, I am Akitaguy and I am a very amature scroll sawer. I have been working on 3D ornaments for my family for Christmas. I hope to learn how to improve and advance. I just retired this year and started back on the saw. My kids bought me a Craftsman 16" 315216260 years ago, but the upper clamp wore out and I can't find a replacement. Looking forward to talking and learning.

This is a pattern by Steve Shears @Wood Logos Studio. He was the sponsor of last month's PAM project (FB). Although my project didn't "win" Steve generously gave all entries a couple of patterns. Woods used: Orange Osage, Spruce, Aspen, Canarywood, Quilted Maple, Wenge, Aromatic Cedar and the tip of a white pencil crayon. Finished with one coat of Osmo satin. I may mount it on a slab of Elm.

Good afternoon, My name is Justin. I live in Phoenix, and I got into scroll sawing 2-3;months ago. My late Grandpa made stuff out of wood. He never sold anything, it was just a hobby and he just gave the projects to his kids/grandkids. I have been missing him a lot lately, so I got a scroll saw and started making things as a way to feel close to him.

In honor of Veteran's Day, this is my display at ArtCrafters.

Those look great.

2 quarts is what I think. If you are just doing outside. Depends on how many coats you apply and you do not want to spray too thick but do not want orange peel either. That stuff flows on evenly. Just need to mix well They have videos on their site of how to use. Jeff is a great teacher and any questions just call and ask him. By the way I have always used the 6000. They just came out with the 7000 which is a higher thicker material. I called them about a month ago about it and was told it works just like the 6000 but you can get away with less coats because of the thicker material. Now it probably needs a different setting of the gun and maybe even a wider nozzle but not sure. i told them maybe at some time down the road I would give a try.

The Hardest part is determining what angle gives you the best results. That, for me, is pretty much trial and error On scrap wood. Also the direction of cut is important (CW or CCW).

waiting, waiting, waiting. there we go, downloaded, I think. Ahh, yes very nice. I, would use DEFT Probably sim-gloss

Thank you! I have never used a water based lacquer. Actually didn’t know there was such a thing, but I like the idea. Does it dry quickly like regular lacquer? Would there be a problem with sealing the inside with lacquer as well to simplify things?

Now that sounds great.

I am the same way when people ask but then I get the pushback well not everyone can afford a top of the line saw. Well buy saws like this and then you are spending time rebuilding and if you can not then money on someone who can. Today there are so many highend saws showing up in the market pages because I believe scrollsawing is just hitting a flat spot and will it ever jump again who knows. But these points should be made known. The numbers are more staggering if that person really wants to get into or at least give it a try to make some cash and give scrolling a legit try. Oh well to each their own as Ray would say. Now I am seeing why and I can not remember his name because I do not see him here often any more. (the guy who did all the animal puzzles) he went through so many Dewalt saws and was mind blowing.

Country Dairy always comes out with Peppermint Stick’ ice cream for Christmas….Real Peppermint sticks broken up in the ice cream…And the sticks are grown in local orchards….

Well that is why I always try to push folks to look for a good used high end saw for the same or less money.. there is only about 4-6 bearings in a hawk or Hegner.. and pretty much a standard sized ones that can be had at a local hardware type store.. and then there is like 20 of them on a parallel link arm saw like the Excalibur and those style of saws.. and those are oddball sized that for me anyway, I've had to special order them.. Lot's more pivot points and a tiny bit of slop in each pivot point creates a lot of slop out at the blade end.. This is why I have 2 Hawks a Hegner and a Excalibur.. the EX does have a few reason why I keep it around because of the style of cutting they give.. and that the saw tilts rather than the table for angle cutting. What limited projects I do cut on the EX I still wear it out about every 2-3 years..

I haven't used or looked to closely at the little LED light strings. If they are wired in parallel, then just nip the un-needed off and tape the ends. Do this powered off, of course. The driver may not like to see a short.

Maybe so but still if you want to say out of those 5 hours your saw runs 3 hours or even 2 hours. Heck if you want to say an hour, not even a years worth of saw time. That is 150 days out of the year. Not even a half year of saw time. And people are clamoring over these type saws? I would not touch with a 10 foot pole if I were planning on doing production work. That is within your numbers. I can honestly say when I was in production mode I would scroll for a good 6 to 7 hours a day. I prep alot of work ahead of time and then just scroll. It was a production line type set up. I had to to keep up. Alot depends on the type of cutting too. if you are doing alot of intricate fret work, sure the saw time is down because all the stopping and starting but that too adds to heavy wear on those so called delicate bushings and the motor. Now if you do puzzles then saw time is greatly increased because less stop time. Same thing with larger less fret work projects. You can break it down anyway you want but if spending $500 on a saw it better last longer than 2 years or you better get warranty and use it. Not everyone has the ability to take saws apart. Man this is sort of an eye opener and would lean more and more toward a quality highend saw if you have intentions of going into production. If doing occasional cutting, a few days a week and maybe seasonal then saws like this are fine. Just something to think about when choosing a saw. Really any tool with a motor needs this thought process. I am so glad I bought RBI saws. I bet when I was cutting these puzzles the saw ran a true 6 hours a day. Slower fine cutting and no fret work. Prepped 50 or so at a time. No stack cutting with these. I probably could have worn a saw out just cutting all these out.

Paul, wow that flag inlay with all those stars is considered a master of inlay, RJ

Ha! I love it.

@JTTHECLOCKMAN @Dave Monk did a nice tutorial about inlay, it is on here somewhere, maybe in "Village University" in the "resources" section in this site.

@Scrappile Hi Paul, GREAT JOB on a relly nice pattern. I wish the younger "KIDS" would put somevalue on family. Thanks for sharing. Rick

I use a recipe based on this video. Nick's recipe download.

Basically yes, that's about what I get from these saws.. Though I'm using them more for commercial use.. and even then it's really quite tough to get 5 hours on a saw in one day..actually kinda tough to get 5-7 hours on a saw in a week. too many things you do that doesn't reflect actual sawing.. the hour meters are hooked up to the saw foot switch so this is actual saw runtime not just setting at the saw time.. You'd be amazed at how much saw time and shop time are different.. You spend a lot of time prepping projects and sanding, drilling, finishing etc. I wish I could remember what project it was I did that took me like 10 hours to cut but the saw time was only 1.5 hours.. I think it was this leopard but I'm not certain now.. This was a long time ago that I timed this out like that.. I don't usually time how long a project takes to cut.. rarely pay any attention to the hour meter honestly.. When I first put them on yes I did do some comparing times.. I was amazed that even though I was in the shop all week that I only had really put like 3 hours on the saws hour meter all week, LOL. It's a huge difference in times.. and now that I know this I always do a bit of a inside giggle when someone post that they saw 8 hours a day and their saw last 2-3 years.. I'll bet the saw is around that 250-300 ish hour mark.. not whatever it would be if it were actually 8 hours a day for 2-3 years, that'd be a lot of hours.. even for a Hawk in my mind.

great job

Have you or anyone else looked on the saw to see where it was made? Should say somewhere on the saw. Is it Tawain or China?

Cool! The flag is really cool also!

Very nice!

That looks great, RJ

Very nicely done, RJ

Country Dairy,,, local cows.

Rocky Road here. Dairy Queen is my choice. See we can not even agree on ice cream shop.

Nice!

Thanks. I sanded the backside as well so it is thinner at the tip.

Yes, to me, it is a variation of inlay, which I love to do. You just adjust the angle of the cut to get the fit that stops it at the height or depth you want. I also just finished this American Flag (a Steve Good pattern), only I inlaid the stars as opposed to just cutting them out and having a backer behind them.

I do agree, not everyone needs a higher end saw either.. most entree level or better saws will last a good amount of time for I'd say the majority of scrollers.. and as JT pointed out.. the used market usually has some pretty good buys on high end saws.. Back when I first got into scroll sawing I didn't even have a saw or the money for one.. so I just bought a pack of blades and used my fingers to hold each end of the blade.. made enough products to sell to buy a actual scroll saw with a motor on it.. This is just my scroll saw version of having to walk to school in 3 ft of snow uphill both ways barefoot and without a coat when I was a kid...

Well when buying a saw, you have to buy the best you can afford with your funds, not everyone can buy top of the line, but this way they can enjoy the hobby, RJ

Thank you for sharing your creations