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  1. TAIrving

    TAIrving

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  2. rdatelle

    rdatelle

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  3. Scrappile

    Scrappile

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  4. kmmcrafts

    kmmcrafts

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Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/19/2024 in all areas

  1. TAIrving

    Small Nativity Scene

    This is the "Small Nativity Scene" from the Feinschnitt Best of Weihnachten (Fine Scroll Saw, Best of Christmas) pattern book. It is more than segmentation but not quite Intarsia; cut from different woods but no shaping. The pieces are not glued and fit together like a puzzle. Woods used include black walnut, maple, myrtle, yellow heart and red heart.
    10 points
  2. rdatelle

    Serenity Plaque

    Well I gave this plaque a try after I saw the one that Fish did. Just have to give it a couple coats of poly. Made out of Oak and measures 8 inches wide and 15 tall.The letters were a challenge that's for sure. I want to thank Fish for giving me the cross pattern. There's a few small mistakes but nothing really bad.
    5 points
  3. A basket C261 pattern by Alex Fox. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood 10"square. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 MGT blades. Before gluing, an artist in studio at ArtCrafters wanted to stain it. After sanding, gluing, spraying with Shellac, another coat of spray Shellac. Comments welcome.
    4 points
  4. Talk about a big blade, this blade is about 1/8 or so thick kerf and about 8” wide. Little too big a blade for your standard bandsaw, lol Stopped in at my brothers sawmill and he was talking about how he broke a blade and the thing folded all up and the back edge stuck into this big chunk of wood. When he breaks a blade it soundS like a cannon went off.
    4 points
  5. Charlie E

    Treasure Chests

    I know this is the wrong forum. Forgive me. This is what I was working on when I had the table saw mishap. I built these as Christmas presents for my 5 grandkids to keep their important stuff in. Like cool feathers, marbles, and pocketknives. They’ve all got a couple of “secret compartments” you access with a magnet. I’m looking for advise from folks who do more of this type thing on what sealer you would use after stain and how you’d apply it. I’m planning to leave the insides unfinished. IMG_4781.mov
    3 points
  6. Had a lot of fun with this one. Pattern is in the library, I did some quick on-the-fly modifications as I went. Pegas MG#02 blades, Minwax Ebony for backer and frame, Natural for project. "Awesomeness" is rattlecan sparkly silver spray. I used some scrap cardboard to block off the areas I wanted left Ebony, sprayed, and I guess my measurements were correct.
    3 points
  7. Hey Everyone! In this fun scroll saw project video, we make a beautiful Miniature Nativity Scene to kick off Christmas Designs on the channel. The design is cut from a Cedar Fence Picket and celebrates the very true meaning of Christmas. The pattern is from the newest issue of Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Magazine (Winter 2024 #97) by Fox Chapel Publishing! Hope you all like the video! #ArtisanPirate
    3 points
  8. I have worked my way through Poly, Poly & Tung oil, Lacquer, and now shellac. Shellac has been a go-to finish for children's toys for decades. I dissolve the shellac flakes using 190 proof Everclear Vodka purchased at a Liquor store. It is has a very little odor but, unfortunately, the 190 proof version is not sold everywhere. I had to drive to Wisconsin to buy it. I used the 1 1/2 pound "cut" (1.5 pounds of shellac flakes per gallon ration or scaled down as needed) as recommended for the French Polish method of application. Shellac can be applied as a sealer, brushed, sprayed, dipped and padded on as a fine finish. Using the French Polish technique you can achieve a high gloss finish that, unlike lacquer, is very "close to the wood." YouTube has a number of videos showing the padding technique. The wood shown here is "Live Edge Cherry" and the finish was padded on with 12 applications rubbed in with roughly 30-45 minutes between applications. I know kids toy makers simply dip and let dry shellac for a non-toxic finish.
    3 points
  9. I utilized a set of patterns created by Charles Dearing to create the three framed panels shown in this photo: They were cut from cut it in 6mm thick Baltic Birch plywood using #1 Flying Dutchman Ultra-Reverse blades and backed with 3mm thick plywood panels painted with acrylic paint. The Rosseter-Pellow frames are made from very old and straight Pine and stained to match the colours in the panels. I've recorded this project in another Scrollsaw Village thread. Here is a link: Three Charles Dearing 'Illusion' patterns - COMPLETED - Works In Progress & Tutorials - Scroll Saw Village
    2 points
  10. This project was cut, but the shaping, finishing and assembly process was put on hold while I made the African Elephant and then the Cute Pink Jacketed Bear. I made this project for myself to join other SS Christmas pieces I use to decorate the outside of my home between Thanksgiving and New Year’s Day. This will be mounted on a common Mailbox structure located in front of my neighbor and my Duplex. The pattern is a coloring book page that is free to download from various sites on Pinterest. A similar, but slightly different, color image titled Noel can also be found but no specific credit is given. The pattern was cut from one piece if 3/4” thick premium pine, shaped and sanded like doing Intarsia, asssembled and mounted on 3/8" thk Plywood backer, then painted with my Air Brush using Artist Acrylic Air Bush paints and protected with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish spray. I made and mounted a simple wood stand on the back side, that will be screwed to the mailbox structure, that was painted Black. With this project finished in time to decorate for Christmas, I can now slow down and concentrate on what my next project will be…of which there are too many in the hopper. Comments and critiques always welcome.
    2 points
  11. I'm kind of new too but I will say, my wen works great! mine is a 16' so not big but gets the job done
    2 points
  12. Rectangular hole saws: https://www.amazon.com/hylissus-Oscillating-Stainless-Electrical-Rectangle/dp/B0C6JY75SB/ref=mp_s_a_1_1_sspa?crid=2W7JMAN6YDTWU&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.x3T3eQxPUgaQ_Ym3WmAbJ73sVoW8AzCQ90xL5j2iVed_YOYsDPhPIMM8sK1MIUyC1z5TqbU6wxL7k5Pg9IdXxprY2Qt3tVzKZL5MHBp1VrpnHPDg4cMA_buSWs1fRcujcl-bfZCHwKXOgPGj8DvoLSnbDGKVXNpSLJ1Cgi77v7Z9Gad301vTHwso9MqAt0Z2HQF9zC4JaR7C91xX_z4djg.S6b0ighdjgklYpBknc-5d-ILLNmFpwLIRx9DhsEltzw&dib_tag=se&keywords=oscillating+saw+outlet+cutter&qid=1732024176&sprefix=outlet+saw+%2Caps%2C260&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9waG9uZV9zZWFyY2hfYXRm&psc=1
    2 points
  13. I know I have not been scrolling in a while my school had an entrepreneur day so I thought it would be a good time to start again so I made a Christmas tree and a snowflake. again, I used plywood to paint it and I tried stack cutting for the first time the tape method it was fun and sorry I sold them already, so I don't have any pictures
    1 point
  14. Our club runs a 2 x 4 challenge each year. The objective is to use one 8 foot standard 2 x4. You don't have to use SPF but you are given special consideration if you do. This is my first entry. The pattern is by JGR. I resawed the 2 x 4 to 3/4 but by the time you joint and plane it end up at about 5/8. A number of pieces glued together to about 17 x 24 and the patterns is cut segmentation style and shaped. I then stained, dyed and painted. Some things like the straw are just burned. Because you are supposed to use as much wood as possible I also did the pumpkin (DIM) and the cat and dog (Janette Square design) as part of my entry. It came first in the scroll saw section
    1 point
  15. This my second entry to our clubs 2x4 challenge. It a standard SPF 8 foot. I cut to 8 - 12 inch lengths and then jointed and glued 2 pieces together. I then resawed one piece for the front and back. I then applied the pattern to front and the 3 - 1 1/4 layers. Cut out each layer accordingly and then glued the layers back together except the back. Then glued each drawer. Even though, I very carefully lined up the openings, i did a lot of sanding to get them to fit. Glued the back on and cut outline with the band saw. Finished with wipe on poly. Didn't win any awards but I had a hard time convincing everyone that firstly it was done mainly with the scroll saw any I did not use a 2 x 8 as the joint it the front and back you can hardly see.
    1 point
  16. I am concerned about toxic finishings to wood. This is why I would like to use only natural non-toxic products as olive oil or beewax, specially for toys and chopping or cutting boards. I intended to use raw beewax, but I am afraid that I would have to mix it with some kind of oil for a better application. Turpentine essence is not an option, as well as oils with solvents. What is your experience with beewax and what other products you use with it? My only requirement is not to use anything toxic. Thanks!
    1 point
  17. Scrappile

    Three Optical Illusions

    Very eye catching and impressive.
    1 point
  18. BadBob

    Treasure Chests

    Books on furniture finishing. I recommend the ones by Bob Flexner or Michael Dresdner. I own both.
    1 point
  19. Jim McDonald

    Serenity Plaque

    Great lettering work. Pat yourself on the back.
    1 point
  20. I never heard of olive oil being toxic. It is not normally recommended if rancid because its bad taste, but nothing more. I did a quick "research" on google and I found some comments on toxicity of rancid olive oil and other saying the opposite, so it's difficult to know where the truth is. I did not find any qualified opinion, though, on any of these two options.
    1 point
  21. rjweb

    Three Optical Illusions

    Frank, excellent cutting, RJ
    1 point
  22. rjweb

    Serenity Plaque

    That's beautiful, RJ
    1 point
  23. Scrappile

    Serenity Plaque

    Very well done Ralph
    1 point
  24. daveww1

    Serenity Plaque

    excellent job
    1 point
  25. Might want to make sure the olive oil won't go rancid and make your finish go from a safe finish to a toxic one. I'm on some cutting board forums and many of the topics are about using specific oils because of some oils will turn rancid and become toxic.. this is why most cutting boards say to treat with mineral oil.. I'm no expert on this, just passing on what I've read on other forums..
    1 point
  26. I like it!.....Very nice!
    1 point
  27. JTTHECLOCKMAN

    Treasure Chests

    When I first got into the scrolling and woodworking business I was put in touch with Jeff Jewitt from Homestead Finishing. this goes back quite a few years. he was the big name in finishing and talking with him over those times he told me about the waterbased lacquers and also good quality spray guns and HVLP sprayers and things like this. I bought one of the guns he recommended and love it for it does what I needed it to do and that was spray lacquers. Have been using for over 20 years. Here is an article he wrote for fine woodworking that explains alot. https://www.finewoodworking.com/2004/11/01/selecting-a-finish He use to have a web site and now I do not know what this is because I have not ordered from them in awhile but I use to deal with Homestead Finishing. https://homesteadfinishingproducts.com/contact-and-ordering-info/. You can contact Jeff through there and order everything. Is there other sources, I am sure there is. But that is where I started and trusted. As far as shelf life. I never really had a open can that was more than 1/4 full left over and it lasted a couple years. I have right now full gallon can and also a full quart can and it is fine. Not sure when I will be using it for my scrolling days and large woodworking projects are non existent. I just moved the cans the other day to get at some other finishes I need for my moldings in my house.
    1 point
  28. Grizzly is running a sale now. I thought I saw an ad somewhere. Yea it was you who brought it up as I looked back. https://www.grizzly.com/holiday-sale/2024/scroll-saws Scott (Iggy) that is him. Have not seen him here. Hope he is doing well. I have to go some place Wed. this week and I will be passing a HF. I think I will stop in and take a look at the scrollsaw.
    1 point
  29. Nice Frank. Wish I knew how to paint.
    1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. @rash_powder You are correct, I have cut LED light strip tape to the length that I needed when working on other scroll saw projects. The LED light that I am would like to purchase I saw as part of an advertisement for a Laser cut puzzl project, it is complete with a tiny circuit board that has some controls for the LED, The problem is that I can't read the numbers on the board, or I would try hunting it down using that information. Thank you for your assistance. I have just about given up the search and will move on to other projects. Rick
    1 point
  32. Country Dairy always comes out with Peppermint Stick’ ice cream for Christmas….Real Peppermint sticks broken up in the ice cream…And the sticks are grown in local orchards….
    1 point
  33. I haven't used or looked to closely at the little LED light strings. If they are wired in parallel, then just nip the un-needed off and tape the ends. Do this powered off, of course. The driver may not like to see a short.
    1 point
  34. Yea we drifted off course but this happens when you beat a dead horse too much. I like the ice cream touch.
    1 point
  35. Yeah, I know. I sold them lots of travel insurance. Or you could come on up....but during our summer!!
    1 point
  36. Beeswax is commonly mixed with mineral oil, which is food safe and found in the pharmacy section of your favorite super market, with the laxatives.
    1 point
  37. Kevin, that's too funny, RJ
    1 point
  38. I do agree, not everyone needs a higher end saw either.. most entree level or better saws will last a good amount of time for I'd say the majority of scrollers.. and as JT pointed out.. the used market usually has some pretty good buys on high end saws.. Back when I first got into scroll sawing I didn't even have a saw or the money for one.. so I just bought a pack of blades and used my fingers to hold each end of the blade.. made enough products to sell to buy a actual scroll saw with a motor on it.. This is just my scroll saw version of having to walk to school in 3 ft of snow uphill both ways barefoot and without a coat when I was a kid...
    1 point
  39. speaking of LED lighting, I love to build the Schwinbogens (lighted Christmas arches). The strings of lights that are available are normally longer than I want. Can one shorten them somehow? I learned my Master's in electronics in the Marine Corps, so I am pretty dumb about this stuff.
    1 point
  40. @rash_powder THANK YOU !!! Rick
    1 point
  41. An LED of whatever color you like, a resistor, small switch, and a 2032 battery are all that is really needed to build a light. A bit of hot glue to hold things in place and your done. Digikey carries all kinds of stuff like that, and generally gets things out quite quickly.
    1 point
  42. @Jim McDonald Thank you Jim. In a previous life(?), I,worked for IBM and I also did more soldering than I liked, so I agree that the solder joints are proably float or solder bath joints. Also, you have a great eye, the project that I saw on the net that uses this LED setup, is in a nite light and it can be dimmed. I have been searching for almost a week,and today I am officially done, I willmove on to a different direction Rick
    1 point
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