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For anyone who hasn't seen these, they are really fun. I did these three last night for grandkids. They look much better actual "tiny" size than blown up. I included the video demonstration.

Every year I do 2 family puzzles one for each of my children's families.

Every year I try to do a nativity scene. This year, I picked more of a picture than a scene that has to be set up. This is a Sue Mey design. My picture taking skills are declining along with my scrolling skills. But I finished it.

An ornament for a friend, pattern from the ornaments for charity files. 1/8" basswood, FD Polar #2/0 blades for the interior cuts; #1 for the outside cut.

Here is your morning smile Jeff

got the pattern from facebook group, scroll saw works and free patterns, one of the members "Ian Pallister" posted this and several others saying patterns free to use and please dont sell. I bought the lights on amazon 3.3' colored led lights with batts

Oak is the worst.. I do a fair amount of CNC carving signs where I have to paint the carved text or image.. What I do is cover it with 3-4 coats of lacquer or whatever the final top coat will be.. ( usually Lacquer ).. I then CNC route the sign with masking on ( Oramask ) and once carved I go back and do 3-4 coats of clear again before painting.. Being very careful in trying to not get paint on any surface that isn't supposed to have paint on it, LOL. Once painting is done I use my sander and sand it all down to remove any imperfections and then I re clear everything with another coat or two. Yes it's a lot of paint and a lot of work.. this is why I don't do a whole lot of CNC carving. You need to have a good seal of the wood grain, especially with Oak.. Just a few samples of painted wood I have done. I put a lot of coats on those oak cross bases when I make those.. Other things I try to stay away from oak..

Thanks appreciate it

In no particular order Motor brushes glazed, remove and very gently scrape the surface. The face of the brush should be dull not shiny. Brushes wornout Brush springs worn, not making good contact (If used) Extension cord wires to small for load Shop wiring tool light for load (Very rare, but I've seen it) Copper in house or shop wiring "crystalized" Power switch packed with sawdust Defective speed controller

Here's some pictures for proof of concept

I used a piece of faux sea glass as a nod to Willie’s Christmas song, “Pretty Paper. “ Of course the guitar is Willie’s timeworn Martin, “Trigger.”

This is from Steve Good. I use this in my scrolling classes but modify to say that I personally use Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse 90% of the time. Steve used to use FD but now uses Pegas MGT. Choosing a Scroll Saw Blade for a Project Many of my emails from readers ask about choosing a scroll saw blade for a particular wood. I am probably the wrong person to ask because I rarely choose a blade for the wood. I choose the blade based on the pattern. If I am cutting 3/4" thick hardwood but the pattern has very small interior cuts I use a #3 or whatever blade I need to get into the small interior holes. It will cut slowly but it will make the cut. When you see people talking about using a #9 blade to cut thicker/harder wood or a #3 for thinner/softer wood, they are talking about the efficiency of the cut. A #9 blade will cut thicker harder wood faster and break fewer blades but if the #9 blade won't allow you to get into the interior hole or make the tight turns then it does not work. As a scroller, I rarely care about the efficiency of the cut. I care about making accurate cuts even if they are slow. 95% of the time I use a #5 scroll reverse or a #3 scroll reverse. Occasionally if I have a rough cut to make I will grab a larger blade. I own just about every blade made and many of them rarely get used unless I run into a special project. I use spiral blades for portrait-style patterns or when a cut it too large to make the turn on the saw. Some materials require special blades. Metal and Corian are two that come to mind. Another similar question is about setting the speed on a variable-speed scroll saw. When I get a new saw I determine the maximum speed that the saw cuts without too much vibration. This is often just slightly below full speed. I run at that maximum speed unless I am cutting very thin wood. 1/8" or thinner. The thin wood gives little resistance to the blade and it is easy to make miscuts. If that is what I am cutting I do one of two things. I slow the speed of the saw down or if possible I stack cut to add resistance. None of the above advice is an unbreakable rule. Saws are different, people get a different feel from the cuts, and blades are different. My best advice to a new scroller is to try different techniques and use what feels best to you.

Saw this the other day on here and thought it was neat. Made two and they are both gone, so will be making more. Jeff

Well it's been a little while, but I finally got in touch with Denny Knappen like some of you guy's recommended that I do. I talked to him today and he was really helpfulI I ordered what I needed from him and it was a pleasure talking with him on the phone. And, it turns out that he has the exact same saw that I do, so that really helped. Anyway I wanted to thank you guy's on here for the suggestions as it really helped me out. Thanks again to all of you. Jim

Put a false table top and see how close to top you can get. Use up a few more teeth.

Kevin, those are some real nice looking signs, really like the cross for a wedding gift, RJ

Nicely done Paul. Jeff

nice job

I just thought so. I worked for OCSD for 31 years. Sure do miss the beach and sea. We are in Texas now.

Got it. This would be used to augment the cup holder. This would not be a useable item, it would be far too fragile for use, it would sit on a shelf and be pretty.

I really like these especially the lines on them....They look like they have fur

Very beautiful!

I tried something new for me. This is a SueMey pattern. I have been wanting to try some "relief" cutting. Where you cut part of a picture at an angle so it will stand proud of the rest of the picture. I started with the verse, then cut the tree with a 2.5° slant. When I finished cutting the tree and saw how it looked, I decided the heart should stand out proud, also. I had some bloopers, but nothing serious. My intent was to remove the tree and stain it, but the root area was just too fragile to mess with. So I removed the pattern from the tree and the heart and colored them, leaving the pattern on the rest so I would not get stain it. It Worked pretty well. Anyway, I am happy with it and will do better next time. It is cut in 1/2" Oak.

I just saw this....so glad I got to see this. I love your tree...I really like using that technique as well. Great work!

Great job and a wonderful solution for staining the portions you wanted to! God Bless! Spirithorse

hey you got it done and looks nice. Now these are not knocks just thoughts. What happens when hot or cold is placed against it? I know you will seal it but what happens when wetness hits it. I see too many floating areas that can break off because they do not bend like in the lettering. Maybe if you used a different font whare all parts are touching. Finally being that thin it is fragile for an application where cups can be jammed in. Only bringing these up if you intend to sell or give away. if for your self go for it.

I modified a Steve good pattern using Inkscape to make this Ornament as a gift. It is made from 1/4-inch plywood with a 1/8-inch backing. It is finished with rattle can lacquer and bright red acrylic. I used a Pegas #1 MGT at a slow speed for the cut.

The small points on this pattern worried me about getting the pattern off without breaking any of them. I used a needle point awl to lift the paper off the points, then gently removed the rest of the paper.

Looks great! I will check the pattern out.

Yes, you did a great job. I purchased the pattern, but they will have to wait until next year. Just not enough time now.

He did 15 too (he sad he cut them 4 at a time stacked) lol

nice work

I would like to make some Christmas ornaments for my nieces for Christmas but I'm unsure of what type and size wood would be best. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Mitch

May I make a suggestion to start your own thread and ask this question. When you pick up on an older thread such as this many people pass over it knowing the dates. You will get better responses on your own thread. You will get many choices. Being a little late to do this but good luck.

I’d like to restart this conversation as I found a coffee can full of zoo animals in my Dad’s garage. I’m looking for a scroll saw and would appreciate receiving recommendations as to the model that everyone prefers … I’m starting a zoo animal Christmas tree this year and plan to finish the ornaments Dad started … adding a few if my own … Merry Christmas everyone

Steve Good so closely matches what I do that I saved this blog post. I should have posted this.

This is embarrassing. I thought I had a PFD file, but I can't find it. I will make a copy tonight.

Danny please send me a chart. Thank you. cjwoodart@gmail.com

Scrollsaw.com has a ton of info on many different subjects around scroll saws.

I just went to Lowes and picked up a sheet of 1/8 in birch plywood. It was $12. Can cut some really small things and it seems to hold together great.