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Heres what I been working on

I adapted original Stained Glass Art by Jillian Sawyer to create a 99 piece, 10” x 15” pattern. Wood used: Aspen, Cedar, Orange Osage, Padauk, Poplar, Roasted Birch, Sapele, Yellowheart, and Wenge. Wood used for leaves and stems was enhanced with Green Dye and the Butterfly wing veins were highlighted with a black sharpie. Assembly is mounted on a 1/8” thick BB Ply backer and finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Acrylic Finish. The Poppy was intended to be dark and light Red, much like how Blue was use in the original art. My choice to use Cedar wood for the light Red was poor with the color being more Brown than Red. This was not apparent to me until I brought the Butterfly assembly against the flower assembly. Although this should not have been necessary, but since assembly was too far complete, I found it necessary to improve the Cedar with Red Dye. Comments and critiques allways welcome.

Hummingbird hovering over Flower. Pattern designer - @FrankEV. Thank you. Woods used -Purpleheart, orange osage, aromatic cedar, Canarywood, lacewood, poplar, maple, wenge. Mounted on live edge Elm. Walrus oil finish. Aprox 9"x7. There is a before finish and after finish. I love putting the finish on to see the colours pop!

Latest piece done. Segmentation Koi bowl. I used 3/4" Poplar for two layers and 1/2" Maple for the third layer. Black is Osmo finish. Colours are acrylic paints. Finished with triple glaze gloss. Pattern is from an old Creative Woodworks magazine. Pattern designer is Deborah Nicholson. Thank you @Denny Knappenfor providing it to me. Original pattern is 12" diameter. This is reduced to 8"diameter.

I fixed it. I have a nerve issue in my left arm that causes some of my fingers to have delayed reaction times. This causes me to make many transposition errors when I type. Grammarly usually catches and corrects these errors, but it doesn't work in the post-title space.

Love it. You did an amazing job. Marg

Excellent work Marg

First ‘real’ project. Learned a bit in corners, blade tension and such. Using Olsen #7 crown tooth blades. My arm release mechanism made the job much easier with all the holes. Fun stuff!

Been out of it and just recently rebuilt my work area. This is what I've done. I'm going to trim the minute hands on one of the clocks for sure

One of Steve good downloads its some segment work and I won't be doing anything this small again my fingers don't like it I used plastic eyes and nose as I have a lot from the layered animals I make i I found some upholstery nails and they looked ok so I made them the buttons its not finished yet still need to sand base and cover sides to smooth a bit and then spray some lacquer Here's where I'm at It's rare I use paint but I took a paint pen and made the tie red it's sapele and hard maple used a 2/0 blade for it and cut the sides with a 5 ine Pegas one flying dutchman

I adapted a winter scene photo of a Chickadee to create a 10” x 10” Intarsia pattern. This pattern requires very accurate cutting to get a good fit-up. Wood used: Aspen, Basswood, Costa Rica Mahogany, Mahogony, and Wenge. Dye was applied to Aspen for the Light Grey areas. I used a 5/8” thick Premium Pine Project panel from Lowes for the free form plaque type backer. The backer perimeter edge was cut at a 4-degree bevel and then a router was used to round-over the top edge using a 1/8” round-over bit. The completed assembly was protected with multiple coats of a Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. Comments and critiques welcome. I will post the pattern in Pattern Exchange.

I just joined the forum so there are so many things I don't know yet, I hope to have the help of the boards, and I really want to get to know you all on the forum. Daisy

I can not say if that is a good idea or not. I am one of those that never touch that cam lever once I had it set. Never seen a need to. My tension is set up front with the blade lever. Now if I use thin blades I adjust the position in the clamps just a tad. That is all it takes to release some tension. Been doing that ever since I owned the saws. Works for me. Good luck with your idea. Hope it does what you are looking for.

Most important is fixing your saw. I read somewhere recently that some high schools and junior colleges have electronics courses. If you find out they do, you might take your control board in and see what they think. Be a good project for some enterprising student. Buy the class some donuts or something.

Hmm, well that's just dumb.. now when you break a blade there is no lever at the back that pops up out of place that makes you get up off the chair so you can reach back and pop it back over into place. Great idea really.. as far as I know the lever action one has always been the design they have used and you're right.. it's over engineered and no reason i can see as to why it's like that.. other than years ago that's how they described how to tension the blade properly.. which was always way off from what they say on the sticker anyway.. at least for me on my saws.. IF you haven't maybe you should post that on the FB Hawk Group.. maybe Bushton will get the hint that we don't like that lever popping up out of place when a blade breaks.. BTW, I looked at a Hawk for sale once where they just threaded a nut on that rod.. I just assumed they lost the actual lever and too cheap to replace it.. now making me wonder if maybe someone did that on purpose I will say if your front tension cam isn't adjusted properly and or worn out that it'll make that lever pop up and not hold the blade correctly.. not sure if the knob would keep it on tension better or not..That's usually how I learn that I need to adjust that little set screw underneath the upper arm at the front of the saw..

Very nice.

Nice work, but I have to disagree with RJ.

Very nice work!

Great work Frank.

great job

I stumbled upon a 'Star Wars' pic that has Peanuts characters as protagonists. I decided to do the pic, but to add a little twist: I made a diorama. Everything was done with hand tools, a Ryoba, a fretsaw with a #3 blade, sanding paper. The only power tool I used was a jigsaw to cut the hole for the 'window'. Even the slot for Snoopy was cut with the fretsaw. Some build pics:

That is so cute. You did an excellent job. Marg

Very nice. Great paint job. Marg

Spent most of the day sorting, storing, amalgamating and yes!!! throwing out!!! I don't have a before. The last two are the after!

I'm not sure what you are seeing, he never edited his post.. The title still says EX-12 on my end.. But I believe he just did a typo..

Ray, I think Bob corrected it in his post EX 21, RJ

I think I managed to find a pattern! Searched for victorian stencil and that got me where I wanted to be.

I was putting my stuff in a frame, so the edges were not an issue.

Nope, I just put a gob of paint on the piece and then distribute it verrry evenly with my fingers ... I used a paintbrush. Also, a foam roller. Occasionally, a drill.

Mighty fine projects

Okay, you forgot to mention one tool: paintbrush. You must have used a paintbrush. That is a very cute scene. Nice clean cutting. Well done.

Some more pics.

I agree with Jim. Short blade life is a technique problem, not a saw problem. Presuming these saws are going to see a much higher level of abuse than what the average hobbiest saw would see, I would probably look into the 14" Hegner that was mentioned above. The double parallel link saws like Dewalt, Pegas, Seyco, Excelsior/King, Jet, etc. are good saws, but will likely need a lot more maintenance with continuous rough use. I've never owned a Hegner, but from everything I've heard and read about them, they are basically indestructible. The 14" should be plenty big enough for kids to learn on and hopefully priced such that you could afford multiple units.

I don't think the saw is eating the blades, but rather the inexperience and impatience of the students. Our local college had two DW788 saws in their woodshop and the blade holes were destroyed by people tilting the table and aggressively pushing the blades. And, just general pushing against the blades. If the students are having issues, a more expensive saw won't solve the problem. A balance of the correct blade (speed and feed) and a competent operator is what is needed.

Danny, do you have any electronic repair shops in your area? I would think anyone who knows electronics and has the equipment could troubleshoot and repair one of those boards for much less than $300, Maybe even a local computer repairperson.

Very nice job, welcome back, RJ

Nice job. It dosn't appear that you lost any of your muscle memory either. Rick

Looks like you still know what scrolling is about. Nice work.

Nice work Gregg! Welcome back to the hobby. Hope to see many more posts of your work.

Excellent cutting.

Looks very nice! Congrats on your first project!

Well done. Love the colours.

That is a beautiful piece. Barb, you are a very talented lady.

Nice work, I saw that little guy on my feeder just the other day.

Coming along nicely, Al. You will get to where you get comfortable with segmentation, inlay, and relief cutting. I didn't try it for several years. Now I look for reasons to do it.

I made a clamping jig to do my compound cuts. I also added springs so the tension stays even. I added the thumb nuts to make it easier to tighten/loosen on the fly. No need for tape.

awesome job

Oh what you can do with a little paint! Really nice. I've got a couple of Seg projects on the back burner bu there is just not enough hours, when I can only do about 3 hours a day.

Another beautiful piece, RJ

Hey kids, it's been a while... I hope everyone is doing well. I stepped into my shop yesterday for the first time since September. It felt good to get back into the groove again. Finished up 7 puzzles and a couple of key/leash racks this morning. I received acceptance to my best 1 day event each year which is at the end of April so I need to get 100-150 puzzles and racks cut to be ready. Iggy