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It is a long time since I cut a Wordart. Designed lots but next week our club is going to review the library at our club. It is a really great resource and was started by my dear friend who passed away a couple of years ago. For all the work he did for the club and especially the formation of the library it was named the "Mack Cameron Memorial Library". I have the privilege of creating the sign for the library to be presented at this meeting. PS: If anyone was a pen turner, you may remember Mack on all the pen forums as he was a real avid pen turner.

Hi I would like too thank don in Brookland on for making a pattern for me for this piece,again thanks very much, my friend was delighted with it

Something for when we have little tikes over. This was a fun project. Although it’s much bigger than I expected. Everything was cut on the scrollsaw with the exception of the rockers, they were cut on bandsaw.

So, my Hegner purrs like a kitten with just a blade, but when cutting it can get some vibration, not enough to mess with the magnifier light attached to the saw. The saw was bolted to the floor with a foam floor mat for padding. A little aside. I'd have problems with my washing machine walking off the leveling block, a couple of years ago I used a worn out sanding sponge for a block and haven't had a problem since. Last night, because I had to move the saw anyway, I set each of the legs on their own pad. Much less vibration. The sanding blocks roughness keeps the blocks from walking on both the floor and the legs. Only time will tell if this is a long term fix, but I wanted to share the idea.

This is a Charles Hand design. Cut in 1/8” Baltic Birch plywood. Hobby Lobby frames.

If your thickness target is 1/2” then you should cut your log at 3/4”. And you should go with a planer instead of a sander

Here is the Hummingbird I cut for my spouse for Christmas. The frame was what I liked the most. The birdhouse was for my Granddaughters. They love to fish with me and love the dock I built them so I added a birdhouse to it.

The FB February/March PAM is a series of eight Umbrella Girl patterns provided by Bob Beaupre. Entries can be one or more of the eight. You can find many finished versions Umbrella Girl Intarsia on Pinterest and I happen to run across a version of Number 7 by a Mehmet Biçer. Although the subject is not particularly interesting to me, after seeing Mehmet’s version I decided I would make only one and I also chose to do number 7. I used the photo his as guide for my presentation. I resized the patten slightly to fit a 9 3/4” x 11 3/4’ oval. Wood I used: Aspen, Basswood, Blue Pine (5/8” thick for Oval), Cherry, Mahogany, Purpleheart, Wenge, and Yellowheart. The project was an easy cut but cutting the hat gave me fits (pun intended) during fit-up. That damn hard Purpleheart…you get my drift! The finish is multiple coats of rattle can spray Clear Gloss Acrylic Finish. This is the image of the biece by Mehmet. Comments and critiques are always welcome.

Scrolled this for my grand daughter who is an avid Taylor Swift fan. My second completed project for my Pegas scroll saw. The first was some stick people. I used spiral blades as the project was to large for my scroll saw. I have to say it was a learning experience. The pattern was by Bobbie Riggs.

Frank, beautiful work, I like you selection of woods they stand out better than the other photo, RJ

Great work looks very good.

Great fix

Trying to effectively dry 1” stock will probably take close to a year. The process can be sped up if you have access to a kiln. Like already said a sander is not the way to go. Buy or find someone with a planer.

I have some anti-vibration pads under my Excelsior. Made a difference.

For a couple years now I use a Wen 2156 and I built my own bench. I don't believe Wen had a table available at that time. I looked at DeWalt stand and others but didn't like any of them so I made my own which cost me $50/$60 dollars for materials and I really like it.

In that link I think there were some misinformation. There has not been any major problems with that saw. Not sure what Kevin and where he was reading that. Also the 788 is still made in Tawain not China. Now many people associate China with Tawain so maybe that is how that started. The 788 saw is still a proven good saw and mid price range. I have no problem recommending that saw. As far as the rocking of the table, I could not find the fix that was always recommended for the 788 saw but am sure it is out there. Something to do with adding a washer or something like that. Memory is not what it use to be.

great idea

My price on ornaments is $8 each or 3 for $20

BTW,this is probably the only place someone will ask for a close-up of your crack.

I am a little late with this, laptop giving me trouble, but most all of the long time scrollers know about this, if you attach Padauk to a lighter colored wood preseal both pieces first! The reason being that Padauk will bleed into the lighter wood! This happened to me a couple of times until I ask about this and was told how to finish before putting the two woods together! Erv

The first couple of years we would put a stack of each ornament out. We no longer do that, now it is one or two of each then replenish when sold. We also have to have something new every year, as we have several of our customers tell us they have a tree dedicated to our ornaments. Talk about humbling.!

I used to do large 5 day craft shows and sold almost nothing but ornaments. I had several table with stacks of each ornaments, as well as a large table at the front with either 2 or 3 brass ornament carousels. These each held 60 ornaments and revolved slowly. This way people could see them hanging. I never used any boxes, just small bags and no one seemed to care, so I didn't add the expense of the box. Sorry I don't have a picture of the carousels, but we've moved twice in 4 years and I'm lucky I even know where I am, let alone anything else!

Rolf, your ornaments are so detailed and delicate that I think maybe customers appreciate the boxes, if for no other reason than to ensure that they survive the trip home. The boxes really do enhance the display. Like I said before, I've never seen ornaments presented in boxes like that, but I've never seen ornaments as nice as yours at any of the craft shows I've been to.

With rare exception we don't box anything other than Ornaments. I hope to do a high end Artisan event this summer to sell Intarsia pieces and turnings. I will provide a box for the Intarsia pieces primarily to protect them for transport. I will get professional pricing help for this event.

Thanks for the nice comment @kmmcrafts Kevin. We have been selling Ornaments since 2005, not sure who's idea it was to box them. Probably my wife. They are clear topped boxes and we put sparkly felt under the ornament. It really makes them pop! It is a bit of additional work but my wife enjoys the process. The Jump in sales was dramatic! The boxes make it easy for someone to gift the ornament with just a bit of wrapping paper. I cut 6 at a time and charge 12-15 ea. I only do a couple of events a year. The image is from 2009.

I've been to a lot of craft shows over the years (as a customer/observer, not a vendor). I've seen a lot of ornaments and bought a few. I've never seen any displayed in boxes. I have no idea what that might mean or if the boxes would hurt or help sales, I've just never seen them displayed that way.

The clear top gift boxes are a great way to display ornaments at the shows if you build a stand to make the boxes sort of stand up at a angle to show them better.. When I did in person sales almost everyone commented on how nice the packaged ornament is to give as a gift.. I'd have to get me old computer out to get the photos off it of how they're displayed in the clear top gift boxes.. When I switch to the boxes sales went up.. I no longer use the clear top ones since I'm shipping them the cardboard boxes give a little more protection and I'm not needing to display them at a booth anymore. Edit: I remember I have a photo on my FB page from back in 2016 where I was packaging some orders for the day that is showing the ornament displayed in those clear top boxes.. You can see that a business card fits in nicely.. having these set up on a rack at a show in the box is how I displayed them and I used address return labels to hold the clear top on in some cases.. The return label with printed just like a mini business card. When displayed at a show I would use colored paper to place behind the ornament on top of the cotton to make the contrast better and make them more Christmas looking with red and green paper behind them.

I think a lot would depend on where you're trying to sell at and also how are they packaged if they are.. All of my ornaments starting priced at $15.97 + shipping ( I sell online so shipping is a factor for me ).. I also package every ornament in a gift box.. so they're ready to give as a gift if the customer is purchasing it as a gift.. if not the box gives a bit more padding for packaging in the mail as the gift boxes are cotton filled too. Shipping is usually right around $4 - 5 for ground advantage.. so they're spending a total of around $20 some of my ornaments are double layered so they're priced closer to $18.97 + shipping and then adding any type of personalized or custom design is yet more money.. I sell a lot of them too and being priced higher like this allows me to be able to run a sale, or do bulk / wholesale orders which is really the larger part of my income.. The lowest I will sell a bulk order is $10 each.. for a pretty basic design..and goes up from there.. Selling at a craft show or farmers market.. I'd probably price things similar to the others saying $10 - 12 if there is no gift box etc.. I just think the gift boxes are a must have as then if the customer does purchase they have a box to easily carry with them rather than just handing them a ornament in a bag or something.. Everyone will have a different idea of price and many times it's based on experience and the market in their particular area..

IF he's starting with green lumber then 1" is probably about right.. You'd be amazed at how much lumber shrinks when it dries out.. a 1" green lumber will likely be around 3/4 once dried.. also how it's dried makes a difference Kiln dried or stickered and air dried.... then depending on the type of sawmill ( circle saw or bandsaw) and the runout of the blade on said mill etc.. by the time you get it milled down so the board is smooth you may end up with 1/2 - 5/8 finished lumber.. Of course this depends on how green and what species of lumber you're working with.. in this case poplar does shrink quite a lot..

Why not just have the board cut at 1/2" instead of 1 inch to start with? I would resaw on a bandsaw first then run the boards thru my planer. A lot less waste and faster.

Even though I don't have one, a planner is the way to go.

Great cutting. I got a kick out of his shows.