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My latest pattern and project "Country music", project size is 7,5 x 8,5 inches, 4 layers 1/8 inch This is my second such pattern, the first one (country guitarist) I made about 2 years ago and it became quite popular Which one do you like more? Video of making project COuntry music pattern

Finished up this Super Bowl Trophy this week, turned out better then I thought.

I finished cutting this wood-art piece on my scroll saw today. 1200 cuts. What was I thinking when I started this monster? Depicts an old mining town and railroad.

A wedding gift for some awesome clients and friends. It really is square. I have a hard time getting a good picture of a picture. Fame is walnut. Fret work is 1/8" baltic birch with a 1/4" walnut plywood backer.

I loved using a scroll saw in high school. 20 years later, I am going to get into this hobby with my kids. I look forward to learning from all of you!

Thank you everyone for your comments. I think I should pay more attention to eliminate the saw dust as frequently as possible. I will try to use my VAC, that might help also everytime the hole saw is backed out.

When using a hole saw, keeping the teeth of the hole saw blade cool keeps them sharp longer. With the repeating circular motion, there isn't any place for the saw dust to go and the teeth get filled with saw dust, then become more of a friction cut than a saw cut. This heating will rapidly dull the blade teeth of all blades, regardless of if they are on a hole saw or straight cutting blade, or even a scroll saw blade. If the blade teeth can't be kept clear and build up with saw dust, this will happen. Most straight cutting or scroll saw blade cutting dumps the saw dust as the teeth exit the wood at end of stroke. A hole saw doesn't have this capability and continues to fill the teeth with saw dust with no where to clear them. An air gun aimed at the cutting point and frequent backing out of the hole saw blade will allow the compressed air from the air nozzle will blow the teeth and the cut clear of saw dust every time the hole saw is backed out of the cut and keep the teeth cutting well and not dulling rapidly. Saw blades of any kind can't cut if the gullet between the teeth are plugged up with packed in saw dust. They become friction saws and the heat built up from continuing to try to use it will destroy the blade teeth. Charley

Based on the above video, I picked this one up last week with their 15% discount for Presidents Day. It is my first band saw, so I don't have hands-on experience to compare against better or worse saws, but here are my first observations: While the price I paid my skew may opinions (~$420 after discounts), I can't believe how good this is. Having a 1hp motor at this price point is incredible, and the fit and finish is (mostly) punching above its weight class. While assembly was straightforward, I had issues getting one of the 4 bolts holding the table in place to thread properly. After backing out and repeating several times, I just torqued it in. On one hand, it's secure. On the other, I likely will not be able to remove it. So there's that. Following Snodgrass's technique, I got the saw nicely tuned, and it cuts great with the stock blade. The tool-less adjustments are very nice! I've ordered a 1/4 skip-tooth blade for tighter turns. The stock fence is very short, so if you're doing re-saws, you'll need to upgrade or fashion your own. There is a t-slot at the top that you can rig up to attach an extruded fence (or piece of wood). Some people have complained that the fence guide has to be removed each time you change the blade, but the bolts holding it in place have large knobs that allow you to do it quickly without tools. This is a non-issue. Dust collection is not good, but again I don't have a comparison. It might be like miter saws where they are just fundamentally bad. I have a 4in hose connected to the dust port, but it looks like I need a second hose to connect to the table, not unlike those you see on a router table with both above and below dust collection. Sometimes when I start it up, I'll have sawdust "snow in" from above out of the upper wheel housing. There is a brush on the lower wheel to remove the sawdust near the dust port. If this gets to be an issue, some weather striping on the doors will take care of that. It's red...very red. Kinda wish it was a more muted color....but $400 bucks!!! I was previously considering the Rikon 10" benchtop for $500, so the fact that I can get a 14in, 1hp BS for the same price is an easy win. Highly recommend.

Great job on that Frank. I wish I had the nerve to try intarsia. Maybe one day.

Great job on that. Amazing work with a hand held saw.

Hello fellow Canuk To avoid high shipping you should check with Sawbird. https://www.sawbird.com/pegas_chuck_heads.htm Garnett sells the Pegas clamps so he may have renewal kits too. I just order blades from him and the shipping was only $6 CAD. Bearwoods web site for Canada is https://www.woodparts.ca/ In both cases they don't list the renewal kits so you may have to call.

Check with Art Crafters and Bear Woods.

Thx for your opinion, it may help others who are on the fence weather to purchase or not, RJ

Something for when we have little tikes over. This was a fun project. Although it’s much bigger than I expected. Everything was cut on the scrollsaw with the exception of the rockers, they were cut on bandsaw.

I have a large collection of hole saws. I used to make all my wheels and still do for the odd sizes. I have never had a hole saw get too dull to use. Mine are old Vermont American brands. They may be high-speed steel, but I am not sure. Carbon steel saws will dull quickly if the get hot. Starting a few years ago, I began cutting wheels with a scroll saw. I must sand the edges using either method so the hole saws are retired. When using hole saws to cut wheels, I found it much easier to cut the hole, slightly overlapping the edge of a previously cut wheel's kerf, allowing the sawdust to escape. I would buy carbide hole saws if I needed to replace one. A batch of odd-size wheels I cut with a hole saw.

Hi: I was watching a Steve Good video about "Quick Clamp Renewal Kit" I went looking around who sells them and found them at Seyco for only $8.50 and $54.10 to ship. That's a bit pricey for something that would easily fit into a standard envelope. Does anyone know if these are available in Canada as the above prices are also USD. The cost is way too much to pay for these. Any suggestions?