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A cat crew lady sent me a Pic of her cat. The cat crew traps, neuter, and releases (TNR) feral cats. I saw I had a Cocobola piece of wood with nice grain. 1/4" thick 3 inches x 12 inches. Her pic would not look good on my 3 inch wood due to aspect ratios. So I found a cat pic on web and adapted swirl pattern to a stalking cat profile. So I made her a cat box. She is an artist also. She sketches paints other people's cats and then glues on cat whiskers that she collects. This box will hold her cat whiskers.

i think i had about 10 ish hours cutting this over a while. im thinking there was around 300 cuts. fun one and i think the blue stain pine with oak trim makes it pretty nice. seems my thoughts for a winter project have changed from a couple months ago. now my main project is dont freeze in the shop!:)

This is not a question. A potential customer wants the items finished with a natural oil. I did some research, and it appears that Tung oil is the only one, and that can even be iffy. Sometimes, it isn't pure tung oil but tung oil with additives. Along the way, I decided to get prices for finishes to do a cost comparison. I used cost per gallon because some of these come in weird sizes and it was easy to calculate. I was shocked at how expensive some of these are. Some of the most expensive ones are just oils with waxes and hardening chemicals added. All the prices were gathered from Amazon. Here is my list for your info. These claim to be Oil Finishes Tung Oil $70/gallon Mineral Oil $25/gallon aka Cutting board Oil Hard Wax Oil $480/gallon Boiled Linseed Oil $44/gallon Danish Oil $94/gallon Teak Oil $74/gallon Walrus Oil Furniture Butter $472/gallon Odie's Oil $794/Gallon Other Finishes These don't claim to be oil finishes. Shellac is the only one that I am sure does not contain oils. Shellac $85/Gallon Polyurethane Water Based $69/gallon Polyurethane Oil Based $66/gallon Arm-R-Seal $180/Gallon

A wedding gift for some awesome clients and friends. It really is square. I have a hard time getting a good picture of a picture. Fame is walnut. Fret work is 1/8" baltic birch with a 1/4" walnut plywood backer.

This is my first posting in quite a while - except for a couple projects here and there I really haven't been sitting at the scrollsaw a whole lot - my bad .... This project was one that has a bit of meaning so it was important to "get it right". "Minnie" is a 17 year old Daschshund and, despite showing her age, remains an enthusiastic Packers fan (along with her "Mom"). Minnie has been cut into Cherry and framed by Butternut (stained with red chestnut). The backing is 1/8 inch Baltic Birch stained black. Many thanks to yamatetsu, of this forum, for generously contributing the pattern making skills that made the project possible. Thanks again, Jay

I loved using a scroll saw in high school. 20 years later, I am going to get into this hobby with my kids. I look forward to learning from all of you!

I have a Delta 40-440 and the blade guard is only there because I haven't taken the time to figure out how to mount the air line, it's integral.

I took my guards off all saws I have owned, it is actually harder to turn and cut with them on and thankfully I haven't had an accident over the years.

I have purchased maybe 3-4 scroll saws over the years and have removed the guard. But, I would not suggest that a new scroller remove the guard as they will soon find out why others removed the guards.

An old timer once told me he cut his finger off with a scroll saw but he had to change blades twice. As Don stated the only saw I use with a guard is owned by our club when we are teaching. It is there for insurance purposes only.