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I ran across this in another forum and thought it might be of interest.

Well I finished the birdhouses yesterday. Not sure if i.m going to put string on them to hang up or just leave them the way they are.

It is in this one of her books. I see it on eBay for $4.39 and up in price. I purchased the book several years ago to build the little Merry-Go-Round. Got it all cut out and ready to apply a finish, assemble, and figure out how to mount the little music box I got for it. Unfortunately, the little girl I was building it for is too old now to care about it.

The third project, a test to see how far I can push myself and the material. This will be a decorative coffee cup wrap. 1/8" basswood cut with 2/0 FD Polar blades, speed reduced to 800 for control. The tail is 14 1/2" long and should wrap around the cup 2 times. This is a decorative piece and is intended to be for a cool display only, far to fragile to actually use.

Second project, a smallish plaque with a coyote howling at the moon. Forget to add info on the first project, I switched back to the long stroke on the Hegner, I just couldn't get it to cut the 7/16 plywood on the short stroke. For this project the plaque was 1/8" plywood so I switched back to the short stroke. I used 2/0 FD Polar blades and reduced the speed to 1000, my usual speed is 1400. This one's going on the back burner as well, I need temps in the 60's to be able to stain outside and let most of the solvent evaporate before bringing it back in to allow the stain to cure fully.

Made one of there is a physically challenged child confined to wheelchair will sand bottom of large wheels rounder

Wouldn't that give you carpal tunnel of the ankle?

That's what I call multi-tasking.

The original ShopSmith!!!

I buy my wheels for the over 1000 cars I make a year. While drilling wood for anything, you should use slow feed rate and high speed as compared to drilling metal.

Sorry for the delay in responding. I had asked Sue for a modification of one of her Easter patterns. I was willing to pay for it but she did it for nothing. I thought that was very nice and above and beyond.

For the M&L it’s whatever the invitation was. Don’t remember what I found to do the date as what was in the invite did not enlarge well.

I have made four of the Nutcrackers in various sizes. The best part is cutting the hair. You will swear nothing good is going to come of it with all the tiny pieces that fall out as you cut. But when you unpack it, there it is.

Black walnut bowl. Carol Rothman pattern, same book as ScrollerPete’s project. Bowl pattern is 8”x8”x3/4”. What I like about this, is there is no scrap at all, just the sawdust from the kurf of the blade, which happens to be a Pegas MGT#9. Oh and I suppose the scrap on the perimeter of the bowl. Lots of shaping/forming, (read sanding). A lot of fun to make. I plan on finishing it with shellac using the the French polish method. However, I don’t have the guts to attempt what ScrollerPete is doing. One of these days Pete, one of these days.

My latest pattern and project - Mechanical bee. 4 layers 1/8 inch, project size is 9,5 x 6 inches. Left one is photo of my project, right - 3D visualisation to show how it look like using 2 types of wood or stain Video of mkaing project Mechanical bee pattern

Hummingbird Finding Nectar intarsia pattern by Frank. All pieces cut, now ready to start sanding/shaping. Woods used include Yellowheart, Mexican Persimmon, Cherry, Walnut, and mystery wood.

Sunday's progress.

Fishnet. 36,5 x 45,2 cm, these are the first 6 pieces. Of 108. As usual, cut with a handheld fretsaw, as usual, the board is too big, but this time it's also too big for my cutting table. Fun times ahead

Been some rough days around the household and the office for a while, so I haven't done as much sawdusting as I'd like. Had John 3:16 on the saw for a while now, so this weekend, to get the motivation back (as well as needing some more bookmarks....never can have enough bookmarks!!) I grabbed a couple of quick cuts from the Pattern Library (maybe one or two from Google), resized for the bookmark blanks that I have, and knocked a couple out. Still have several more to cut today, but this is what's in-progress. I've been using one of the blanks with a really intricate wolf head cut in it, and

Thanks to all. I now have the pattern in hand. SSV comes through again!

When using a hole saw, keeping the teeth of the hole saw blade cool keeps them sharp longer. With the repeating circular motion, there isn't any place for the saw dust to go and the teeth get filled with saw dust, then become more of a friction cut than a saw cut. This heating will rapidly dull the blade teeth of all blades, regardless of if they are on a hole saw or straight cutting blade, or even a scroll saw blade. If the blade teeth can't be kept clear and build up with saw dust, this will happen. Most straight cutting or scroll saw blade cutting dumps the saw dust as the teeth exit the wood at end of stroke. A hole saw doesn't have this capability and continues to fill the teeth with saw dust with no where to clear them. An air gun aimed at the cutting point and frequent backing out of the hole saw blade will allow the compressed air from the air nozzle will blow the teeth and the cut clear of saw dust every time the hole saw is backed out of the cut and keep the teeth cutting well and not dulling rapidly. Saw blades of any kind can't cut if the gullet between the teeth are plugged up with packed in saw dust. They become friction saws and the heat built up from continuing to try to use it will destroy the blade teeth. Charley

I have a large collection of hole saws. I used to make all my wheels and still do for the odd sizes. I have never had a hole saw get too dull to use. Mine are old Vermont American brands. They may be high-speed steel, but I am not sure. Carbon steel saws will dull quickly if the get hot. Starting a few years ago, I began cutting wheels with a scroll saw. I must sand the edges using either method so the hole saws are retired. When using hole saws to cut wheels, I found it much easier to cut the hole, slightly overlapping the edge of a previously cut wheel's kerf, allowing the sawdust to escape. I would buy carbide hole saws if I needed to replace one. A batch of odd-size wheels I cut with a hole saw.

Carbide is your best bet. Always carbide for longer lasting drilling in anything. Lennox is a good brand.