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How time flies. I joined this group ten years ago which was the beginning of my scroll saw journey. So many members here gave me help and guidance. I can't thank you all enough. I have to give @Jim Finn credit for introducing me to inlayed box. That got me going on box building. Now I enjoy Inlaying and also incorporating intarsia into them.

For all you Gnome-holics out there. This is a little different in that it has arms compound cut. I modified one of Diana Thompsons patterns of a Dragon. Also, the person who requested this wanted 2 signs so the sign is held on by earth magnets and can be changed easily. PS: Please no political comments as I have enough of those on Facebook to sink a ship.

Yes they do. I think I just got lucky and a bit compulsive obsessive I just kept turning it back and forth and then when I got it... I marked them with a pencil.

Looks great @don in brooklin on. This was my take on Elbows Up. I did take two and turn them into earrings that I wear when I go out.

Alex Fox Basket #C30 Modified. I only cut 7 of the 13 rings making it wider at the base. I used 1/4" Hard Maple 8"square. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #1 MGT Blades. After sanding a ring, glue each ring and let dry. One coat spray Shellac, light sanding with a Mac Mop, and another coat with spray Lacquer Clear Gloss. Comments welcome.

Dave, I didn't realize the bird and dragon fly were inlaid, looking at the picture it looks mounted on top, RJ

I got put on the waiting list and a week later I got an email of acceptance. It's in two weeks and I'm stoked. Thanks for asking.

Barb what a great idea. I may steal your idea.

Okay that might make sense to me now after looking at the parts again. I was thinking that if I glue the pins that it wouldn't allow the door to move at all, LOL.. But looking it over again I think you're right. Maybe I'll go make another one and see what happens.

From what I can see, the top of the square hinge pin needs to be flush with the top of the retainer washer that sits atop the unit. If you glue those two pieces together first, let the glue cure, and then assemble the box upside-down, finishing by glueing the bottom of the square pin to the bottom of the box. Using this method will reduce the chance of glueing the box shut, and will provide a retention mechanism.

I like it!

So bringing this back up and looking for suggestions.. I made these yesterday ( not my design, I purchased a pattern from Etsy ) with my laser. I've actually made quite a few with my laser via several laser designs I purchased from etsy. So far we like this one the best but I have a complaint about the box doors. They swing open which is really neat, however when you swing them wide open the weight of them lifts up the hinge part off the stem and the door falls off if not careful. I've been trying to think of a way to solve the issue but I have no idea so I thought I'd share the photos here and a screenshot of the assembly directions that came with the pattern.. maybe someone here has a idea as I'm at a loss of ideas for the issue. Heck, maybe I'm not assembling it right.. I used no glue whatsoever other than the center part and the two circle pieces on top of the hinge..

Oh, my, Dave. Those boxes are works of art.

Good luck with it.

I used Steve Good's key chain maker. Not sure why they came out as small as they did. They are 3.5" long x 1/2" wide. Used 1/4" poplar. You don't have to steal it.... I give you permission

I have seen this done on here before so I decided to give it a try. I am celebrating my daughter's birthday tomorrow and I needed a box to put her jewelry in. It really was a fun project to do. It is a Carole Rothman pattern. I used walnut for the box and Holly, Purple heart, Canary wood and Bloodwood for the ribbon.

It sure does make sense. When you reverse the lid do the side ribbon still line up with the top ones? Any tips on getting the top ribbons square with the box. Sure would be easier if the box was square.

Thanks. The wings are quarter sawn sycamore. Both are inlaid into the tops otherwise. The dragonfly legs are so small there is no way I could have surface mounted them.

Very cute little fellow. I did not know the "Elbows UP" thing; I had to look it up. Did not surprise me to see it was related to Hockey.

If you want to cut out the letters, you need a font suitable for scroll sawing, meaning it can't have any 'floaters'. For example, if you want to cut an O from this font, you'd need to cut the inner circle, then the outer circle, leaving you with a big cut out circle and an o that you have to glue in separately because it doesn't have a connection to the O . If you use a font like this, you just have to cut along the black lines because all the potential floaters are connected to the 'background'.

I just wanted to share something that has helped me over the years. Being a bottom feeder, this works very well. Several years ago, I somehow acquired a spring-loaded nail set/punch. I have been using it for years to counter dent the holes on the bottom of a piece I am working on, so it is easier to find the hole and feed the blade into it. It actually works so well that often, I do not need to raise the piece high enough to see the hole. I can do it by feel. I have worn the punch out, so today I ordered a couple more. Here is a picture of the nail set and the nice indent it makes when used on a hole.

This type of punch can generate up to 82,000 psi at the tip. This is because all of the force is concentrated in a tiny area. I looked it up.

I use the same thing, a meatal scratch awl. Works nice on all woods no matter the thickness

Interesting, I would not think they pack that much punch!

I just did the rubber band trick and have no problems with either of my EX's.

I use a needle awl ( 1/16" shaft, from an xacto knife set ), a bead reamer, or a bead reamer Dremel bit depending on the project and how many holes there are. I'm using the needle awl on the current project, 1/16" basswood with #71 holes ( .026" ).

Sorry for the delay in responding. I had asked Sue for a modification of one of her Easter patterns. I was willing to pay for it but she did it for nothing. I thought that was very nice and above and beyond.

If you set up an account with her, you can access your past orders and re-download them if you should lose one.

Next time you go to town, visit one of the local jewelry stores, explain what you need and I'll bet they will either sell them to you or tell you where to buy them.