Leaderboard

All of my work is done with 1/8" baltic birch and 2/0 jewelers blades. The reason I use these is they have like 50 teeth per inch or some crazy thing like that. I have used FD and pegas 2/0 blades in the past and they are great but have their limitations. Mainly, they are very flexible and hard to control so doing very tight cuts is difficult. Plus the lack of teeth makes blow outs are tear outs a common thing. The jewelers blades are stiff , thin, combined with lots of teeth make fort great tiny inside cuts flawlessly. Talking in the mm scale cuts. Sounds great but the downside is the lack of reverse teeth. Just like any saw without reverse teeth, they will make an absolute mess on the backside of the wood. This leads to blow outs, tear outs and lots of repeated work to fix the mess. What I used to use was another piece of 1/8" baltic birch as a backer as I had a specialty yard near me where I could get endless amounts of it for a reasonable price. Times have of course changed plus I moved so no longer have access to it so needed a new backer source. this is how the giant popsicle sticks come in to play. They sell them in the craft section of walmart for a few bucks for a big pack. They are 1/16" sp perfect backer material. Just lightly spray them with 77 and let it become super light to the touch. hardly tacky at all. Thats the trick. it should be just the slightest bit of tacky, just barely enough to stick. Put them on the back of the piece and thats it. Too much tackiness and you wont be able to remove the popsicle sticks so its really use the lightest spray of super 77 and let it dry to barely tacky. Just finished a very intricate piece, no tear outs and it looks great.

I “decided” to add some Tolkien to my favorite clock today. “I wish it need not have happened in my time," said Frodo. "So do I," said Gandalf, "and so do all who live to see such times. But that is not for them to decide. All we have to decide is what to do with the time that is given us.” - J.R.R. Tolkien

How time flies. I joined this group ten years ago which was the beginning of my scroll saw journey. So many members here gave me help and guidance. I can't thank you all enough. I have to give @Jim Finn credit for introducing me to inlayed box. That got me going on box building. Now I enjoy Inlaying and also incorporating intarsia into them.

Many scollers asked me to make layered american truck pattern, finally I made it. Project size 9,5 x 7 inches, stand is optional, recommended to use wood stain or 2 types of wood American truck pattern Video of making project

Only drawback is, in Alabama, its legally probable cause to search my truck.

Well my grandkids wanted to know if I could make some bangles out of wood for them to sell and make money. I found a pattern on Sue Mey’s site. There were 15 different designs and three siges, sm, med, and lg. I have to say they were not that easy to make. Very slow process. Uses 1 1/2 x 1 1/2 x 4 inch square. Made some out of Walnut, Cherry and Birch, also made two out of Cedar and Butternut which I didn't take a picture of. Used a #7 skip blade

Just sharing a new (that I know of) idea for dealing with lots of ornaments. Plastic coat hangers, with notches cut into the top of the hanger rail. For storage I cut notches ( SS #2 Olsen spiral, if I had them I use a #5 ) every 1/2", for dipping I'll only go 5 ornaments per hanger. For storage I have the hooks of the wire ornament hangers in line with each other, for dipping I have them at right angles. I can get 25 ornaments per hanger for storage. I picked up some "miracle" hanger thingies. With the first package of 18 thingies I can store 525 ornaments easily. Tomorrow I'm going to pick up an inexpensive garment bag and see if I can transport the ornaments across town with it, hopefully without any damage.

Denny made birds for the miniature birdhouses with Spectraply, Idecided why not try to make the birhouses with it. Here is my first try.

I just looked them up and the price is $49.95. They sometimes are on sale.

Not so much bragging rights. I'm posting this as a "lesson learned ". As y'all know, we learn from our mistakes, not out victories. I was working on this hummingbird, ⅛ ply frame ans attempting to use stained glass for the colors. It was not going well. Between trying to fit the small pieces and the shear cost of the glass, not to mention the "cut you" factor, I bailed on using glass. So I'm giving another run with epoxy resin and have learned much with this hummingbird . As you can see in the pic, bleed out from the epoxy was crazy, something I hadn't counted on, but learned something which, in my opinion is a win. I know I didn't get a solid, full bond between the hummingbird frame and the backer board (painted silver). I plan to try to paint the frame to cover up the epoxy bleed, at any rate, wanted to share for anyone wanting to try or if you have suggestions on how to improve the process

I have one. I found it was a bit delicate for sanding. Probably good in some situations. But I usually prefer something a bit more aggressive. So, I don't use it much. I use sanding star/sanding mop similar to Gonzo's instead.

Hello Everyone Just found this site and looking forward to increasing my knowledge. We live surrounded by forest and often forage our own wood to use, including spalted maple, cherry, apple, ash, beech, and birch. Ruben

For all you Gnome-holics out there. This is a little different in that it has arms compound cut. I modified one of Diana Thompsons patterns of a Dragon. Also, the person who requested this wanted 2 signs so the sign is held on by earth magnets and can be changed easily. PS: Please no political comments as I have enough of those on Facebook to sink a ship.

This one that’s been “On the bench” for a couple of years is finally finished! Steve Good design. IMG_2406.mov

I like that clock, the "Tolkien" is a great addition.

Very nice and very small. Love it. Marg

I like Willie but I don't understand it, also like your truck, we call them Ute's, short fro utility. Marg

That sounds lovely Charlie Marg

Pegas has parts but not individually, just like seyco and Excalibur you have to replace the whole drive link system as a kit rather than the one or two bearings that are usually the main issue. Seyco sells the drive link for Pegas saws as does bearwood. But if you just want to order pieces nobody other than Jet has the individual parts unfortunately. With all that said, back when I was researching for my rebuild the individual parts if buying all bearings and sleeves was more money than just buying the link arms as a whole and then you don’t need to press the old bearings out and the new in etc. Back then I think the assembly was $114 but last I heard it’s more now. Best thing is if you have a spare saw is to pull one apart and just grease it up good before you need parts.

It has a 1/4" shaft, so it would fit in that chuck.

Do you know if it would fit on this thing. We sell these at Woodcraft....https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/KX11307/?gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAjw-qi_BhBxEiwAkxvbkKAaRhETwHOmhlum9PI8Z5VS47TNw304hwFkbYuYlx0jnyveLGrpdxoCVLMQAvD_BwE

3 hours ago, Denny Knappen said: I suggest checking with Ray at Seyco. He sold EX21s and no, also Pegas. He should be able to help. It sounds like Jet will be of the most help. It's odd that Pegas has no parts/service available for owners to repair their "out-of-warranty" machines.

Doesn't look that bad Barb. Don't be so hard on yourself.

No, Mine is mounted on my wood lathe. I want to mount it on a slow speed grinder I have, but it is too fast for me. Some day I want to set it up to stacked pulleys so I have some control of the speed. Got the parts, just have not taken the time.

Paul do you mount it on a drill press then as well?

Denny, yours must be about as old is mine. That is around what I paid, Now they are over $60!

I notch on the end is a function of manufacturing and does not indicate up or down.

As Paul said, I also use the Mac Mop on almost every project. It comes in several different grits. Completely assembled for around $40.

Thanks Marg. I should get a closeup of the little birds!

If you get the few bugs worked out, it looks like a real winner. In fact, had I not read your message, It would have been a real winner as is. Like many things, people don't know the bobos if you don't mention them.

Thank you, Marg. I’m thinking of adding some flowers to the white border sides, and You belong among-The wild flowers, to the top and bottom.

I have a MacMop and a sanding mop, both from Klingspor. What I would like to see is someone who has the Sand-o-Flex and a MacMop and/or sanding mop and can compare them.

I hang mine from the edge of a wire shelf or off the fence rail on my Shopsmith. I use copper wire for the hanger, which I cut from a piece of heavy grounding strap. .

A few years ago I did a parts list comparison for bearing and sleeve numbers via the manuals for each saw. According to the manuals I looked at they're the same thing inside as far as I could tell. I have not had my hands on a Pegas or a "real" Excalibur to take apart and actually compare them side by side. As you may remember I did buy Excalibur guts from Seyco a few years ago and installed them in my China EX-21 version and everything fit fine except the aluminum pieces that fit into the arm tubes at the front of the saw where the rocker arms connect.. The tubing size was smaller for the China saw so I couldn't use the inserts. I was able to take the rocker arm assemblies apart and install them into my china made parts so those were the same otherwise. Be interesting to see if each saw uses the same quality bearings / sleeves.. just because the sizes are listed the same doesn't mean the brand / quality is.. The China saw certainly had cheaper looser bearings in it vrs. the ones that I got from Seyco..

I make many different types of boxes. The ones I posted are pain but finished inside. Some I put inserts for jewelry.

Well the cutting is done, now to decide about the backboard (thinking green) and the framing P.S. cut 2 at once

I had hoped this piece of Cedar was the right wood but did not turn out like I had hoped.....Working on a 2nd one on Adler wood...I really liked Charlie's pattern and wanted to do it justice..Thanks for looking. Steve,