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Wanted to do something to remember the beautiful Pheasants, which used to be plentiful in our area. Now it is very exciting to see one. Been hearing on but have not spotted him yet. This is a Mike Williams pattern, 1/4" BB. Both straight and spiral blades were used. Got to take a day and make frames, I have 4 pictures waiting for frames.

Dog Portrait - Abby pattern by Gayle at the Scroll Saw Cafe. I enlarged the pattern to fit the wood. I used 1/4" Baltic Birch plywood 12" square and backed with black mat board. Cut on the Pegas Scroll Saw using Pegas #0 Spiral blades. I kept the large pieces in place for sanding the fuzzies off the back side. After sanding, a light coat of spray Shellac, another light sanding with a Mac Mop, and a final coat of spray Lacquer Clear Gloss. Comments welcome.

I have seen several of Steve's patterns uploaded here, whole and in part, in the past. This is just a reminder that he doesn't want the patterns uploaded to other sites. See today's blog post.

Thanks for the reminder. This is also a reminder that only patterns you have designed yourself can be uploaded to SSV. Please don't post other people's patterns, even if they are free. These talented artists are gracious enough to share their work, but they want to be able to control how their patterns are distributed. Reposting just strips that away from them. So, if someone is interested in a pattern you found somewhere else, point them in the right direction and provide a link to where they can download it for themselves. With that said, if anybody sees that one of Steve's patterns has been uploaded here on SSV, please flag it for me to review so I can remove it. Thanks all!

Ray: The simplest way to do it is behind the scenes Ask if anyone is available to help with your request then the 2 of you can P.M. or email each other. Fab4

I was going to suggest the same.

I asked chatgpt to give me a list of categories of this village. then I wanted it to add tip and tricks into each section. I had to tell it a few it missed. pasted below.... **Categorized Tips & Advice for Scroll Saw Art Forms** --- ### 1. Intarsia - Use woods with natural contrasting colors (e.g., walnut, maple, cherry). - Shape pieces using a drum sander or Dremel for depth. - Dry-fit often—subtle changes can throw off alignment. - Use reference photos to inform contours and shadows. - Avoid plywood—solid wood gives better shaping results. --- ### 2. Functional Projects - Reinforce weak joints with dowels or glue blocks. - Choose durable woods like oak or maple for longevity. - Use templates for repetitive shapes (e.g., handles, brackets). - Ensure all moving parts (e.g., lids, drawers) are sanded smooth. --- ### 3. Portrait - Start with high-contrast photos and simplify in photo editing software. - Use #2 or #3 blades for fine facial detail. - Use a lightbox or tape over a window to align multi-page patterns. - Back portraits with black felt, matte board, or velvet for depth. --- ### 4. Fretwork - Drill small, precise pilot holes to reduce tear-out. - Use fresh blades and slow speed for intricate cuts. - Tape top and bottom of the stack to reduce splinters. - Clean up fine cuts with needle files or micro-sanding tools. --- ### 5. Trivets - Use hardwood for strength (e.g., maple, beech). - Avoid excessive inside cuts to maintain stability. - Round over edges for a finished look and safer handling. - Apply heat-resistant finishes or leave unfinished for safer use. --- ### 6. Puzzles - Use softer woods like poplar or Baltic birch for smoother cutting. - Number or mark pieces on the back before cutting. - For name puzzles, slightly round edges for easier handling. - Add pegs or knobs for younger children’s puzzles. --- ### 7. Ornaments & Seasonal Decor - Lightweight woods like basswood or thin plywood are ideal. - Include a small hanging hole or loop in the design. - Seal with clear coat to protect delicate areas. - Consider stack cutting for efficiency. --- ### 8. Layered Art / Segmentation - Paint before assembly for cleaner results. - Use a numbering or labeling system to track layers. - Slightly round exposed edges for depth. - Use flat spray adhesive to tack layers without glue seepage. --- ### 9. Inlay & Marquetry Cut both the inlay and background at the same time for tight fits. Use veneers or thin woods for better layering. Apply thin CA glue or wood glue with a toothpick. Clamp flat during drying to avoid warping. Use an angle calculator or bevel gauge to precisely match angled cuts when inserting thicker wood into a base—this ensures flush, clean seams with minimal gaps. --- ### 10. Lettering & Signage Use bold, clean fonts for better readability. Sand and seal inside edges to prevent fraying. Layered backings can improve visibility on light-colored walls. Use double-sided tape or mounting tape for easy hanging. --- ### 11. Finishing (Including Dye) Sand progressively up to 320+ grit before applying finishes. Use wood dyes for vibrant color that maintains grain visibility. Test dyes on scrap wood to preview results. Apply clear coats like shellac or polyurethane to protect and enhance. Use steel wool between coats for silky-smooth finishes. Avoid oil finishes under water-based topcoats—they may not bond well. Use painter’s tape to mask off joints or areas not to be dyed. --- ### 12. Compound Cutting Use stacked patterns—glue side and top views on adjoining faces of a square blank. Drill entry holes before interior hollowing. Use aggressive skip-tooth or reverse blades (#5 or #7) for thick cuts. Cut one side, tape the offcut back in place, rotate, then cut the second side. Wrap the blank in packing tape to reduce friction and heat. Sand inner curves with files or rotary tools. Practice on pine/poplar before moving to hardwoods. Use CA glue and blue tape to temporarily rejoin pieces between cuts.

Been a woodworker for 50 years but new to scrolling this year. These are my first two Sheila Landry designs I did in 1/2 inch cherry

that's fantastic, beautiful bird

Paul, wow that is beautiful, you have done an excellent job of cutting, RJ

Well done.

Beautiful job, Paul. Pheasants are beautiful birds. Enjoyed seeing this piece. Dick

I hope you feel better soon. I have no excuse, I am just not fond of making frames.

Beautiful piece, Paul. I also have a few projects needing frames. I've started them but the cath lab got in the way. I'm hoping I'll feel up to finishing a couple this weekend.

A question does come to mind that might need some clarification. In the past I have tried working with patterns, that I scanned from books that I have purchased, trying to alter them in Inkscape. I uploaded my scanned patterns to get some of the Inkscape gurus to help me with what I was trying to do. How would I work around that situation? Let me be clear that none of these patterns were bought individually. They were either from Steve Good or from Fox Chapel books. This seems to be an area that needs to be cleared up. Thanks Travis for your patience.

Wow! Very nice piece. How big is it? As for pheasants, We are very fortunate. Our land abuts a wildlife management area. It seems to be teeming with pheasants. I attribute that to two winters in a row that weren’t too terribly bad.

Thanks! I agree that sometimes people need a reminder.

After a long, cold winter I'm again able to do some scrolling out in my scroller shed without freezing my .... Here's a Russ Beard design cut into 1/4 inch Baltic birch with Pegas 1 & 3 MGT blades. It was stained white, added a black backer and placed into a frame made from scrap 3/4 inch pine stained gray. Finished size with frame is 10.25 x 13.5 inches. I really like Russ Beard's designs and have already started another. Lots of holes, but easy to cut.

Welcome to the Village Vern from Australia. Marg

Welcome from Southern Europe!

Welcome to the village from SE Idaho

Welcome from Delaware. Steve Good has a few bee patterns you may like.