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Wanted to do something to remember the beautiful Pheasants, which used to be plentiful in our area. Now it is very exciting to see one. Been hearing on but have not spotted him yet. This is a Mike Williams pattern, 1/4" BB. Both straight and spiral blades were used. Got to take a day and make frames, I have 4 pictures waiting for frames.

2 people ordered my hats. Both orders are from ex-co-workers. One wanted Red Oak ! He wanted a symbol called Ahm. Being one with the universe. Flat brim. The other guy chose Padauk !! This guy wanted a bear showing claws. Brim curved. If you bend Padauk let's form a new discusion. It did not bend like other wood did. So I had to experiment. Me. Mark Eason

There are several "Arm Lifters for DeWalt and some Delta scroll saws. They are a very simple device. I would think, looking at them, one could easily make one that would work on the Bauer. I would make one and dismantle the Bauer one. I know there is a long thread on here about modifying scroll saws. But every scroll saw and most other tools I own, have been modified in some way to meet my desires. One way does not fit all.

I agree, I think that's your best bet. We just want to make sure we're not inadvertently sharing patterns that we didn't design ourselves.

I know I've seen a couple topics covering LED light strips. I've never messed with them at all so any info some might have on them I'm all ears.. Here is the project I'm currently working on.. It's not a great photo so I'll try to explain a little to what I'm trying to build and maybe some will have some suggestions.. Here is a photo of a 1/8" 12 x 12 mirror tile that I laser engraved. I have a frame design that this will fit into with a slot / opening to feed power cord through for the LED lights. I was originally going to just paint it ( maybe still will if the LED light plan doesn't work ) but thought putting lights around the inside of the frame might be a nice touch. BTW this is just a Christmas gift for my sons girlfriend so not something I'm selling. So I guess my question is.. what LED lights to use? I seen these at HF but 25ft is a lot and was hoping for something a little cheaper. I'm guessing I only need 4-5 ft of lights.. was thinking about painting the backer white and running lights around the inner edge of the frame so it's like a light box or box frame with lights, LOL. https://www.harborfreight.com/12-ft-led-tape-light-70030.html These lights would be perfect but 25ft is overkill, however if i could cut them up and make new lights for more of these mirrors it'd be great.. however there is only one remote and plug as far as I can tell. So maybe I need to look elsewhere for a shorter strip of lights or a roll of lights where I can make my own and buy power supply and remote individually. Or can I buy these HF lights and purchase power supplies and remotes separately somewhere? I placed this on my slider window frame to show how the light shines through.. just thought if I could get color changing LED's they could pick green for the grinch and have it light up.. if not then I'll just paint the back green. Sorry Photo isn't the best but it's pretty hard to take a picture of a mirror, LOL

Really great work lovely birds.

I have seen several of Steve's patterns uploaded here, whole and in part, in the past. This is just a reminder that he doesn't want the patterns uploaded to other sites. See today's blog post.

At the top of the post, click the 3 dots for a menu of options. Choose Report. Then a poppup shows up where you can report a post. I get notified along with the link to the post and I can take care of it. Thanks for asking. I know it's a bit hidden.

Beautiful cutting Paul. Jeff

I like mine I just found a piece of wood to put under the arm just before it locks into place.I can't wait till I can get back into it.

Possibly a hobby lobby store? Or maby buy another item with the lights you need and pitch the rest.By the way nice ornament.

I went to the local store. They had a few different sizes.

Ray: The simplest way to do it is behind the scenes Ask if anyone is available to help with your request then the 2 of you can P.M. or email each other. Fab4

Last Christmas I made set of Gnomes, they became popular, so I decided to make a big set of holidays gnomes. Set includes 24 patterns: 3 gnomes for each of 8 holidays: Christmas, Thanksgiving Day, Independence Day, Easter, Halloween, Valentine's Day, St Patrick Day and Labor Day. Size of each gnome is about 6,5 x 4 inches, consists of 4 layers, stand and hanging ring are optional. Video of making one of gnomes Holidays gnomes pattern

Local Walmart or online? They sell about anything online and these days it's hard to tell on the website if it's something in stock or sold by a third party seller, LOL..

I asked chatgpt to give me a list of categories of this village. then I wanted it to add tip and tricks into each section. I had to tell it a few it missed. pasted below.... **Categorized Tips & Advice for Scroll Saw Art Forms** --- ### 1. Intarsia - Use woods with natural contrasting colors (e.g., walnut, maple, cherry). - Shape pieces using a drum sander or Dremel for depth. - Dry-fit often—subtle changes can throw off alignment. - Use reference photos to inform contours and shadows. - Avoid plywood—solid wood gives better shaping results. --- ### 2. Functional Projects - Reinforce weak joints with dowels or glue blocks. - Choose durable woods like oak or maple for longevity. - Use templates for repetitive shapes (e.g., handles, brackets). - Ensure all moving parts (e.g., lids, drawers) are sanded smooth. --- ### 3. Portrait - Start with high-contrast photos and simplify in photo editing software. - Use #2 or #3 blades for fine facial detail. - Use a lightbox or tape over a window to align multi-page patterns. - Back portraits with black felt, matte board, or velvet for depth. --- ### 4. Fretwork - Drill small, precise pilot holes to reduce tear-out. - Use fresh blades and slow speed for intricate cuts. - Tape top and bottom of the stack to reduce splinters. - Clean up fine cuts with needle files or micro-sanding tools. --- ### 5. Trivets - Use hardwood for strength (e.g., maple, beech). - Avoid excessive inside cuts to maintain stability. - Round over edges for a finished look and safer handling. - Apply heat-resistant finishes or leave unfinished for safer use. --- ### 6. Puzzles - Use softer woods like poplar or Baltic birch for smoother cutting. - Number or mark pieces on the back before cutting. - For name puzzles, slightly round edges for easier handling. - Add pegs or knobs for younger children’s puzzles. --- ### 7. Ornaments & Seasonal Decor - Lightweight woods like basswood or thin plywood are ideal. - Include a small hanging hole or loop in the design. - Seal with clear coat to protect delicate areas. - Consider stack cutting for efficiency. --- ### 8. Layered Art / Segmentation - Paint before assembly for cleaner results. - Use a numbering or labeling system to track layers. - Slightly round exposed edges for depth. - Use flat spray adhesive to tack layers without glue seepage. --- ### 9. Inlay & Marquetry Cut both the inlay and background at the same time for tight fits. Use veneers or thin woods for better layering. Apply thin CA glue or wood glue with a toothpick. Clamp flat during drying to avoid warping. Use an angle calculator or bevel gauge to precisely match angled cuts when inserting thicker wood into a base—this ensures flush, clean seams with minimal gaps. --- ### 10. Lettering & Signage Use bold, clean fonts for better readability. Sand and seal inside edges to prevent fraying. Layered backings can improve visibility on light-colored walls. Use double-sided tape or mounting tape for easy hanging. --- ### 11. Finishing (Including Dye) Sand progressively up to 320+ grit before applying finishes. Use wood dyes for vibrant color that maintains grain visibility. Test dyes on scrap wood to preview results. Apply clear coats like shellac or polyurethane to protect and enhance. Use steel wool between coats for silky-smooth finishes. Avoid oil finishes under water-based topcoats—they may not bond well. Use painter’s tape to mask off joints or areas not to be dyed. --- ### 12. Compound Cutting Use stacked patterns—glue side and top views on adjoining faces of a square blank. Drill entry holes before interior hollowing. Use aggressive skip-tooth or reverse blades (#5 or #7) for thick cuts. Cut one side, tape the offcut back in place, rotate, then cut the second side. Wrap the blank in packing tape to reduce friction and heat. Sand inner curves with files or rotary tools. Practice on pine/poplar before moving to hardwoods. Use CA glue and blue tape to temporarily rejoin pieces between cuts.

I got some at Walmart

Look on Amazon for Crafter's LED lights. All different styles, lengths and colors. Not much to them.

Mark, just spit balling here. What do you use to drill your pilot holes? If you use Seycos scroller drill, the you could think about the following concept: Cut the bands out for the hat. Attach the pattern to the inside surface. Using the scroller drill, drill the pilot holes. Position the band on the scroll saw so that the top of the band is above the top scroll saw arm. Using small spiral blades, cut out the pattern. I've been thinking about this issue for awhile, but health issues are keeping me from it loop

I helped a turner friend make a bowl, I did the scroll saw work. This is a segmented bowl, and much larger, but it might give you an idea.