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This is just the latest process that I'm using. It's constantly evolving and I'm looking forward to seeing any ideas from other scrollers that might improve on it. Getting new ideas and learning new tricks is something that I have always enjoyed about meeting other woodworkers and seeing their work. Applying The Pattern Affix your pattern to the wood. This is a Celtic cross design from Sue Mey that I like. Interior Cuts Make your interior cuts. I use an air compressor to blow the dust out of the wood. Then I cover the face of the design with a double layer of packing tape to use as a backer for the resin. Resin Dam I use common plumber's putty to build a (dam) around the design. Epoxy After trying many different brands. I found the Promise brand deep pour tabletop epoxy works best for me. I also use a digital scale to make sure that I get an exact 50/50 mix to the gram. Dyes & Powders I use Alumilite dyes and powders. Adding Color It doesn't take much of either. 1 drop of the dye and just a little of the gold and green powders. The amount of powder shown here is about twice the amount needed. Mixing When you are mixing. Mix the resin and colors slowly while scraping the sides and bottom of the container. Try to keep the air bubbles to a minimum. Pour Then slowly pour the mixture trying to fill all the holes evenly. Popping Air Bubbles Once poured. I use a cheap hair dryer to heat the resin and get as many bubbles out as I can. Let The Epoxy Cure I let it sit for 24-36 hours to harden. I keep my shop around 70 degrees. Trimming The Epoxy After the has hardened, I remove as much of the plumber's putty as I can and run it through my planer to level the back surface down to the clean wood. I make very shallow passes. Maybe 1/32 at a time. Exterior Cuts Now I drill an entry hole and make the exterior cuts. Support Material I save the wood from the outside of the design and peel all the tape off. I put the piece back into the wood that I cut it from and tape the back side to hold it. This is to protect the piece while running it back through the planer. Final Planing Then I lightly shave the front of the piece down until I get it down to clean wood. Finishing Then remove the piece and sand. I start with 100, 220, 320, 400, 600, and finish with 800. Once done you can apply the finish of your choice. I use clear polyurethane. Final Project I hope you enjoyed reading about my process and I look forward to seeing the projects you make. The next photo is a different cross but shows what it looks like when finished.

I'm doing an Inkscape video series on Scroll Saw Goodies. This first video explains what Inkscape is and how to get it. I go through and prepare a downloaded pattern (kindly provided by Clayton!) for printing. I do this technique each and every time I print a pattern and it works really well for me. Let me know if you have any questions, I'd be glad to help. Enjoy!

Saw's Bevel Gauge Most saws have a basic bevel gauge built in. Often times this is below the saw along the rocker. A simple needle points to the gauge marked on the rocker to indicate the angle. My scroll saw has a gauge built into the table, which makes it easy to see. This is a good way to get in the general ballpark, but not very accurate nor repeatable. Use this gauge if you don't need repeatable angles, or if accurate angle isn't necessary. Protractor A simple protractor is an easy way to get an accurate reading. You can pick one up for a couple of dollars at an office supply store. Make sure you buy a small enough one where you can lay the protractor against the blade. Line up the bottom of the protractor to the center mark, then adjust your table to the appropriate angle. Paper Protractor I like using a paper protractor. Download this paper template here. Use spray adhesive to attach it to some 1/4" plywood, then cut it out with your scroll saw. The nice thing about paper protractors is you can write on them. Use a red pen and draw a straight line from center point to the appropriate angle. Then simply adjust the table and line up the red line with your blade. You can also write notes on the protractor for each project (IE Bowl. 20 degrees for 3/4" stock.) Digital Angle Gauge I use a digital angle gauge. I picked mine up for about $30 on Amazon. This is super accurate, getting within 1/10th of a degree. You turn it on, place it on the bed of your scroll saw, then push the "Zero" button to zero out the gauge. Then you can start tilting your saw until you get your exact angle. This is my favorite method. I also love being able to use the gauge on other tools where I need an accurate angle. The magnetic bottom will attach to a table saw blade as you tilt the blade. Smart Phone Phones now days are amazing. They even have a built in angle gauge. I usually have mine within easy reach and it's very convenient. I use the iPhone, and the gauge is listed under the "compass" app, which is pre-loaded on your phone. Swipe to the left to get off the compass and onto the angle gauge (level). Place the phone on it's edge, then tilt your bed. Be careful to keep a hold of your phone. You don't want it to slide off onto the concrete floor (I won't tell you how I know this). This is super convenient. The only draw backs is your table has to be level with the floor to begin with (no zeroing option) and it only measures to the degree, not a fraction of a degree. I'm sure there are other free apps that address these issues, but the built in app works well enough. TCF002_Protractors.pdf