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If you discovered the wonderful world of scroll sawing and want to try it out for yourself, you may want to dip your toe into the hobby without spending a lot of money. With so many options ranging from entry-level saws around $120, to mid-level saws around $400, to the more expensive models running $1000+. The WEN 3921 saw seems very appealing at only $120. But is it a good starter saw? Let’s take a closer look. Pros Good value - The most appealing part is the affordable price point ($120) Small footprint - It doesn’t take up much space and is easy to store. Easy access to on/off switch - Located up front, it is easy to flip on and off the saw between cuts. Variable speed control - Adjustable knob up front to control the speed of the saw. Tilting bed - This option allows you to cut at compound angles. This is useful if you want to do inlay work or make scroll-sawn bowls. Sideways cutting - You can flip pin-ended blades 90 degrees so the saw cuts from the side. That way the back of the scroll arm doesn’t get in the way of long rip cuts. The only advantage could be if you don’t have any other saws in the workshop that can cut or rip down larger materials. Otherwise, this feature probably wouldn’t add a whole lot of value to hobbyists. Adjustable LED light - The extra light is nice, especially since you can aim it to where you're cutting. However, the saw vibration does cause the light to shake, causing a distracting stropelike effect. Cons Blade changing - This can be frustrating when using pinless blades. Hobbyists typically prefer pinless blades over pinned ones, as pinless blades provide better-quality cuts and greater flexibility. The WEN 3921 includes two options for using pinless blades. The first set are adapters that hang on the existing hooks. The second set will permanently change your saw from a pinned blade setup to a pinless one. Unfortunately, there are little to no instructions on installing the permanent kit and you must rely on YouTube videos. Steve Good has two really good videos demonstrating both kinds of pinless blade adapters: Using the hanging pinless blade adapters (at the 8:01 mark) Permanent pinless adapter (recommended). Vibration - This saw does have a fair amount of vibration, which makes it difficult to get precise cuts. Excessive vibration can make it hard to achieve accurate entry points, especially when working on fine fretwork. Adjusting the saw speed can help reduce vibration, and securing the saw to a sturdy workbench or table should also improve stability. Air blower - The function of an air blower is to blow sawdust away from your cut. This allows you to see your cut better as you follow the line. This air blower is a bit fiddly without a lot of adjustments. It’s simply a hose that you point in the general direction, without the ability to precisely direct the airflow. Conclusion Overall, the WEN 3921 is good for what it is. It is an inexpensive scroll saw that can get you started in the hobby. It lacks many of the niceties that higher-quality scroll saws provide, such as smoother operation, less vibration, and ease of blade changing/threading. The build quality isn't ideal, so it might not be a good choice if you're planning on production cutting. But it should be sufficient to get started making some fun projects for friends and family. With that said, I started off with an inexpensive Craftsman scroll saw and used it for years before upgrading. So you still can do some very nice projects. However, your quality of life and enjoyment of the hobby will be much greater if you can justify spending a little more money for a mid-level saw or higher. Other Options Consider A Better Saw Woodworkers often say “buy the best tool you can afford.” That may be an inexpensive scroll saw from Harbor Freight, or the WEN 3921. The problem with these is that it may cause undue frustration and you have less control, which may turn you off to this wonderful hobby. If you can swing it, think about a mid-level scroll saw such as the DeWalt or the Delta. Many hobbyists really like the DeWalt. These mid-level scroll saws take care of many of the shortcomings of the inexpensive scroll saws, making it much less frustrating experience. Blade changing will go much smoother (you’ll be changing and threading the blade into interior cuts a lot). And, you’ll get much less vibration, making detailed cuts much easier. You’ll be much happier with your experience and outcomes. There is a good chance that you'll want to want to upgrade your saw pretty quickly. So the $120 you spent on the entry-level saw could instead be invested into a better quality saw that gives you a much better experience and results. Shop For Used Buying new might is not your only option. You can find a lot of used scroll saws on the secondary market, often with very few hours on them. A little patience will pay off if you keep an eye out on Facebook Marketplace or Craigslist. You should be able to find a nice scroll saw for a very reasonable price. Sometimes they'll even throw in a few blades and accessories! Additional Resources Steve Good has a very nice overview of the WEN 3921 that is worth watching. Here are the specs, manuals, and member reviews for the WEN3921. Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts has an article about the WEN 3921 in Issue 84 - Fall 2021 Do you own the WEN 3921? Share your experiences in the comments below!

One of the first questions a new scroller often asks is, “Which scroll saw blade should I use?” After all, the sheer number of options can be overwhelming and they don't know where to start. Often the answer they receive is “it depends,” followed by a flood of advice. And while this is true, sometimes someone new to the hobby just wants a simple answer: “Here, buy this.” Hopefully, this article will help. Where to Buy Scroll Saw Blades While hardware stores carry scroll saw blades, these are often designed for construction, not hobbyists. They’re usually too thick, don’t cut as well, and harder to control. For finer, more detailed work, you will want to order specialty blades from an online store that specializes in scroll sawing. But don’t worry, they’re pretty cheap. There are 3 big brands of scroll saw blades for hobbyists: Flying Dutchman, Pegas, and Olson. I only have experience with Flying Dutchman, which I buy from Mike’s Workshop (not sponsored), so I’ll focus on that. However, the blade sizes and tooth configurations are similar across the other brands. So, Which Scroll Saw Blades Should I buy? Let’s keep it simple. If you’re just starting, I recommend buying #3 scroll reverse and #5 scroll reverse scroll saw blades. These two blades are the workhorses in my shop and I rarely need anything else. #3 Scroll Reverse - This is my go-to blade, handling about 75% of my projects. It leaves clean, smooth cuts and offers great control for tight turns, sharp inside corners, and straight lines. The blade pivots and turns easily. It works well on thin materials without getting too squirrelly, and it works well on thick materials without bogging down. #5 Scroll Reverse - I use this blade for thicker materials and hardwoods. This blade is more durable and performs well with anything over ¾”. Since the blade is thicker, it doesn’t wander as much, which makes it ideal for projects that have long straight lines or sweeping curves. The trade-off is that it is harder to turn and pivot. So, fine details are more challenging to achieve. It may also be a bit aggressive for thin materials. FYI: The number is the size (ie, thickness) of the blade. “Scroll reverse” means that the bottom of the blade has teeth facing the opposite way. This reduces tear-out (or fuzzies) on the back of your project and generally produces a smoother finish. How Many Should I Buy? This is rather arbitrary. However, my go-to blade is a #3 scroll reverse about 75% of the time. They are typically sold in bundles of 12. You’ll also go through a lot of them, so make sure you stock up. Remember, blades wear out. As soon as a blade stops cutting smoothly, replace it. You'll get better results and a more enjoyable scrolling experience. Luckily, blades are cheap, usually costing between 25-45 cents each. It's common to replace your blade several times in a project. So if you’re just starting out: #3 Scroll Reverse - 4 dozen #5 Scroll Reverse - 2 dozen Feel free to adjust these numbers to take advantage of bulk discounts or to make shipping more economical. What About Spiral Blades? This is a subject that has been debated…a lot. Personally, I love spiral blades. But, I only use them in certain situations. It is very tempting for beginners to start with spiral blades because they seem (the key word here is “seem”) easier and you have a lot of flexibility. However, I recommend you learn with flat blades. Here’s why: Scroll sawing is about blade control. It’s learning how fast to feed your project into the blade, applying the right pressure, and following the patterns smoothly. Flat blades offer more control and stability because they only cut in one direction, making it easier to follow your lines. If you veer off track, you can easily guide the blade back to the line. Spiral blades, on the other hand, will cut in all directions. This makes it challenging because if your feed rate or pressure is off, or the blade gets caught in the wood grain, the blade will continue to cut. As a result, you’ll get uneven/wiggly lines, and your results will not look very professional. So, to recap: Flat blades provide better control for straight lines, sweeping curves, and sharp corners. I use flat blades for most of my projects. Spiral blades are useful for patterns with irregular or organic shapes with many interior cuts, such as portraits or scenic designs. They can also be useful in situations where it is difficult to spin your workpiece because of the size or other limiting factors. What Next? From here, it’s all about experimenting and trying different things to see what you like. Try a different brand. Try different sizes or tooth configurations. If you tend to cut thick hardwoods, you might want to try a larger blade with a skip tooth configuration. If you like doing jigsaw puzzles, maybe a smaller blade with a thinner kerf and more teeth per inch is what you need. If you’re cutting unusual materials, a different blade may make all the difference. The key is to experiment and ask what others use to see what works for you. Did I miss something? Do you have any recommendations for a new scroller? Leave a comment below.

When you've been away from the scroll saw for any length of time, your skills get a bit rusty. Cut a few lines on these practice patterns to get the feel of your scroll saw again before beginning a new project. It'll only take a couple minutes to sharpen those skills, and your project won't suffer by being out of practice. These patterns cover a wide variety of cuts; sweeping curves, tight radius, long straight lines, jagged edges, sharp corners, etc. I even threw in a few shapes to keep things interesting. Download the FREE scroll saw practice pattern below. Print several copies of pages 2 & 3. Spray mount them to 1/4" plywood. Drill pilot holes at the beginning of each line as well as starting point for your shapes. Follow the lines as close as possible. For shapes, try cutting the inside or on the outside for variation of different skills. Cut a few lines before starting your next project. If you're a new scroller, these practice patterns are a great way to build your skills and confidence. A few tips: Cut a bunch of these practice patterns and keep a stack of them by your saw. Pull one out before you start your next project. Don't throw away the shapes. Toss them in a box. When the Holidays roll around, they make great gift tags and ornaments for those last minute gift ideas. Don't get too frustrated if you're not following the line well. Correct your course as best as you can. When you're feeling a bit more confident, move on to your bigger project. TCF0003_Practice.pdf

Applying Patterns Transfer Method Drawing - One of the most direct ways of putting a pattern to your workpiece is simply draw your pattern onto the wood. This is a good method for simple patterns or to rough out a shape. However, it gets difficult for complex patterns and is limited by your drawing ability. Carbon Paper - Carbon paper is an easy method to transfer your pattern directly to the wood. Place your carbon paper between the pattern and the workpiece, and trace your pattern. The pressure from your pencil will transfer the carbon from the carbon paper to your workpiece. Graphite - If you don't have carbon paper, you can make your own. Flip over your pattern. With a soft pencil, lay down a thick layer of pencil. Once you have a nice thick layer, flip your pattern over and retrace your pattern onto the wood. The graphite from your pencil will transfer to your workpiece. Heat- This method requires a photocopy or a laser print. Make sure you flip your pattern in your imaging software so it prints backwards. Using a household iron will melt the toner on the paper and transfer it to the wood. Turn your iron up to the highest setting. Tape your pattern face down on the wood and iron the back of the pattern. Add firm pressure and go slowly. It will take time to transfer the wood, so check your work periodically. They also make special tools for using this transfer method. Acetone - This method requires a photocopy or a laser print. Make sure you flip your pattern in your imaging software so it prints backwards. The acetone will soften the toner and transfer it to the wood. Soak a paper town and apply the acetone to the back of your pattern. When the paper turns translucent, use the back of a spoon to rub the pattern into the wood. Warning: Acetone is highly flammable and has noxious fumes. Use safely in a well-ventilated area and away from flame. Inkjet - This method requires an inkjet printer. Make sure you flip your pattern in your imaging software so it prints backwards. Take a sheet of labels and peel off all of the labels. What's left behind is a waxy surface. When you print our pattern, the ink from your inkjet printer will stay on the surface and will remain wet for quite a while. Carefully place your label sheet face down onto your wood and wipe the back of the pattern with a paper towel to transfer the wet ink to the wood. This method can also be used with butcher paper. Cut the butcher paper to fit your printer and print it onto the waxy surface. Using Substrates The most common way scrollers attach patterns to their workpiece is by using a substrate. A substrate is a material put directly onto the wood, then the pattern is glued to the substrate. This method protects the wood from the glue and often makes pattern removal easier. Depending on the substrate, it may also offer lubrication for the blade to minimize burn marks. Blue Painter's Tape (Substrate) - The most common substrate scrollers use is blue painter's tape. Painter's tape has low tack which makes pattern removal easy. The wax on the tape also acts as a lubricant for the blade. A good quality painter's tape is recommended as their cheap counterparts rip too easily and may leave behind a sticky residue. Contact Paper (Substrate) - Contact paper are used as shelf liners and can be found in the kitchen area of your favorite store. Contact paper comes in large rolls, which is wide enough to accommodate most projects. Simply roll out what you need and apply the contact paper to your workpiece. Glad Press'n Seal (Substrate) -Glad Press'n Seal has a surprisingly strong bond when attached to a workpiece. Tear off enough to fit your workpiece. With the back of a credit card, press the Press'n Seal into the wood and trim off the excess. Since Glad Press'n Seal does not use any glues, there is no chance of leaving behind a sticky residue. PVA Glue (Attach) - You can use a basic white glue to attach your pattern to the substrate. Simply spread the glue onto the back of the pattern, and place it onto the substrate. Smooth out any air bubbles and wait at least an hour for the glue to dry. Glue Stick (Attach) - If PVA glue is too messy, you can use a glue stick. Some glue sticks have a colorant added. When the glue is wet, the glue shows purple but will dry clear. This type of glue stick makes it easy to know where you've applied glue. The drying time is much quicker; 15-20 minutes or less. Rubber Cement (Attach) - Rubber cement will add a really strong bond. To use, apply a thin coat of rubber cement to the back of your pattern and a thin layer to the back of your substrate. Allow each to dry until it becomes tacky like a Post It Note. Then carefully apply the pattern to the substrate. When the two layers of rubber cement meet, it will create a permanent bond. Full Sheet Label (Attach) - Here is a super-easy way to add your pattern to your substrate. Simply print your pattern on a full sheet label. Peel off the back of the label and attach to your substrate. Full sheet labels can get costly, but what you lose in expense, you make up for in convenience. Spray Adhesive (Attach) - The most common way for scrollers to glue a pattern is by using a spray adhesive. There are 2 ways to do this. The main way is to spray the back of the pattern and wait for it to dry so it's tacky like a Post It Note. Once dry, you attach it to the substrate. For a more permanent bond, spray both the back of the pattern and the substrate. Wait for each to dry so it's tacky like a Post It Note, then carefully attach the pattern to the substrate. Once the two glue surfaces meet, it will create a permanent bond. Directly To The Wood The method that is growing in popularity is gluing the pattern directly to the wood. Using a spray adhesive, spray the back of the pattern (don't spray the wood). When the glue has dried so it's tacky like a Post It Note, apply the pattern to the workpiece. This method is growing in popularity because it requires no additional materials. Pattern removal is easy and will practically fall off with a little mineral spirits. (See Pattern Removal below.) Removing Patterns Peeling - This is the most obvious way of removing your pattern. This works especially well when using a substrate as the pattern and the substrate peel off together. If getting the edge of your fingernail under the pattern is difficult, use a Xacto blade to help it along. Be especially careful when removing patterns from your workpiece. Peeling may add additional stress to the already delicate fretwork and we don't want to break off any fragile pieces. Sanding - You can also sand the pattern off. This method works great when using an image transfer where the pattern is transferred directly to the wood. You can also sand away paper patterns. But be careful. The friction of the sandpaper may soften some of the glue and work the glue into the wood fibers. Just take it slow and don't spend too much time in any one place. Take extra care when sanding delicate fretwork. The action of the sander may add extra stress to the delicate fretwork. You may choose to use a less aggressive sander like a vibrating mouse sander or simply sand it by hand. You can use a sanding pad for additional support and keep it from sliding around while you work. Heat Gun - A heat gun will soften up the glue and make pattern removal much easier. A high-intensity heat gun used for stripping paint and wallpaper works best. You might be able to use a hairdryer. Just put it on its highest setting and work one section at a time. Mineral Spirits - A popular way of removing patterns is using Mineral Spirits. Mineral Spirits is a solvent, so it will soften and dissolve the glue. You can buy odorless mineral spirits, so it's great for indoor use. Just make sure you protect your work surface. Mineral spirits work especially well when you attach your pattern directly to the wood. Just wet the pattern. Once it turns translucent, the pattern practically falls off on its own. Just peel it away and you're good as new. Mineral spirits is also good for removing any sticky residue left behind from tape or glue. Just apply and wipe away. For easy application, add it to a spray bottle. That way it's ready to go whenever you are. Simply spray the back of the pattern and remove. ---------- So, what did I forget? Do you use a different technique I didn't cover here? Let us know below.