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Showing results for tags 'drill press'.
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I have a drill press that has the older style round table with slots cut into the table. I wanted a better way to attach jigs and such. The original table attaches to the DP with a round piece that is clamped on the table support. I removed the table and found that the round piece is slightly smaller than a standard plumping size. I bought several floor flanges of the appropriate size along with plumbing nipples to match, I used my 1 x 30 belt sander with an 80 grit belt ( heavy leather gloves are a must ) to reduce the diameter of the nipple so that it fits the DP's clamp. I sanded the top of the flanges to make a shoulder that rests on the table support clamp, to ensure the alignment is maintained I now have: 1. the original table 2. the plywood table ( backing surface for drilling fretwork, I also use this for positioning jigs for repeatable holes ) 3. a cross slide vice permanently mounted to it's own table ( I use this to accurately drill holes for the hinge pins in the double lidded fretwork basket that I make, 1/8" hole in 5/16 thick piece, just no room for error ). 4. A HF drill press table on it's own support.
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As to going beyond the typical drill press throat depth, think outside the box ( and upside down ). I want to do large live edge panels that are way beyond the throat depth of my current drill press ( 7 1/2" ). I have a dremel plung router ( too much slop ) and the reviews on the drill guides are iffy at best. So I thought that I could beef up the rafts and mount a drill press upside down above a workbench, remove the head from the column and reinstall the head, what would now be right side down. But most drill presses will not allow this, but there are some. Here is one example: https://www.grooves.land/bosch-tischbohrmaschine-pbd-bosch-hardware-electronic-pZZa1-2097583520.html?language=en¤cy=USD&_z=us&srsltid=AYJSbAd-dcHA4dK5-N-c6ABb6X-Jvf0254o1vej3oStdj7F6thsvPn61w14. I have not done this myself, yet. Just thinking outside the box.
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Sorry about the original post and I missed Ray saying his bit was too short. He also got a mini chuck which I am certain will help with small bits as they can move in the chuck. I cut a block from a 2x4 and as you can see there are prominent growth rings which can make the drill bit wander. These rings can also make doing a compound cut difficult. When drilling with a small bit, you need to bring it back up often to clear the chips. The picture shows a 1/16" bit and I drilled a hole through the 1-1/2" block. I use a larger drill bit for my compound cuts as the 1/16” bit is short and can easily break and more difficult to thread a blade through. Even with a longer bit, you still face the issue of wandering and breakage. I typically use a 3/32” bit which is 2-1/4” long and much easier to grip in a chuck and drill through a block of wood. Also, easier to insert a saw blade. Of course the pattern may dictate what size you need. I have cut a lot of 3D ornaments and making them out of this type of wood is more difficult than others. There are hard spots and then soft spots can break.
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