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I have a wonderful antique pedal scroll saw that I have only been able to use a few times. I NEED HELP FINDING A PROPER DRIVE BELT. I have used the round leather sewing machine belts without much luck. They stretch and are usually not long enough so they have to be spliced making them week. I've found several belts long enough but they are to thick or wide to travel through the wheel track. Please let me know if anyone has successfully found or created a belt for this unit. I really miss using it!

Hello! - I'm new here - I decided to join because I need to learn A LOT and because I've been unable to find a solution to my problem. That problem is that my scroll saw bucks like a rodeo bull and the plastic insert seems to act like a spring rather than as a stabilizing unit. It also doesn't fit properly and "catches" everything I try to saw, but that's a separate problem. Anyway, I feel that I must be doing something terribly wrong - am I the only one with this bucking/bouncing/trampoline problem...? - The scroll-saw I have is a WEN 16" super-basic. Yes, it was cheap, but it is all I can afford. Blades, on the other hand - my go-to are Pegas modified-geometry blades. I've followed the charts regarding blade size, and wood thickness. I've been working exclusively with hardwoods, and at that, mostly tropical hardwoods. Most are only 1/4" thick. The Pegas blades did *reduce* the bucking, but it's still bad. - I had tried adding a strong-but-thin cutting board on the table ((with a hole in it, of course)), and it helped, but was nevertheless an imperfect solution. I also used JB-Weld to fill-in the entire underside of the plastic insert, and added some pieces of steel rod for more support - again, some reduction, but it's still so bad that I can't do much of anything at all, because the bucking tears-up thin wood no matter how hard I try to hold it down. ((I also don't understand why the hold-down foot also seems to be universally awful, judging by the number of complaints I've seen about them.)) - I also did try reducing the clearance with everything from tape, to stiff plastic sheet, and so on, and I've just finished gluing some 20-gauge stainless steel sheet that I cut out ((I use aviation snips, so there is a definite limit on what I can cut by hand)). The height difference between the insert and the table, despite being enough to catch wood and mess-up what I'm doing, is nonetheless too small to permit the addition of any "topping" that adds any actual support. - What I am wondering is, Why are table inserts so universally **awful**...? And especially, Does anyplace sell or make properly-fitting *metal* inserts? It doesn't make sense to me that the *table* is so strong, but when it comes to the place where strength, support, and smooth movement are the most necessary, the only thing one can buy is the same plastic junk that causes the problems in the first place. - I'd ideally like something made of steel plate <!> but I have the feeling that having one made would cost more than the machine, meaning, far more than I can afford :( - - ANYhoo, I'd be very interested in whether others have had these problems, and whether there are solutions that can be arrived at by someone with very little equipment and only a room in one's residence within which to work... - - Many Thanks in Advance for any information, links, advice, or heck, even a Hello, LOL! - - Kris