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When making cutting boards, utensils, bowls, or any project that will come into contact with food, choosing the right finish is important. A good, food-safe finish does more than enhance the appearance of the wood, it protects the wood from moisture, stains, and bacteria. Here are a few food-safe finishing options to enhance your next project: 1. Mineral Oil Mineral oil is a popular choice for its price and ease of use. It can be found in most pharmacies. This is non-toxic and odorless and will penetrate deeply into the wood, enhancing its natural grain while providing a protective barrier. Regular reapplication is necessary to maintain the finish, especially for cutting boards and butcher blocks. When it starts looking dull, add another coat or two until it no longer accepts any more mineral oil. 2. Beeswax Beeswax is often used in combination with mineral oil to create a soft, food-safe finish. It provides a natural sheen and a bit more durability than oil alone. You can even make your own blend by carefully melting 1 part beeswax into 4 parts mineral oil. Once it cools for a DIY wood conditioner. 3. Walnut Oil Walnut oil is a natural option known for its ability to harden over time. However, it’s worth noting that some people have nut allergies, so this finish might not be suitable for all applications. So make sure whoever the recipient is, does not have a nut allergy. It probably isn’t suitable for baby or children’s toys, either, for the same reason. 4. Tung Oil Pure tung oil is derived from the seeds of the tung tree and is a durable food-safe finish once it has fully cured. However, it may take several days to fully cure. But it will create a long-lasting natural finish. Apply a thin and even coat, then remove any excess. Let the oil cure for 24-48 hours before adding another coat. Appling 3-4 layers will give your project a nice protection and sheen. 5. Shellac Shellac is a natural resin secreted by the lac bug. It may sound gross, but this traditional finish has been used for over 3,000 years and is often applied in fine woodworking projects because it enhances the wood grain and provides a glossy and durable finish. It is particularly useful for decorative items like bowls and serving trays. Shellac resin is dissolved in alcohol and can either be sprayed or brushed on with several thin coats. 6. Carnauba Wax Carnauba wax is derived from palm leaves and is a hard, durable wax that’s often used in conjunction with other finishes. It creates a high-gloss, water-resistant surface, which is ideal for utensils and other projects that come in contact with food. To apply, warm the carnauba wax before rubbing it into the surface. You can use a double boiler to gently melt the wax. Then apply the melted or softened wax to your project with a paper towel. Once it cools, you can buff the wax with a clean rag to a nice sheen. 7. Butcher Block Conditioner I like using an off-the-shelf solution such as Butcher Block Conditioner. You can find this at most home improvement stores, or here online. This formula is nothing more than a blend of mineral oil, bees wax, and carnauba wax. But, I like the convenience of having it ready to apply to my project. I simply apply a liberal amount to my project and let it sit for 20 minutes. Then I wipe the excess off with a clean paper towel and buff it to a nice sheen. When my project starts looking dull or dry, I apply another coat. Tips for Applying Food-Safe Finishes Clean Thoroughly: Ensure the wood is clean and sanded smooth before applying any finish. Apply Thin Coats: Build up the finish gradually to avoid uneven application. Let It Cure: Allow adequate time for curing, especially for finishes like tung oil or shellac, to ensure they are safe for contact with food. Re-apply As Needed: Regularly re-apply finishes like mineral oil and beeswax to maintain protection. By selecting the right food-safe finish, you can protect your scroll-sawn projects while keeping them safe for everyday use. Experiment with these options to find the perfect match for your project!
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I finished cutting these today, and dipped in Watco Danish Oil Natural for 1 minute. They have been drying in the shop (60*ish) for a couple of hours. The shop will probably be 50s most of the night. They are 1/8" Baltic Birch Ply. For those of you that dip in Watco a lot....would you: 1. Call it good and ship tomorrow? 2. Dip a second time...how long? Ship tomorrow or Sat.? 3. Spray a topcoat? With what? Ship tomorrow or Sat.? Thanks
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Hi Ladies & Gentlemen, Sorry I have been following most of what is happening on this great forum but honestly have not had any time to participate in the conversations Now I need some finishing advice on this. I made this for a friend. This is a Steve Good pattern except I added the name of the recipient in the middle section. I am not sure whether to glue the pieces together first and then stain OR the other way around. I am afraid if I glue first, the stain would NOT take on the corners where the glue would be (I had a bad experience with that). But I stain first, then the glue would not stick as well to the wood. Please, use your experience and throw some advice my way. I would really appreciate it. Sam
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I made a bunch (20ish) of animal puzzles from a book, each one has 4-8 pieces and is approximately the size of the dog puzzles that all the cool kids are doing these days. I need to apply a clear finish and because there are so many nooks and crannies on the sides I want to try that dipping thing that some of you have mentioned where you dip it in a vat, shake it off, and set it aside to dry for a while. But here's the kicker - all the pieces are colored. Some with milk paint, some with regular stain, and some with water based wood dyes and yet others with watered down acrylic paint. So what's a decent clear coat to dip in that will adhere to the wood but won't dissolve any of the colors? thanks Joe.
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Finally got enough bird houses cut to start thinking about finishing. Decided on clear Danish oil. Worried that I would have to "babysit" them and keep turning if I tried to soak them in a pan to keep all sides wet and submerged. Instead, I packed them in a pint canning jar and poured it completely full and then screwed on the lid. When soak time was done, I blew off the excess with the compressor and hung them to dry for a few hours. Worked like a charm. Good even finish and no drips or bubbles. These are destined to be Christmas presents, so I am going a few extra steps with them like painting the birds. Pictures when I get them done. Have about ten more glued up to drill and cut. (Work is much easier in poplar--started with maple and just about made firewood out of the whole lot.)
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I ran across this video today and thought it was a clever idea. Especially since we often work in the same area as we finish in. This works especially well for us scrollers, since we tend to work on smaller projects.