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Showing results for tags 'hawk bm'.
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I typically use the Hegner for Puzzleboxes, but, the Hawk BM series claims to go 2.5", and have a longer stroke, so I thought I would give the Hawk a try and max it out. Here I use Padauk glued to Maple, and am using the Pegas #3 from a batch Hawkeye graciously let me have to try out. The kerf on the Pegas is pretty freaking tight for staying true at 2.5", so this is a very very good test. I did have to switch out "Thumb Screws" to find one that wasn't oriented in the down position when tightened (or I wouldn't have had clearance). I love making these puzzle boxes, I'll post the completed box if I don't mess it up. ------Randy
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Even with a really waxed table, there was too much drag to freely spin my medium sized fretwork pieces around. For those of you that have experienced this on the dw788 table (with the heavy mill marks), you already know what I'm talking about. BM table mill marks (at least on my particular saw) are "sharper"/more pronounced, if that makes sense. Anyway, the drag was unacceptable. This image will give you an idea of the issue. So, I took a trick from the dw788 playbook, and used the same general approach many have done on the 788 to smooth my Hawk table. 1. Got out the random orbital sander, but on the 110 grit, and went over the table.2. Switched to 220 grit and went over the table3. Put a cloth over the end of the sander, and put that sander on steel wool4. Put Mothers Mag and Aluminum Polish on the table, With just a cloth covering the end of the sander, I buffed it several times5. Re-Waxed it. So, did it work? Absolutely. There is very little drag and I can predictably spin the fretwork piece now. Anyway, maybe someone out there will find this helpful, maybe even a 788 owner with aggressive machine marks in their table. -------Randy
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This is the my first coin I've cut on the Hawk BM. The Pattern was purchased from Sue Mey. I was curious is the Hawk could do it, but it cuts this type of thing pretty well. The coin was a once U.S. bronze one dollar, that I flattened to .025" and is about 2" tall.
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On the Accessory arm, there are some holes (above the air line) meant to be used to hold the clamps steady while you tighten the blades. This isn't quite a sophisticated as the Hegner approach, but I think it will work fine. Of course, my saw didn't have the hole drilled in the correct location for their newer clamps Nilus said the existing holes were for prior blade clamps, but that they would add the third hole for the current clamps going forward. I have no warranty (for multiple reasons), so they are not obligated nor did they offer to fix it, which is ok, because I have a tweak that will work for me. So the forward hole that supposed to fit my clamp, per the manual is too low. There is nothing I can do about that without grinding into the arm. The second hole, which was for some other clamp is too high, so I can work with that. That just means I have to find a spacer and glue there to make it fit. So I rolled a piece of metal (A Fat Coin) to a thickness of .066", and glued it above the second hole. If it stays there, it will work fine. Here is how it supposed to work according to the Manual First Hole Intend for this per the diagram above, but too low Second Hole Intended for another Clamp Type, but too High Here is the fix with the metal Spacer SuperGlued into Place
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Since there is not a lot on the Hawk stuff out here yet, I thought I would post some information on troubleshooting the blade clamps. One of the bottom clamps I got with the saw would have definitely caused the prior owner issues, but he apparently gave up and went back to his 788 before he found the issue. With a little inspection, I think it's pretty obvious what he needed to do to fix the issue. The first clue something may be wrong Hard to see down that dark little hole, but there is only threads, and no sign of the set screw But looking down the knob hole, there is a sign of something else. This was removed easy enough by poking/loosening it with another blade.
