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Here is a fun little project you can knock out in an afternoon. These little wooden jack-o-lanterns will certainly delight and add some spooky decor to your house this Halloween. This project is made from cedar fence boards, so they're super cheap to make, and they look great! Step 1 I'm using cedar fence boards. Not only are they super cheap (between $3-4 per board) they have a rough-sawn look that will really make the project look great! The cedar fence boards have little fuzzies on them. Using 80 grit sandpaper, I knock off those fuzzies. I don't want to get it too smooth. The character of the uneven surface and milling marks is what makes this project sand out. Step 2 I'm cutting down each of the panels on the table saw. You can certainly cut out the panels with your scroll saw using the full-sized drawings in the pattern. I'm making 2 jack-o-lanterns, so I doubled the number of panels I need. For each pumpkin, I need two of each of the following: Top & Bottom 5.5"x5.5" Front & Back 4.5" x 6" Sides 3.5"x6" Caps & Inset 3.5"x3.5" Step 3 I like to paint the inside of the jack-o-lanterns so it reflects the light better. It's easier to paint them now than later. For the front and pack panels, I'm taping up the edge. I don't want any paint on these edges, since it will be visible on the outside. Step 4 I'm giving it a quick coat of white primer, followed by a quick coat of yellow spraypaint. I don't worry too much about perfect coverage. In fact, it looks better when there is variation in the coverage. Step 5 I grab my front panel and attach my scroll saw pattern to it. I use spray adhesive on the back of the pattern, then stick it to the front. Step 6 At the drill press, I make pilot holes for the blade to fee through. You can also use a regular hand drill. Step 7 These patterns are really easy, and you'll be able to knock these out in a few minutes. I'm using a #3 scroll reverse blade. Step 8 Time for assembly. I'm using standard wood glue and brad nails to pin it together. You can also use regular hammer and nails. Just be careful not to split the wood. Step 9 For the bottom, II put the box on the bottom panel and trace around it. I'll use this as a guide so I know where to put my brad nails into. I don't do any measuring, just eyeball it. Step 10 With the traced side facing up, I lay down a bit of glue. I know where the perimeter of the box is, so I know where to drive my nails into. Step 11 The inset is supposed to fit inside the box so the lid nestles in nicely. This will be a bit too big and will require some trimming. Just trim off a little on each end until it fits. I don't like it too tight, just enough where it will settle in nicely. Step 12 I glued and sandwiched the top panel between the inset and the cap piece. The cap is only decorative. I didn't bother nailing this one. I just put a little weight on the top and let the glue dry. Step 13 With a propane torch, I went outside and scorched the box. This is a lot of fun and will make your jack-o-lantern look awesome. Keep the flame moving, or you'll get uneven scorch marks. Step 14 I'm using a water based stain from Minwax I got at the big-box store. They can tint the stain any color you want. Naturally, I chose pumpkin orange. I applied the stain fairly heavy, then when I was done with the side, I quickly removed the excess with a paper towel. For the face, I dabbed on the stain, trying hard not to get it into the cuts. I found it easiest to work on one side at a time. Apply stain, then quickly wipe it away. Step 15 I found a stick outside and started stripping away the bark. We'll use this as our stem on our pumpkins. I like to find interesting parts of the stick, just to add a bit of interest. Step 16 On the scroll saw, I trimmed off sections of the stick to make the stem. I also sanded the bottom edge on a belt sander to get it flat. Step 17 I drilled a hole through the top of the box. I also drilled a pilot hole into the bottom of the stem. I'll attach the stem with a screw that goes through the bottom of the box and into the stem. Step 18 I painted the stem with regular craft paint. I painted it on and quickly wiped off the paint with a paper towel before it dried. This gives the stem a stained look and you can still see the wood grain. Once dried, I attached the stem to the lid with a screw from below. I also tied a bit of raffia around the base of the stem for a little extra pizzazz. Step 19 I'm using battery-powered fairy lights. I like this set because it had different displays, as well as a remote and timer. I've put a link to the ones I got here. Happy Halloween! Final Project

Make these cute Mama Bunny and Baby Bunny cars for the little ones in your life. They also make awesome Easter decorations. They're super simple to knock out, so make a whole batch of them. Enjoy! Step 1 With spray adhesive, attach your pattern to the wood blank. I align the bunny ears along the grain to give it extra stability. I also added some packing tape to the top to secure the pattern. Step 2 At the drill press, I'm using a 1/4" bit to drill the axle holes for the wheels. Step 3 I'm using the same drill bit to drill a shallow divot where the bunny's eyes are. This is optional. Step 4 At the scroll saw, I cut out the perimeter. I'm using a #3 scroll reverse blade. Step 5 With some sandpaper, I soften the edges for little fingers. Step 6 You can choose to paint the bunnies before assembly. I'm using standard craft paint. Step 7 I'm using a clear acrylic spray for added protection. Step 8 I cut down some 1/4" dowels to about 2" long. These are longer than you need, but we'll cut them down later. Step 9 You can make your own wheels, but I find it's easier to just buy them premade. You can find those here. Step 10 We're going to glue up the half of the axel/wheel assembly. With a toothpick, I apply glue to the inside of the wheel. Then with a hammer, I tap the axel into the hole so it's flush with the other side. Clean up any excess glue, and set aside to dry. Step 11 I made a couple of jigs for the last part. The first is scrap wood with a hole in it. This allows you to tap the axel into the other wheel and have clearance for it to protrude from the other side. The second is a credit card with a V notch cut into it. Put this between the wheel and the bunny to create the perfect spacing for the wheel. Add glue to the inside of the 2nd wheel, put it on top of your scrap wood jig, thread the axel assembly through the axel holes in the bunny, put the credit card spacer between the wheel and the body, then tap the axel into the 2nd wheel. Use a scrap board so you don't damage the wheel with your hammer. Step 12 With a flush-trim saw, trim the protruding axel flush with the wheel. Final

Step 1 I'm using 1/4" Baltic Birch Plywood. I get mine on Amazon and they come in 12x12" panels. I'm ripping it to 5" wide. So total, it's about 12"x5" Step 2 I like to pre-sand my plywood before scrolling. We have to sand it a bit later anyway, so you could skip this step if you want. I'm only doing 120 grit. Step 3 You'll need to tape together your pattern. Just hold it up to the light and align your two sheets together and tape it. Once taped, I applied it directly to the plywood with spray adhesive. Step 4 I took it to the drill press and drilled some pilot holes. I like to approach the line in the corners, so I try to get my pilot holes near that. Step 5 Then we take to to the saw and start cutting out our pattern. My go-to blade is a #3 scroll reverse blade. There is a lot of waste area, so you can easily notch out the sharp corners. Step 6 Once everything has been cut out, I spritz everything down with mineral spirits. It softens the glue and you can easily pull the pattern away. Then I wipe it down in case there is any glue residue. Step 7 I'm using a 2x4 and cutting them into 1/4" strips. It doesn't have to be exact. This provides lath/shiplap style strips that are 1/4" thick and 1.5" wide. Length just needs to be long enough to cover the back of your sign. Step 8 Since I want a rustic/farmhouse style, I want to age these strips. I use a rotary tool and roughly soften and gouge the edges. I don't want it to look perfect. I want it rough. Step 9 I painted each of the strips in pinks, purples, reds....ya'know, Valentine colors! I just use the cheap craft paints you get at the craft store for less than $2 each. If you want to order some, here's a nice set. Step 10 With red craft paint, I painted the inside of the letters. I'm not too concerned if it gets on the front of the project because we'll sand off that paint in step 13. Step 11 With some 120 grit sandpaper, I sand away some of the paint on the lath strips. I just want to expose some of the wood on the edges and rough it up a bit. This gives it a nice aged and distressed look. Step 12 With some wood glue, I adhere the strips to a backer board that matches the sign we cut out. (12"x5") Step 13 Again, with 120 grit sandpaper, I give the front a sanding, mostly to clean up the messy paint job. I only want the inside of the letters to be red, not the face. Step 14 Pour yourself a coup of tea. I'm using black tea to add some color and and splotchiness. This gives the strips an aged look. The tea back broke open for a bit, so I let some of the leaves just sit and dry. Then I brushed it off after. It adds a nice touch. Step 15 Back at the scroll saw. I just cut off the pieces that extend beyond the backer board. Step 16 I'm using wood glue to glue on the sign to the backer. Don't get too close to the inside of the letters. You don't want to have to clean up any glue squeezeout. I used clamps to add some pressure, but you can set a big encyclopedia on it (do they still make those?). Step 17 For the frame, I'm just using butt joints. I think it looks nicer for farmhouse-style projects. I'm using Oak because I like the wood grain. I painted it red, because....Valentine's day. But you can use whatever you have on hand. Step 18 Now to clear coat it. Any clear acrylic spray would work here. I prefer Deft Wood Finish, though. I pick it up at Fred Meyer's, but I'm sure you can find it locally too Not as common as Krylon or Rustoleum, but certainly not obscure. I'd choose a satin finish. Step 19 Add a wall hanger and sign the back. Then you're done! Final