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Scroll saw blades break. It happens to all of us. And when it does, it scares the bejesus out of me. When a blade breaks mid-cut, it’s not only surprising but also frustrating, especially if it interrupts the flow of your project. However, understanding the reasons behind blade breakage can help you avoid this problem and keep your projects on track. Here is a list of common reasons why scroll saw blades break and their solution. Enjoy! Improper Tension Getting the tension just right can be a bit of a Goldilocks situation—too loose, and the blade will bend and flex, causing uneven cuts and eventual breakage. Too tight, and you’re risking a snap, especially on harder materials. Solution: Adjust the tension so it is firm and doesn’t deflect much when you apply pressure to the side of the blade. You can also gently pluck the blade like a guitar string. If you get a clear "ping" sound you’re good to go. Here's how it sounds on my saw: blade_sound.mp3 Excessive Pressure It is tempting to push the wood through faster to save time, but scroll saw blades aren’t fans of being rushed. This adds strain and can cause overheating, which wears out the blade quicker. You may also be adding pressure to the side of the blade without even realizing it. Solution: Relax and let the blade do its thing! Use a light, steady hand and let the saw do the work. Imagine guiding a knife through butter— no extra effort is needed. Your cuts will come out smoother, and your blade will last longer. Sometimes you don’t even realize you’re adding excess pressure. What I do is release the pressure on my workpiece from time to time to see if the workpiece springs back. This is especially helpful to see if I’m adding side pressure. Dull Blades Blades don’t last forever. A dull blade struggles to cut, requiring more pressure and increasing the chances of snapping. You might notice your cuts looking fuzzy or uneven. Solution: Keep an eye on performance. If you find yourself pushing harder or the edges of your cuts start to look rough, swap out the blade. For me, I’ll use a new scroll saw blade every time I start a project. It’s common to use several during a project, depending on the complexity and materials I’m working with. Blade Selection Using the wrong blade for your project is like wearing flip-flops on a hike—it’s just not a good fit. Fine-toothed blades struggle with thick wood, and coarse blades can be over-aggressive for delicate work. Solution: First and foremost, you’ll want quality scroll saw blades. The hardware store variety usually arn’t very good. You’re better off buying quality blades from someone who specializes in scroll sawing. Don’t worry, they are not very expensive. Popular brands are Flying Dutchman, Pégas, and Olson. From there, match the blade to the job. For thicker woods, go with a blade that has fewer teeth per inch (TPI) to handle the strain. A skip tooth configuration will help with clearing out the sawdust from the kerf. For intricate designs or thinner materials, a higher TPI works well. Blade packaging usually provides guidelines—don’t skip reading it! Here are my go-tos: Thin Materials (⅛” - 1/2”) - Flying Dutchman #3 Scroll Reverse. This will also work with ¾” softer material such as pine and poplar. Thicker Materials (¾” and dense material) - Flying Dutchman #5 Scroll Reverse or Flying Dutchman #9 Scroll Reverse if I don’t need the detail. Overheating Friction is the enemy. Cutting thick or dense materials without pauses can make the blade overheat, weakening it to the point of snapping. Solution: Adding a layer of either masking or packing tape to your workpiece will act as a blade lubricant and can make a big difference. It will also help reduce burning on susceptible woods such as cherry. Depending on the thickness and density of your material, sometimes the blade has a tough time clearing out the sawdust. This will cause the cut to take longer and heat up. In this case, look for a skip tooth blade If you’re tackling thick wood, adjust the speed to reduce friction. Misalignment A crooked blade is bad news. Misalignment puts uneven stress on the blade, making it more likely to break. This often happens if the blade isn’t seated properly or the clamps are overtightened. Solution: Before starting, make sure the blade is perfectly straight and aligned with the saw’s table. The teeth should face forward and down. Tighten the clamps snugly but not so much that you risk bending the blade. Regularly check alignment as you work. You can also check the positions of the set screws in the blade clamps. Make sure the blade is seated nicely between the set screws and not being crimped. What did I miss? If I missed anything or if you have any suggestions that would help new scrollers, please leave it in the comments below!

There are two main types of scroll saw blades: pinned and pinless blades. Scroll saw hobbyists prefer pinless blades because they offer a greater variety in blade choice, can cut more intricate details, and can make smaller inside cuts. On the flipside, pinned blades are designed for construction and general woodworking where precision and detailed cuts are not needed. The main disadvantage of pinned blades is that you have to drill a larger pilot hole (6mm) in your workpiece to thread your scroll blade through to accommodate the pins set into the blade. This severely limits the detail you can cut into a project. However, not all is lost. @Wichman, in this thread, describes how to modify a pinned blade so you can do more delicate inside cuts. His process is described below. Tools You’ll need: Pinned scroll saw blade Safety pin Needle nose plyers Vice grips Step 1 We want to remove only the pin from the top of the blade. The bottom pin will remain in place. With the vice grips, lock onto the pin at the top of the blade so it doesn’t move. Step 2 With needle-nose pliers, wiggle the blade side-to-side (not end-to-end lengthwise, or the blade may break). The pin will eventually slide out of the hole in the blade. Step 3 The safety pin should now fit into the hole left behind from the removed pin. Using your modified blade A small spring clamp will keep your blade engaged in the lower clamp while you thread the blade through the pilot holes in your workpiece. Note that the bottom pin is still in place and wasn’t removed during the conversion process described above. Once threaded through the pilot hole in your workpiece, slide the safety pin through the hole in the top of your blade where you removed the pin. This will allow your top blade holder to secure your blade for cutting. Example Here is an example of a project made using this process. As you can see, if you cannot use pinless blades for whatever reason, you can convert them so you can still do intricate interior cuts and still make amazing projects. This article was adapted from this thread and edited by @Travis.