Blade changes, how often?

[TexasJeff]

Okay I just started my first real project yesterday. I got done cutting it out and I am not very happy with the results, lots of sanding to do. I have had my scroll saw (Harbor Freight) for about a year now and have only done a couple projects with it for some other hobbies. I am using one of the blades (pin type) that came with the saw, not even sure what it is but seems to be pretty coarse maybe 10-15 teeth per inch. I was cutting 1x material and the cuts don't seem as smooth as I thought they would be. I did just order some new regular blades today from Lesley's Patterns (Super Intro Pack) because I knew the pin blades could never do some of the more detailed work that I am planning. So to my question, how often do you change your blades, and how do you know when they are to dull to do the job you are doing.

 

Thanks,

Jeff

[Scrolling Steve]

Jeff if and when you get a answer to this question let me know........so many things come into play !....I have learned the hard way not to try and get that extra cut out of a blade...my experience has been the dull blade causes problems for me...just my two cents.

[Scrappile]

Steve is correct in my opinion.  I think it is good you bought an intro pack, practice with the different blades to find the kind that suits you best.  In time you will get a feel for when the blade is getting dull.  Do not be afraid to change blades if you feel it is getting dull.  Blades are pretty cheap. 

[LarryEA]

This is a tough question, I know the answer for Me.

First, for scrolling, I have never used a pinned blade.

When to change a blade?

Assuming you are using the best blade for the wood you are cutting, 

.......

Hate to say it, but it is experience for me.

If I don't like the way it cuts, it is either the wrong blade for the wood or it is dull.

[orangeman]

I wouldn't expect that Harbor Freight included top of the line blades with your saw.

 

There is a wealth of information at this link:  http://www.mikesworkshop.com/DaveG.htm

 

Personally I use Pegas blades for my hardwood puzzles and Flying Dutchman puzzle blades for my Christmas cards made from 1/4" Baltic Birch.

[WayneMahler]

Experience is the best teacher.Being around for a while everyone's cutting procedures differ a bit. I go by the way the blade moves through the wood. If you have push to feed, the blade is probably dull. It can wonder off line and all sorts of things too. Olsen has a blade chart on their website. A good guide for starting out. Gives you a rough idea of blades vs wood. Welcome to the addiction and keep it fun. 

[amazingkevin]

''i get  1-2-3 hours  out  of  a blade depending on what i;m cutting and if I'm in a hurry.This is with mikesworkshop.com scroll reverse blades. ;)the harbor freight machine is not a smooth running machine to get blade life from!

 

Okay I just started my first real project yesterday. I got done cutting it out and I am not very happy with the results, lots of sanding to do. I have had my scroll saw (Harbor Freight) for about a year now and have only done a couple projects with it for some other hobbies. I am using one of the blades (pin type) that came with the saw, not even sure what it is but seems to be pretty coarse maybe 10-15 teeth per inch. I was cutting 1x material and the cuts don't seem as smooth as I thought they would be. I did just order some new regular blades today from Lesley's Patterns (Super Intro Pack) because I knew the pin blades could never do some of the more detailed work that I am planning. So to my question, how often do you change your blades, and how do you know when they are to dull to do the job you are doing.

 

Thanks,

Jeff

[ike]

when i feel that the blade needs a little extra force to cut it is time to change.another way is to feel the blade and if it is hot you should change. I just cut a pattern with 335 holes I used 3 sized blades  I used 1 # 2 - 5 # 3 and 2 # 5. that is a total of 8 blades or $4 worth of blades. When I felt that it was getting harder to saw with a blade I changed. Experiance will be your best teacher.The blades you get with a scroll saw are not top notch blades. I recommend Olson's or Flying dutchmans . 
they are alittle more coastly but are worth it, I use mostly Olsons and that is my feelings of what is a top blade.

[Sorcier]

I started scrolling with the blades that came with my saw and almost gave up.  I was lucky enough to find some Olson's and was back on track to happily scrolling.

Ward

[DWSUDEKUM]

Jeff there are several things to be aware of to determine the need to change the blade to a new one.

 

1) smoke coming from the cut and or the smell of burnt wood

2) you are having to apply more pressure to get the blade to cut.

3) the project starts to chatter when you are cutting and it did not do that before

4) The wood you are cutting is hard such as - Brazilian Maple, Bamboo, Yellow Heart, Purple Heart you will need to change your blade more often.

5) You are having trouble controlling the cut.

 

Basically if you fee that the blade is getting dull then change it.

 

DW

[dgman]

Hey Jeff, I am a scroll saw instructor at Woodcraft in Ventura, Ca. I start my beginners students off cutting 3/4" pine with an Olson #5 skip tooth blade. A skip tooth blade is just what it sounds like, a tooth, a space, a tooth and so on. This is an overall good blade to start with. The #5 is a good size for 3/4" softwoods and 1/2" hardwood. As you progress, these may change for you, but this is a good starting point.

Now, when to change blades? First of all, blades are cheap. I by them by the gross. So changing blades is constant. When the blade is no longer cutting the way I want it too, it's time to change it! That means that if it lasts an hour, or last one minute, change it. Tonight, I was cutting ornaments and a blade I was using lasted an hour, but typically, 15 to 30 is normal for me.

If it is no longer cutting the way you want it too, change it.

[NC Scroller]

Scroll saw blades are to be considered as a disposable commodity like glue, paper towels, tape, and sand paper. Depending on what you are cutting a blade will have an effective life of between 5 and 20 minutes. Sure you can push them longer but you are inviting problems such as burning, stress on the saw, stress on you and cutting on a bias.

[TexasJeff]

I want to thank each and everyone of you for your comments, I found something useful in each one. I have come to the conclusion that my blade was indeed dull and that is the reason for my disappointment. I am waiting on the blades that I ordered to come in and after trying those I will give y'all and update. Dan (DGMAN) I will look for some of those Olson #5 skip blades, I am using 3/4" pine for this project, so I bet it will help out a lot. I think I need as much help as I can get.

Edited October 27, 2015 by TexasJeff

[LarryEA]

I want to thank each and everyone of you for your comments, I found something useful in each one. I have come to the conclusion that my blade was indeed dull and that is the reason for my disappointment. I am waiting on the blades that I ordered to come in and after trying those I will give y'all and update. Dan (DGMAN) I will look for some of those Olson #5 skip blades, I am using 3/4" pine for this project, so I bet it will help out a lot. I think I need as much help as I can get.

# 5 blades   Order from:

 *   Scroll Saw Blades - Sloan's Woodshop

*     The Wooden Teddy Bear, Inc.

 

Both are great places 

[MrsN]

olson blades can sometimes be found at ACE Hardware stores locally, if you don't want to wait for shipping

[Muzz]

Before I acquired my new Excallibur Scrollsaw I had a Delta Q-3 which is a C-Arm and very rough on blades, breaking them constantly If I wasn't careful with them.  My new scrollsaw is so much better at making my blades last.

 

Anyway, if you are doing some "general" cutting, not too fine work, get some Olsen PGT #5 blades.  They cut wood like butter and last forever.  I cut my Valkyrie, which is over 1m long (3feet) and consists of over 300 pieces from a single blade!  Thats not a typo!

 

  

[Sparkey]

I change the blade when I have to start pushing too hard to make the cut.

[wjbclocks1]

If you have to use a little more force tocut annd it's hard to follow a line it's time to change blades. 

[spoth28]

I go with Wayne. How hard you have to push is a good indication. Also, if you use spirals, which you probably don't, you can tell if the blade pops constantly.

[TexasJeff]

Well my new blades came in, I have a new #5 installed, just need to find some time to get in front of that saw. looking forward to trying these non pinned blades out.

[heppnerguy]

Texas Jeff,  Let us know what you found out while using the new blade.. My take is, often thicker pieces of wood like you are using can cause some frustrations. If you find that the bottom of your cuts are not matching up with the tops,well that can be a characteristic of cutting thick cuts. it the blade is low quality, or the tension is not really right, or it has some hard grain running through the wood, it can cause the blade to try and follow the grain and not stay where you think it should be.if you are doing a 3 dimensional project and you can not get it to turn out like you think it should, do not be discouraged with it. nest project pick a pattern that uses 1/2 inch or 1/2 wood and you will be amazed at how much better your results will be. what i enjoy cutting most is 1/4 inch BB ply using a #3 or #5 double tooth blade because it turns sharply but is easy to stay  in control.  Just remember you are doing this to have fun. Keeping things as simple as possible to start with, keeps the smile on your face. graduate to more complex patterns as you find that you are accomplishing what it is you want..

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[Jim Finn]

Any good scroll saw blade will give you a VERY smooth cut.  Sanding on it wourld degrade it!  SPiral blades excepted.  Your cut surface should look burnished.