Bearings for 788 Dewalt saw

[fastfreddy]

So I was watching an excellent  video by Bob Stroka on how-to- replace /repair bearings on a Dewalt 788. I did check out eparts replacement and the schematics doesn't show any bearings listed at all. Been reading about how hard it is to get some parts for certain scroll saws. Maybe I'm looking to far ahead by I'd feel better if I could locate some and buy them should I ever need them. Not planning on burning up my saw any time soon, just want to stay ahead of the game if possible. I did see one web site a member posted, VXB bearings.com and went there (they got thousands). Looks like you better have a part no. to order the right one. I'm guessing maybe a few of you guys have actually done that so if one of you has can you please post, email me some info (where to by, part nos.). My saw is running fine for now no hurry and the guy I bought it from didn't run it to much, so looks like not to much wear and tear, had it sitting around the garage, said it was about 8 years old. . Any info would be very appreciated.  Love this place.

[amazingkevin]

Two of the bearings need to be pressed out with a new bearing.The bearings in my saw were well worn and i just repacked them with synthetic valvoline grease.I got another 2 years of hard scrolling.Had i been able to get the 2 bearings out that are pressed in ,i'd still be using the saw.What a difference the car grease made .It took up all the slack and gave me a new machine.It was hard pressed to get the blade tension adjuster to go over 1.5 after the grease job.

 

So I was watching an excellent  video by Bob Stroka on how-to- replace /repair bearings on a Dewalt 788. I did check out eparts replacement and the schematics doesn't show any bearings listed at all. Been reading about how hard it is to get some parts for certain scroll saws. Maybe I'm looking to far ahead by I'd feel better if I could locate some and buy them should I ever need them. Not planning on burning up my saw any time soon, just want to stay ahead of the game if possible. I did see one web site a member posted, VXB bearings.com and went there (they got thousands). Looks like you better have a part no. to order the right one. I'm guessing maybe a few of you guys have actually done that so if one of you has can you please post, email me some info (where to by, part nos.). My saw is running fine for now no hurry and the guy I bought it from didn't run it to much, so looks like not to much wear and tear, had it sitting around the garage, said it was about 8 years old. . Any info would be very appreciated.  Love this place.

[DonR]

Here are the VXB Bearing part numbers

Kit8616 HK0609 Needle Bearing 6x10x9 TLA609Z Miniature Needle Bearings

Kit7189 HK1412 Needle Bearing 14x20x12 TLA1412Z Needle Bearings

Kit7492 HK0810 Needle Bearing 8x12x10 TLA810Z Miniature Needle Bearings

Edited June 24, 2016 by DonR

[fastfreddy]

Two of the bearings need to be pressed out with a new bearing.The bearings in my saw were well worn and i just repacked them with synthetic valvoline grease.I got another 2 years of hard scrolling.Had i been able to get the 2 bearings out that are pressed in ,i'd still be using the saw.What a difference the car grease made .It took up all the slack and gave me a new machine.It was hard pressed to get the blade tension adjuster to go over 1.5 after the grease job.

"Just repacked them with syn grease" now that's a really good idea. My light bulb upstairs hadn't clicked on that, (to be entered in my notes for future). Much appreciated advice, love the amount of wisdom on this forum.

[GrampaJim]

Here are the VXB Bearing part numbers

Kit8616 HK0609 Needle Bearing 6x10x9 TLA609Z Miniature Needle Bearings

Kit7189 HK1412 Needle Bearing 14x20x12 TLA1412Z Needle Bearings

Kit7492 HK0810 Needle Bearing 8x12x10 TLA810Z Miniature Needle Bearings

Hi Don, This may be a dumb question but do Type 1 or Type 2 Dewalts use the same part numbers?  I have a pretty old type 1 and want it to live a long life.  Thanks.

[fastfreddy]

Here are the VXB Bearing part numbers

Kit8616 HK0609 Needle Bearing 6x10x9 TLA609Z Miniature Needle Bearings

Kit7189 HK1412 Needle Bearing 14x20x12 TLA1412Z Needle Bearings

Kit7492 HK0810 Needle Bearing 8x12x10 TLA810Z Miniature Needle Bearings

 

Thank you, thank you, thank you Don. I really appreciate you taking the time to post  that information. Already in my must-have-notes. I just knew someone here had that info somewhere. I'm fairly new to the scrolling so to me that's valuable information. Amazingkevin  suggested repacking bearings if none on hand, also a great quick fix. Going to order me some soon. Said before and I'll say it again, the people this forum are amazing. Have a great day.

[CharleyL]

Well, the other posters seem to have supplied you with all of the numbers. All I can add is that I went to Dixie Bearing in Charlotte, NC to buy mine. I asked them if any better quality bearings were available as replacements for these numbers, and they gave me these "better bearings". Of course, it cost me a little more, but only about 20% more. Now, if I could only find the receipt for them I could give you the new numbers and the prices that I paid. The "better bearings" are supposed to have slightly tighter tolerances and better quality lubricants and I depended a lot on the counter person to give me these "better ones". Still, my saw seems to be much better after these bearings were installed.

 

Dixie Bearing is my local bearing distributor, but there is a similar bearing supplier in almost any major city. The Yellow Pages should help you find the one near you. Give them the numbers listed in the previous replies and ask for higher quality bearings for each. You can do the same thing with many bearing part numbers. I replaced the bearings in my Unisaw arbor with better bearings than the commonly available numbers that are listed by Delta for replacements. Tighter tolerances and type of lubricant are the most important, but type of seals are also very important when being used in dusty and dirty locations. Cheaper bearings are also frequently available, but with a lower quality of fit and lubrication. They may also be available with no dust seals or several different types of dust seals. Most will have the same part numbers, but with different suffix letters or numbers and Manufacturer codes after the part number. Only the bearing experts know the differences. 

 

Most of the bearings used in scroll saws don't rotate 360 deg  when being used. They only see back and forth rotation over just a small portion of their 360 degree capability. This is very hard on bearing life, since the lubricant in them is gradually worked out of the area being used. For some of the bearings that are used in the DeWalt 788 saws, there is a sleeve in the center of the bearing that is actually the inner race of the bearing. If you want to re-lubricate these bearings it will be necessary to remove this sleeve and then carefully apply a small amount of grease to the needles inside of the hole in the bearing, then replace the sleeve. It's also a good idea to rotate the sleeve after you replace it to distribute this new grease around the inside of the bearing and hopefully re-position the needles to a new area of the bearing so when you put the saw back together it has a new set of needles and bearing race to ride in.

 

I use a synthetic instrument grease that stays very close to  the same viscosity over it's entire life. I don't like the automotive greases for scroll saws because they tend to thicken as they age, which further leads to them being driven out of the working area of the bearings. My pint can of synthetic grease is  "Tenneco Anderol" made by Chempoint  www.chempoint.com, but your bearing distributor may have something similar that is more readily available. I've had my can around for much of my adult life and I still have about 1/2 of it left. I don't remember where it came from, but saved it from my vending machine business when I closed it down as I found it ideal for lubricating the amusement vending machines and jukeboxes. 

 

Charley

Edited June 24, 2016 by CharleyL

[fastfreddy]

Well, the other posters seem to have supplied you with all of the numbers. All I can add is that I went to Dixie Bearing in Charlotte, NC to buy mine. I asked them if any better quality bearings were available as replacements for these numbers, and they gave me these "better bearings". Of course, it cost me a little more, but only about 20% more. Now, if I could only find the receipt for them I could give you the new numbers and the prices that I paid. The "better bearings" are supposed to have slightly tighter tolerances and better quality lubricants and I depended a lot on the counter person to give me these "better ones". Still, my saw seems to be much better after these bearings were installed.

 

Dixie Bearing is my local bearing distributor, but there is a similar bearing supplier in almost any major city. The Yellow Pages should help you find the one near you. Give them the numbers listed in the previous replies and ask for higher quality bearings for each. You can do the same thing with many bearing part numbers. I replaced the bearings in my Unisaw arbor with better bearings than the commonly available numbers that are listed by Delta for replacements. Tighter tolerances and type of lubricant are the most important, but type of seals are also very important when being used in dusty and dirty locations. Cheaper bearings are also frequently available, but with a lower quality of fit and lubrication. They may also be available with no dust seals or several different types of dust seals. Most will have the same part numbers, but with different suffix letters or numbers and Manufacturer codes after the part number. Only the bearing experts know the differences. 

 

Most of the bearings used in scroll saws don't rotate 360 deg  when being used. They only see back and forth rotation over just a small portion of their 360 degree capability. This is very hard on bearing life, since the lubricant in them is gradually worked out of the area being used. For some of the bearings that are used in the DeWalt 788 saws, there is a sleeve in the center of the bearing that is actually the inner race of the bearing. If you want to re-lubricate these bearings it will be necessary to remove this sleeve and then carefully apply a small amount of grease to the needles inside of the hole in the bearing, then replace the sleeve. It's also a good idea to rotate the sleeve after you replace it to distribute this new grease around the inside of the bearing and hopefully re-position the needles to a new area of the bearing so when you put the saw back together it has a new set of needles and bearing race to ride in.

 

I use a synthetic instrument grease that stays very close to  the same viscosity over it's entire life. I don't like the automotive greases for scroll saws because they tend to thicken as they age, which further leads to them being driven out of the working area of the bearings. My pint can of synthetic grease is  "Tenneco Anderol" made by Chempoint  www.chempoint.com, but your bearing distributor may have something similar that is more readily available. I've had my can around for much of my adult life and I still have about 1/2 of it left. I don't remember where it came from, but saved it from my vending machine business when I closed it down as I found it ideal for lubricating the amusement vending machines and jukeboxes. 

 

Charley

Thanks for the info Charlie, going to make a note about the Dixie bearings. A second place to buy is always welcomed.Don't rotate 360 deg. new to me, taught they did and like the rotate sleeves after greasing. Much appreciated.

[Lucky2]

Fred, your fretting over something that may never happen. I know of lots of scrollers who have never had to change-out a bearing on their saws. Plus, even if it does happen to need a new bearing, it wouldn't take all that long to get one. And if the bearing is going bad, you'll know about it in lots of time to order a new one. If your anything like me, you'll lose the replacement bearing before you used it. Stop fretting and enjoy your saw, you may never have a bearing issue.

Len

Edited June 25, 2016 by Lucky2

[fastfreddy]

Fred, your fretting over something that may never happen. I know of lots of scrollers who have never had to change-out a bearing on their saws. Plus, even if it does happen to need a new bearing, it wouldn't take all that long to get one. And if the bearing is going bad, you'll know about it in lots of time to order a new one. If your anything like me, you'll lose the replacement bearing before you used it. Stop fretting and enjoy your saw, you may never have a bearing issue.

Len

That's all I'm doing right now is playing and enjoying my new toy. In no rush to work on it, and not pushing it. I just really love this saw (788 Dewalt) and would rather replace parts then to move up. Saw fits me perfect. Found it a little funny you used the word fretting, that's the kind of scrolling I'm really interested in right now, but do plan on experimenting with other arts/crafts. I'll stop worrying but not fretting, LOL.

[CharleyL]

Don't bother remembering Dixie Bearing either. Do a Yellow Page search for Bearings and you will find a bearing distributor near you. It doesn't matter if their name is Dixie Bearing or not, but Dixie has a few stores in the Southeast. Other places have bearing distributors under many different names. Just find the bearing store near you, take your list or the old bearings, and they will help you get new ones. If you ask if there are tighter tolerance bearings of the same size I'm certain that they will have them too. Then it's up to you to decide if the extra money for the better bearings is worth it. Mine were about 20% more than the original replacements.

 

My main reason for posting was to help you find bearings that are better than what is in your saw, and cheaper than what DeWalt wants for them. Also, long after DeWalt and ereplacements.com stop carrying replacements for these bearings, you will still be able to get them. from these sources. This is true for all kinds of bearings, and not just limited to your DeWalt 788. For most bearings, there are also several manufacturers, some better than others. When you deal with a bearing specialty, they will know which is best for quality, which is cheapest, and which has the tightest tolerances. Also, which manufacturer has the best quality control. Don't settle for just replacements. Tell them what you want, and you will get better bearings.

 

Charley

[fastfreddy]

Don't bother remembering Dixie Bearing either. Do a Yellow Page search for Bearings and you will find a bearing distributor near you. It doesn't matter if their name is Dixie Bearing or not, but Dixie has a few stores in the Southeast. Other places have bearing distributors under many different names. Just find the bearing store near you, take your list or the old bearings, and they will help you get new ones. If you ask if there are tighter tolerance bearings of the same size I'm certain that they will have them too. Then it's up to you to decide if the extra money for the better bearings is worth it. Mine were about 20% more than the original replacements.

 

My main reason for posting was to help you find bearings that are better than what is in your saw, and cheaper than what DeWalt wants for them. Also, long after DeWalt and ereplacements.com stop carrying replacements for these bearings, you will still be able to get them. from these sources. This is true for all kinds of bearings, and not just limited to your DeWalt 788. For most bearings, there are also several manufacturers, some better than others. When you deal with a bearing specialty, they will know which is best for quality, which is cheapest, and which has the tightest tolerances. Also, which manufacturer has the best quality control. Don't settle for just replacements. Tell them what you want, and you will get better bearings.

 

Charley

Excellent information Charley, "better then original with tighter tolerance" would probably last me a life time. Just starting out doing lots of research and having lots of fun. LIke the don't settle for just replacements. I will do a my homework before hand. Thanks and happy scrolling. 

[TerryM]

I just went through the bearing replacement process and found removal and replacement to be straight forward without special tools. One thing to note is the bearing list has one incorrect quantity and that is for the HK0810 bearing; the number should be qty 3. One in each front rocker assy, and one in the control rod assy at the rear. I have a type 2 saw.

A note on removing the back-to-back bearings: these both can be pressed out from the same side since the casting is finished from one side to the other, you just need a longer tool.

Installing and removing bearings can be accomplished using a vise or drill press vise with protective jaw coverings or using a drill press with the appropriately sized tool.

[Mike Williams]

Thanks for the quantity on the HK0810. I haven’t taken my DW788 (type 1) apart yet. Could you please tell me the quantity required for the other 2 bearings sizes? HK0609 and HK1412. Many thanks

[OCtoolguy]

Also pay attention to the sleeves when doing this job. When I did mine I was prepared to buy a whole set of bearings and sleeves. Luckily I had no bad ones. Examine the sleeves for wear marks. If they are not grooved or overly shiney, chances are good that the bearings are not bad. Try to wipe as much of the old grease out of the bearings with pipe cleaners but DO NOT wash them in solvent. Once you do that grease will never stick to the bearings and they will quickly wear out. Just give them a good packing of synthetic grease and reassemble. You'll be amazed at how much quieter and smoother the saw will be.

[Joe W.]

5 hours ago, OCtoolguy said:

DO NOT wash them in solvent.

Good to know!

I'm writing that down.