Fixing patterns.

[BigD]

Just a quick one.

I've been drawing, tracing my patterns onto the work piece. I've seen a member here with the pattern printed out then stuck onto the work piece and just cutting it through the pattern.

How do you affix your pattern/template and what adhesive is best?

[WayneMahler]

I cover mine with blue painters tape. Then spray the pattern back with 3m 77 then attach the pattern, drill my holes and go to cutting. I'm sure you get more answers and different ideas and opinions. I just know this works for me

[lawson56]

I myself use carbon paper.I just use scotch tape.trace over the pattern.And go from there.It may take a little longer.but it works for me.

[MTCowpoke22]

I use whatever spray adhesive I can get, normally whatever Menards, Home Depot, or Ace is selling. I don't have any preferences on a brand, they all seem to work about the same. I spray the wood directly and after about 30 seconds apply the pattern directly to the wood. Seems to work alright. I use mineral spirits to get it off when I'm done cutting. If I've been too generous with the adhesive, it can be a bitch to get the pattern up.  

[Ctutor]

I use xyron. The stuff that scrapbookers use. I print out the pattern run it through the xyron and stick it to the wood. when finished I either heat it and peel it off or if I use the removable type it peels right off. Sometimes I cover the xyron with packing tape. I seems to lubricate the cutting. Runs about $20 for fifty feet.

[Sycamore67]

I love the blue tape plus 3M77.

[Scrappile]

From the mouth of the owner of this forum:

 

[crupiea]

I use a super light coat of spray glue, super light. just barely and i mean barely tacky.  then i just put it on the wood.

 

if its too much it will be impossible to get off.

 

 

[Scrolling Steve]

I have done this several ways since i started scrolling two and a half years ago......Now, and I got this here on the forum, I put either 3m 45 or 3m 77 on the pattern and apply the pattern to the wood...then i use mineral sprites to remove...Works for me!

[trackman]

Put blue painters tape on wood than I do something different than most. I spray the tape NOT the paper. This way you don't get glue on your hands. Cover with clear package tape. Cut pattern pull tapes off no mess with cleaners.

[Lucky2]

Dave, I use a spray adhesive made by Elmer's, it is a repositionable mist glue. I spray the back of the pattern with this glue, then I leave it laying where it is for about twenty seconds or so for the glue to set-up. After the glue has started to dry just a bit, I then apply the pattern to the wood. Some people use painters tape over the wood, before placing the pattern. Personally, I've never found the need to do so, the pattern lifts off of the cutting easy enough for me. Whatever you do, don't apply the spray glue to the wood and pattern, apply it to the pattern only. If you do spray both, you'll have a very hard time removing the pattern from the cutting.

Len

[amazingkevin]

Normally i just spray the pattern and smooth it on the wood.Special things like a dollar bill puzzle I'll use blue painters tape,makes for an easy clean up.

[Old Joe]

I've been taping the wood with packing tape, and using 3-M lightly on tape and the pattern.I have recently started applying salt to the tape with a standard salt shaker before applying the pattern as it minimizes slippage.

Edited August 3, 2016 by Old Joe

[Phantom Scroller]

I print them off and use a re-positional spray adhesive on to the pattern stick it onto the wood and put 2" sellotape on top works every time and easy to remove. Roly

Edited August 3, 2016 by Phantom Scroller

[BigD]

Thanks everyone. Love the idea of blue tape then sticking the pattern to that. Sounds like the easiest removal method and might stop sop of the fine edge splintering. Will try that next time.

I'm presuming by blue tape, it's just a low tack decorators tape, in the uk we just call it masking tape mainly.

 

Just watched the video clip and that's cleared that up. Brilliant.

Edited August 3, 2016 by BigD

[NC Scroller]

In the U.S. not all painters tape is equal and that is not a social statement. You want the clean release tape. Also you want to finish your projects within a couple days as the tape is harder to remove over time. While I use painters tape on some projects I never use it on plywood or fret work as you often get wood grain lift off when removing from plywood and I have broken delicate fret sections peeling tape.

Edited August 3, 2016 by NC Scroller

[Iguanadon]

I'm cheap and because I use so much of it, instead of using blue painters tape, I use this... common shelf paper, then spray adhesive to adhere the pattern to it.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002AS9NC6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Edited August 3, 2016 by Iguanadon

[Old Joe]

From Mike's Workshop:

 

By using 2" clear package tape you will eliminate most burning.  Especially in wood with oil (like Purple Heart) and very hard wood.  We like to first put the pattern on the wood and then put tape over the pattern. Some like to put it on the wood first.  It is all up to the individual. Some might even use a different tape but most like to use the package tape.

It is almost like the tape lubricates the blade.  Not quite.  The tape has a chemical that is like a Silicone and releases friction.  If this chemical would not be on top of the tape, you never would be able to un-roll the tape from itself.

[MrsN]

I use a layer of painters tape, then glue the paper to the tape using general school/craft glue sticks. I like having a method that I can use indoors without getting high.

[Bill WIlson]

I use painters tape, if I'm stack cutting or cutting hard, thick stock.  Otherwise, if I'm cutting something out of 1/4" or less, I don't bother with it.  Like many others, I use spray adhesive.  I've used several brands and have no particular preference, so I go by price.  I can get Loctite brand spray at Lowes for less than $5 a can and it works just like the expensive stuff.  No matter what I use or how much I use, it comes off easily by spritzing on some mineral spirits.  May take a little time to soak in, but the patterns will practically fall off by themselves.  I actually prefer applying the pattern directly to the wood.  It seems to come off easier than the painters tape for me.  The tape leaves a lot of little bits behind, because it isn't all one piece, like a paper pattern.  Often I can pull the entire pattern off in one piece.  Never happens with the tape.  And don't use mineral spirits to remove the tape.  It makes a gummy mess.

[Greenie]

I learned a long time ago that blue painters tape is the way to go

[CharleyL]

Most of my scrolling for the past few years has been compound cut (3D) scrolling. Since all of the outside pieces of wood will be discarded, I've been using common stationery store rubber cement to bond the laser printed paper patterns to the wood. It holds well and is relatively low cost and can be removed with mineral spirits, but since all of the outside pieces of wood get discarded when compound cutting, I never have to remove it.

 

At the other end of the price scale is Applique Film. It's a clear mylar sheet that can be laser or photo copier printed that has a sticky back (peel and stick) that is re-positionable several times before it will no longer stick. I buy it at an art supply store. I use it when scrolling and power carving because I frequently use pieces of patterns printed on this film and stuck on the wood in close or adjoining relationship to each other. I can cut or carve through it and then just use my finger nails to lift and peel the remainder off the wood. It leaves no residue behind, but it costs about $70 for a box of 100 sheets of 8 1/2 X 11" size. For me and my carvings, this is well worth it for it's ease of use, but I don't use it for everything because of it's cost.

 

Has anyone tried printing a mirror image of their pattern (most printer software will let you do this) with a laser printer and then ironed the image face down directly onto the wood?

 

If you use a laser printer  and can get dark clear pattern lines, this technique works quite well. Attach the pattern face down along one edge with tape so you can lift (hinge it up) to check for any missed spots and replace the sheet perfectly aligned so you can re-iron the missed areas. You may need to do this several times to get the complete pattern transferred. One of the small hobbyist irons or a traveler's compact iron works well for this and I use this technique occasionally. The toner used in laser printers and photo copiers is a high temperature black wax in very fine powder form. It melts easily at about 250 deg and transfers from the paper to the wood. Wintergreen oil applied to the wood or through the paper is a non heat method that some (but not me) have used to transfer laser printed patterns with moderate success, but neither of these seem to work very well for the very fine detailed patterns. I like to experiment with new ways of doing things. Sometimes they work well and sometimes they don't. Practicing something that seems to work can sometimes make it a great new method. These fall into this category.

 

Charley 

[ike]

I have tried all of the above. i do mostly fretwork That leaves little bits of wood with the pattern on it, which is a pain to remove. for my train engin and my nativity  scenes it is a problem. i found Elmer's  multi-poise spry adhesive.  apply medium amount to the pattern apply directly to the wood. When you remove the pattern apply a light coat of taint thinner to the pattern and it peals off easily, I can only find it at Hobby Lobby

IKE.

Edited August 4, 2016 by ike

[BigD]

Some fantastic tips there. I like the idea of the laser prints ironed directly to wood but I only have inkjet printers. Might look into the photo copy option though, or maybe invest in a laser printer after a few tries.

[LarryEA]

G-O-L-L-Y ... e-v-e-r-b-o-d-y has a way...  x-spermint...

I like my way  ....  use Glad Press n Seal ...spray glue and 2" clear package tape