At what angle do you cut an inlay ?

[LarryEA]

In the Scroll Saw Woodworking Crafts Fall 2013 Issue 52 there are plans for wildlife cutting boards.

The plans are a double layer board. Top layer is where inlay fits and then sandwiched or glued to

a bottom board.

I have a couple questions for those who have done inlays.

These are silhouettes of moose,wolf, & bear to be the inlays.

* At what  angle should the board and silhouette be cut?  (Directions say 2 1/2 to 3 degrees)

* Can I use Mahogany for the silhouette?

 

Thanks ya'll

 

Larry

 

[browders]

I'm not really sure. The only one I tried, was 1/2" stock at 6 degrees. The inset ended up about 1/8" below the rest of the piece. Next time I'll try something closer to 10.

[Jim Finn]

I have done hundreds of inlays.  I use 3/8" cedar and inlay 3/8" soft maple into it.  I also use have used oak, walnut, and maple.  I have used mahogany a few times also.  I have one of my scroll saws set to 2.2 degrees, approximately, that I use only for inlays.  I set my angle with a Wixie but you can also do it by trail and error and it is just as good a way to do it.  Stack the two woods you want to use, scraps.  Do some trial cuts starting at 2 degrees and adjusting up until you get the fit needed.  Start at the edge and cut out the shape of a mushroom, freehand, and see how it fits.  With the table tilted down on the left of the blade and keeping the image you want to inlay to the right of the blade make your mushroom cut and see how well the bottom wood fits into the upper wood after it is cut.  If it will not go all the way up you need to lessen the angle and if the bottom wood comes up to high you need to sharpen the angle closer to 3 degrees.  I move mine about two tenths of a degree at a time.  Remember a little too loose a fit is better than too tight a fit.  I inlay into cedar mostly and if it is too tight a fit and I try hammering it in place with a plastic hammer I split the cedar.  Perfect fit can be attained with many trial and error mushrooms.  I leave most of mine just a little loose and fill any slight gaps with a mixture of white glue and sanding powder of the base wood. Cedar in my case.  I use Flying Dutchman Polar #5 blades but whatever you use be consistent.  PM  me if you would like more clarification on this.

[heppnerguy]

Your advise about doing inlay is so good. I was pretty darn accurate by following it that I amazed myself. I just copied and printed the above direction and I will post it in my shop as a quick refference fo the next inlay that I attempt. Thanks, once more , Jim for helping the rest of us with our inlay efforts, you are the best

 

Dick

heppnerguy

[gator]

have never done a inlay but feel i am now ready thanks for the info, Jim and i too just copied and pasted  for reference also

[amazingkevin]

 i'm with you guys .looks like better money to be had plus another notch in my belt.Different tricks come in handy to fix boo boo's at times among other things.great info.i have a customer for the inlay of felis navidad !wish me luck!  

[Jim Finn]

Yes,  there is money to be had in doing inlay.  I sell inlaid boxes about 100 to one  (IN dollars) compared to intarsia and lettering.

   If you want more info and photos of this inlay process send me a message with your email address and I will send them to you.

................... You can put in interior lines also, giving much more detail to your images.  Like this one

[LarryEA]

Jim, Thank you!

[spirithorse]

Great answer, Jim, and I have seen some of your beautiful work.

I think the only item that you may have omitted from your explanation is

the angle will change with the thickness of the stock. In other words, if

2 1/2 degrees works on 3/8" stock, that angle will probably have to be

adjusted if you go to 1/2" or 3/4" stock.

God Bless! Spirithorse