dewalt 788 blade problem

[Dennis Key]

I have a dewalt dw788... I recently was working on a project the wood stock was 1" thick and I noticed that the cuts were slightly cone shaped ...I checked my table for  squareness side to side  and it was square... I checked  the squareness from front to back and it was out of square ... the bottom of the blade slightly back or the top went slightly forward unsure of which is there an adjustment I can make either in the saw or the table to correct this any help will be appreciated

 

[Multifasited]

Check tention ,Blade flex .and side pressure ,light ever pressure on the blade only toward the blades cutting teeth .allow time for the saw dust to be cleared as you cut ,slow steady,even pressue only toward the teeth ,side pressure and less tention cause cone shape ,by bowing the blade .IMHO

 

This is in my opinion the major cause of most frequante problems with all cutting problems related to scroll saw ,the blade is so fine and is effected most by unintended forces from operater hurry !!

Edited April 23, 2014 by Multifasited

[Jim Finn]

I agree.  When cutting thick material on any saw, you need to feed at a snails pace or the blade will flex and give you a curved cut.  Lots of blade tension also.

[amazingkevin]

A blade with 16 or less teeth should cut it up nicely,the harder the wood the less teeth you need to move thru it .

[jrpeteo]

I have a dewalt dw788... I recently was working on a project the wood stock was 1" thick and I noticed that the cuts were slightly cone shaped ...I checked my table for  squareness side to side  and it was square... I checked  the squareness from front to back and it was out of square ... the bottom of the blade slightly back or the top went slightly forward unsure of which is there an adjustment I can make either in the saw or the table to correct this any help will be appreciated

Dennis, I had this same issue, brand new saw. All the way through the stroke the top of the blade was forward of the bottom. I found info on Steve Goods site and tried this. It worked very well, blade is 90º front to back now. Raise the back of the table, for me is was 1/4". Made this out of walnut and a 3/8" dowel. I will be haveing a friend make a better one out of metal, but this works fine.

Good luck!

Pete

[Multifasited]

I just used a slotted aluminum tracks and the original pc. ,That cure frt .to back ,but the blade flex and pressure still exist in causing the bow ,fixes tight straight corners ,and the gallop in sawing ,but not the in and out bowing ,thicker wood moves the bow ,because all the cut is not in the center of the blade less flex at top more at bottom ,needing time to catch up back to straight ,before turning or cornering .IMHO

[Dennis Key]

Dennis, I had this same issue, brand new saw. All the way through the stroke the top of the blade was forward of the bottom. I found info on Steve Goods site and tried this. It worked very well, blade is 90º front to back now. Raise the back of the table, for me is was 1/4". Made this out of walnut and a 3/8" dowel. I will be haveing a friend make a better one out of metal, but this works fine.

Good luck!

Pete

thanks to everybody for their help ... Pete I think that is what my problem is the table isn't square with the table  my blade is out of square when it is not turned on again thanks to all and God Bless