Travis

Scroll saw blades break. It happens to all of us. And when it does, it scares the bejesus out of me. When a blade breaks mid-cut, it’s not only surprising but also frustrating, especially if it interrupts the flow of your project. However, understanding the reasons behind blade breakage can help you avoid this problem and keep your projects on track. Here is a list of common reasons why scroll saw blades break and their solution. Enjoy! Improper Tension Getting the tension just right can be a bit of a Goldilocks situation—too loose, and the blade will bend and flex, causing uneven cuts and eventual breakage. Too tight, and you’re risking a snap, especially on harder materials. Solution: Adjust the tension so it is firm and doesn’t deflect much when you apply pressure to the side of the blade. You can also gently pluck the blade like a guitar string. If you get a clear "ping" sound you’re good to go. Here's how it sounds on my saw: blade_sound.mp3 Excessive Pressure It is tempting to push the wood through faster to save time, but scroll saw blades aren’t fans of being rushed. This adds strain and can cause overheating, which wears out the blade quicker. You may also be adding pressure to the side of the blade without even realizing it. Solution: Relax and let the blade do its thing! Use a light, steady hand and let the saw do the work. Imagine guiding a knife through butter— no extra effort is needed. Your cuts will come out smoother, and your blade will last longer. Sometimes you don’t even realize you’re adding excess pressure. What I do is release the pressure on my workpiece from time to time to see if the workpiece springs back. This is especially helpful to see if I’m adding side pressure. Dull Blades Blades don’t last forever. A dull blade struggles to cut, requiring more pressure and increasing the chances of snapping. You might notice your cuts looking fuzzy or uneven. Solution: Keep an eye on performance. If you find yourself pushing harder or the edges of your cuts start to look rough, swap out the blade. For me, I’ll use a new scroll saw blade every time I start a project. It’s common to use several during a project, depending on the complexity and materials I’m working with. Blade Selection Using the wrong blade for your project is like wearing flip-flops on a hike—it’s just not a good fit. Fine-toothed blades struggle with thick wood, and coarse blades can be over-aggressive for delicate work. Solution: First and foremost, you’ll want quality scroll saw blades. The hardware store variety usually arn’t very good. You’re better off buying quality blades from someone who specializes in scroll sawing. Don’t worry, they are not very expensive. Popular brands are Flying Dutchman, Pégas, and Olson. From there, match the blade to the job. For thicker woods, go with a blade that has fewer teeth per inch (TPI) to handle the strain. A skip tooth configuration will help with clearing out the sawdust from the kerf. For intricate designs or thinner materials, a higher TPI works well. Blade packaging usually provides guidelines—don’t skip reading it! Here are my go-tos: Thin Materials (⅛” - 1/2”) - Flying Dutchman #3 Scroll Reverse. This will also work with ¾” softer material such as pine and poplar. Thicker Materials (¾” and dense material) - Flying Dutchman #5 Scroll Reverse or Flying Dutchman #9 Scroll Reverse if I don’t need the detail. Overheating Friction is the enemy. Cutting thick or dense materials without pauses can make the blade overheat, weakening it to the point of snapping. Solution: Adding a layer of either masking or packing tape to your workpiece will act as a blade lubricant and can make a big difference. It will also help reduce burning on susceptible woods such as cherry. Depending on the thickness and density of your material, sometimes the blade has a tough time clearing out the sawdust. This will cause the cut to take longer and heat up. In this case, look for a skip tooth blade If you’re tackling thick wood, adjust the speed to reduce friction. Misalignment A crooked blade is bad news. Misalignment puts uneven stress on the blade, making it more likely to break. This often happens if the blade isn’t seated properly or the clamps are overtightened. Solution: Before starting, make sure the blade is perfectly straight and aligned with the saw’s table. The teeth should face forward and down. Tighten the clamps snugly but not so much that you risk bending the blade. Regularly check alignment as you work. You can also check the positions of the set screws in the blade clamps. Make sure the blade is seated nicely between the set screws and not being crimped. What did I miss? If I missed anything or if you have any suggestions that would help new scrollers, please leave it in the comments below!

When making cutting boards, utensils, bowls, or any project that will come into contact with food, choosing the right finish is important. A good, food-safe finish does more than enhance the appearance of the wood, it protects the wood from moisture, stains, and bacteria. Here are a few food-safe finishing options to enhance your next project: 1. Mineral Oil Mineral oil is a popular choice for its price and ease of use. It can be found in most pharmacies. This is non-toxic and odorless and will penetrate deeply into the wood, enhancing its natural grain while providing a protective barrier. Regular reapplication is necessary to maintain the finish, especially for cutting boards and butcher blocks. When it starts looking dull, add another coat or two until it no longer accepts any more mineral oil. 2. Beeswax Beeswax is often used in combination with mineral oil to create a soft, food-safe finish. It provides a natural sheen and a bit more durability than oil alone. You can even make your own blend by carefully melting 1 part beeswax into 4 parts mineral oil. Once it cools for a DIY wood conditioner. 3. Walnut Oil Walnut oil is a natural option known for its ability to harden over time. However, it’s worth noting that some people have nut allergies, so this finish might not be suitable for all applications. So make sure whoever the recipient is, does not have a nut allergy. It probably isn’t suitable for baby or children’s toys, either, for the same reason. 4. Tung Oil Pure tung oil is derived from the seeds of the tung tree and is a durable food-safe finish once it has fully cured. However, it may take several days to fully cure. But it will create a long-lasting natural finish. Apply a thin and even coat, then remove any excess. Let the oil cure for 24-48 hours before adding another coat. Appling 3-4 layers will give your project a nice protection and sheen. 5. Shellac Shellac is a natural resin secreted by the lac bug. It may sound gross, but this traditional finish has been used for over 3,000 years and is often applied in fine woodworking projects because it enhances the wood grain and provides a glossy and durable finish. It is particularly useful for decorative items like bowls and serving trays. Shellac resin is dissolved in alcohol and can either be sprayed or brushed on with several thin coats. 6. Carnauba Wax Carnauba wax is derived from palm leaves and is a hard, durable wax that’s often used in conjunction with other finishes. It creates a high-gloss, water-resistant surface, which is ideal for utensils and other projects that come in contact with food. To apply, warm the carnauba wax before rubbing it into the surface. You can use a double boiler to gently melt the wax. Then apply the melted or softened wax to your project with a paper towel. Once it cools, you can buff the wax with a clean rag to a nice sheen. 7. Butcher Block Conditioner I like using an off-the-shelf solution such as Butcher Block Conditioner. You can find this at most home improvement stores, or here online. This formula is nothing more than a blend of mineral oil, bees wax, and carnauba wax. But, I like the convenience of having it ready to apply to my project. I simply apply a liberal amount to my project and let it sit for 20 minutes. Then I wipe the excess off with a clean paper towel and buff it to a nice sheen. When my project starts looking dull or dry, I apply another coat. Tips for Applying Food-Safe Finishes Clean Thoroughly: Ensure the wood is clean and sanded smooth before applying any finish. Apply Thin Coats: Build up the finish gradually to avoid uneven application. Let It Cure: Allow adequate time for curing, especially for finishes like tung oil or shellac, to ensure they are safe for contact with food. Re-apply As Needed: Regularly re-apply finishes like mineral oil and beeswax to maintain protection. By selecting the right food-safe finish, you can protect your scroll-sawn projects while keeping them safe for everyday use. Experiment with these options to find the perfect match for your project! What are your favorite food-safe finishes? Share in the comments below!